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TOURISM

Good tourist, bad tourist: How to travel responsibly in Spain

“The problem is we’re hypocrites, and think it’s someone else who has to solve the problem,” argues tourism academic Bartolomé Deyá. So what can holidaymakers in Spain do at a time when tourists are getting an increasingly bad reputation?

Good tourist, bad tourist: How to travel responsibly in Spain
An anti-tourism sticker near Park Guell in Barcelona. (Photo by PAU BARRENA / AFP)

Barcelona resident David Mar doesn’t travel, but he thinks about tourism every day. 

Tourists crowd the buses — essential for movement in a hilly neighbourhood like his. They leave trash for residents to discover in the morning. They shout and sing at night and wander drunkenly through the residential streets, ambling into backyards and pulling down laundry on clotheslines

“It’s a disturbance that goes from when you wake up in the morning until you go to bed at night,” he told The Local Spain. “You don’t feel welcome in your own neighbourhood.” 

Mar lives in Turó de la Rovira, on a 262-metre hill that towers over the city.  

A viewpoint atop the hill called Los Bunkers de Carmel has gone viral on TikTok for its sweeping city views, bringing hordes of tourists to come drink wine, watch the sunset, and sometimes party into the early morning. 

READ ALSO: Barcelona removes route from Google Maps to keep tourists off local bus

But for the residents of the surrounding Carmel neighbourhood — among Barcelona’s poorest — the consequences of this tourist explosion have been severe. 

Mar was involved in a physical altercation with a group of four Australians, after he confronted them for tipping over parked motorcycles. 

And last June a 76 year-old man was assaulted by a group of seven English-speaking youths after he tried to stop them from jumping a fence that had been put up around the Bunkers.

Such events are commonplace in Carmel, Mar says, with the post-pandemic massification of tourism provoking an unstoppable flow of Instagram-like-hungry travellers, fuelled by an increasingly lucrative industry whose interests often conflict with those of local residents. 

“It collides directly with the most basic rights of those who live here,” Mar says. “Our right to housing, our right to transportation, our right to rest peacefully.”

With some 1.3 billion international arrivals globally in 2023, more people are travelling for pleasure than ever before in human history.

READ ALSO: Spain’s tourism earnings seen hitting new record despite growing anger

But as excessive crowds stress infrastructure and locals find themselves pushed out of their own communities, prevailing attitudes towards travel must be reconsidered if global tourism is to continue growing sustainably. 

“Tourism isn’t a right, it’s a decision that you make,” Mar says. “And if you do it, you must be aware of the consequences it can generate.” 

A couple uses a selfie stick to take a picture next to a banner warning tourists on drought alert in Catalonia, near Sagrada Familia basilica in Barcelona. (Photo by PAU BARRENA / AFP)

Empathy abroad 

Bartolomé Deyá Tortella, a researcher and the Dean of Tourism Faculty at the University of the Balearic Islands, says few tourists consider such consequences. 

Instead, they embrace their inner hedonist and focus their vacation time on maximum pleasure for minimum price. This mindset might cause a tourist to forget their values and do things they’d never do at home. 

“We all become capitalists when we practice tourism,” Deyá told The Local. “You think, ‘I paid for this, I’m on vacation, I’m having my moment of pleasure, I worked the whole year for it.”

Such thinking could explain why someone might respect quiet hours in their own neighbourhoods, but shout drunkenly in the streets late at night while on vacation.

READ ALSO: Why does hatred of tourists in Spain appear to be on the rise?

Or why on a trip to Mallorca, where Deyá lives and works, a tourist might feel compelled to take a 10-minute shower — despite the water-stressed Mediterranean island’s near-drought conditions — while residents routinely shower in a minute or less. 

Failure to consider saving water or respecting quiet hours comes down to lack of empathy, Deyá says, and our tendency to other the people whose communities we enter while traveling. 

“Act as if you were in your own home,” he says. “If when you’re in your own city you don’t shout in the street because you know your neighbours are sleeping, why do it when you’re traveling?” 

Social sustainability 

Much has been said about environmental sustainability, but it’s easy to forget the social impacts of travel; how our interactions with local people and economies can change that society. 

“When every one of us travels, it implies that the places where we came from are transformed, the places we pass through are transformed, and obviously, so are the places we arrive to,” Manuel de la Calle Vaquero, Vicedean of the Faculty of Commerce and Tourism at Complutense University of Madrid, told The Local Spain.

With this in mind, the most sustainable way to travel is by using one’s presence to positively impact the local community. 

Or in other words, to leave a place better than you found it. 

“When you jump on a plane, it’s important to make sure that trip counts for something positive,” says Justin Francis, founder of Responsible Travel, a holiday company that collaborates with local partners to plan socially and environmentally sustainable vacations.

“I advise people to fly less, keep short trips flight-free – and, when you do fly, stay in a place longer and travel in a way that does as much good as possible,” Francis says. 

Anti-gentrification banners addressing were already hanging from balconies in Barcelona back in 2017. (Photo by Josep LAGO / AFP)

Neighbourhood colonisers

One of the most significant ways in which tourism can alter the social landscape is through accommodation.  

Not long ago, tourists and residents in Spain did not typically mix, with tourists sticking near their hotels, rarely straying into residential zones, Deyá says.

But today’s tourist has matured, and now expects novelty; an “authentic” experience that they can convince themselves distinguishes them from the thousands of other tourists expecting the same.

Nowadays they live among residents, in apartments instead of hotels, utilizing short-term rental platforms like Airbnb, which has led to the dissolution of boundaries between a city’s tourist and local zones. 

Vaquero describes this new kind of tourist as the “anti-tourism” tourist, in the sense that they’re not interested in the sort of tourism promoted by governments and travel agencies, but instead consider themselves the explorers of new “authentic” destinations outside the typical tourist sphere. 

“The one who wants to leave the traditional tourist circuit and supposedly goes looking for ‘authentic’ neighbourhoods — that tourist is obviously the coloniser,” Vaquero says. 

The boom in short-term vacation rentals has led to what’s been dubbed the “Airbnb effect” in neighbourhoods worldwide, in which residents are slowly replaced by a constant flux of tourists. For landlords, vacation rentals can be far more lucrative than renting to residents, thus incentivizing them to evict long-term tenants in order to list their properties on Airbnb.

READ ALSO: Who really owns all the Airbnb-style lets in Spain?

This is exactly what happened to Emanuele Dal Carlo. His landlord didn’t want to renew the lease on his small Venice apartment because they could make more renting it out on Airbnb. Like so many other Venetians, Dal Carlo had to move to the mainland. 

To better understand the cultural erosion he saw happening to his city as a result of Airbnb, Dal Carlo enlisted the help of researchers to conduct a study, through which he discovered only 2,000 of the 3,300 Airbnbs in the city were registered with the government, and many were rented by foreign hosts with zero connection to Venice.

This means that much of the money tourists spend on accommodation never lands on the ground, thus eliminating any potential benefit to the local economy. 

READ ALSO: Spain urges regions to limit Airbnb-style lets in ‘stressed rental areas’

“What’s wrong is that the money available from tourism is not fairly distributed between workers and residents,” Dal Carlo says. 

Dal Carlo now runs Fairbnb, an ethical Airbnb alternative which promotes “community-powered tourism.” Hosts are certified local, and the platform fees are put directly towards a social project in the local community, like food redistribution or sustainable energy initiatives. 

As a tourist, the best way to avoid feeding the problem is by avoiding short term rentals when possible, Dal Carlo says, and instead booking accommodations with local businesses, like small independent hotels or traditional bed and breakfasts. 

And if you absolutely must use Airbnb, Dal Carlo suggests booking with local hosts. 

“If you’re traveling to Venice and your host is from Finland, ask yourself some questions,” he says. 

An elderly local man on crutches waits to cross as a group of tourists using Segways squeeze by and into the narrow streets of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter. (Photo by PAU BARRENA / AFP)

Whose fault? 

In Spain, anti-tourism protests have crescendoed in recent weeks. The travel industry, it seems, has grown beyond its means, and locals are taking note. 

To some degree, the problem can be traced to poor planning on the part of local governments and the unchecked expansion of algorithmic platforms like Airbnb.

Deyá points out that many government entities in Spain have welcomed tourist money, pursuing marketing campaigns without investing in adequate preparation.

“Tourism is the typical sector where many governments say, ‘ok, let’s leave it, because this works. Don’t touch it,’” Deyá says. “But there’s been no planning, there’s been no strategy.”

READ ALSO: Where in Spain do locals ‘hate’ tourists?

Back in Barcelona, the city’s public transport authority was involved in the promotion of the Carmel bunkers through its Bus Turistic webpage, encouraging tourists to come see the “spectacular views over Barcelona.” 

The promotion was taken down on April 16th after continued anti-tourism protests from the Turó de la Rovira neighbourhood council, of which Mar is a member. 

READ ALSO: Barcelona restricts access to popular sunset viewpoint to stop tourist parties

But as is the case with so many industries in a crowded world full of contradictions, the individual cannot be absolved of all responsibility, as one’s choice to participate in harmful systems enables their continuation. 

No law or tourist tax will compel tourists to act with empathy, and the absence of such regulations should not be used to justify one’s bad behaviour abroad. 

“The problem is that we’re hypocrites, and we think that it’s someone else who has to solve the problem,” Deyá says. 

Mar, who’s never been much of a traveller himself, is no longer interested in traveling internationally after seeing what tourism has done to his city. 

“So much of my city has become inhospitable for residents,” he says. “Because we’re truly suffering from it here in Barcelona, the concept of tourism disgusts me more and more.” 

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BARCELONA

The most affordable areas to live in and around Barcelona

It’s well known that Barcelona is one of the most expensive cities to live in Spain, and becoming more and more costly every year. There are however still areas that are much more affordable than others in 2024, writes Barcelona-based Esme Fox.

The most affordable areas to live in and around Barcelona

The average rental price in Barcelona now, according to property portal Idealista, is €21.1 / m2 which will set you back around €1,235 per month. And if you want to buy somewhere, you’ll be paying an average of €4,317 /m2.

So are there still any affordable areas left to live in around the city? The good news is that there definitely are, even within a 20-30 minute journey of the very centre.

The bad news, however, is that while some of them are nice spots away from the tourist zones, several of them are cheaper because they’re undesirable, unattractive or have social issues with relatively high crime rates.

We’ve listed 10 of the most affordable neighbourhoods in and around the city, what you can expect from them, which places are the best and which are best avoided.

Santa Coloma de Gramenet

Santa Coloma lies just to the northeast of Barcelona across the River Besòs and is actually considered a separate town, even though it’s on the Barcelona metro system and has very good connections with the city. It is in fact one of the cheapest places to live if you want to be within striking distance of Barcelona with the average price to buy just around €1.965 /m2 according to property giant Idealista and rent around 14,3 €/m2.

It’s a relatively safe area compared to many of the cheapest in and around Barcelona and has a very multicultural population, as well as close proximity to big superstores such as Ikea and DIY specialist Leroy Merlin.

Badalona

Badalona is another separate town that lies to the east of Barcelona and is probably one of the best options on the list. In recent years a wave of young professionals and families have moved here, having been priced out of Barcelona itself. The main advantage of living here is that you have an excellent beach, plus lots of attractive-looking houses and good restaurants surrounding it, at a fraction of the price for what you’d pay in Barceloneta or Poblenou. The best spots are near the beachfront, while the northern part of the neighbourhood doesn’t have the nicest feel to it. 

According to Idealista you’d pay an average of €14.4 / m2, which would be around €1,152 per month for an apartment of 80m2. And if you want to buy somewhere, it would set you back €2,162 / m2.

Sant Adrià de Besòs

Sant Adrià de Besòs is the neighbourhood which lies between Barcelona and Badalona, straddling the mouth of the River Besòs. The main benefit of living here is that you’re within easy distance of the river and the large green park that sits either side of it, perfect for cycling, rolling blading and numerous other sports. While some spots are ok to live, the main problem, however, is that you really have to know where to look and where to avoid.

For example, La Mina is part of Sant Adrià de Besòs, one of Barcelona’s most dangerous areas with a relatively high crime rate and lots of social issues such as drugs. And don’t be fooled by the fact that it’s a cheap area near the beach. There’s a reason for this, the beach located here lies right in front of the Les Tres Xemeneies (The Three Chimneys) an old factory and is often quite polluted and smells, so it’s not ideal for swimming. For rent the average price is around €14 / m2, while to buy you’ll pay around €2,343 / m2.

Ciutat Meridiana

Ciutat Meridiana is one of the least-well known neighbouhoods on the list because it lies right at the very northeastern corner of the city above Trinitat Vella and Torre Baró areas. Technically it’s part of the wider Nou Barris district and takes its name from the big Meridiana Avenue, one of the main roads that comes into the city from the north.

The area is definitely not the best looking, with mainly 80s-style town blocks and council-type estates, but it’s not particularly dodgy or dangerous. Live here and you’ll be treated to excellent city views, however, plus be located close to the green Collserola Natural Park, a great hiking spot.

Many of the most affordable areas are in the northeast of the city near the Collserola Natural Park. Photo: Carlos Pernalete Tua / Pexels
 

El Bon Pastor

Bon Pastor extends from the village-like barrio of Sant Andreu de Palomar all the way to the River Besòs and the very edge of the city. It’s home to places such as the Westfield Maquinista shopping mall, one of the best in Barcelona, as well as many car showrooms and lots of big warehouses with a kind of industrial vibe. It’s a relatively safe area, even though it’s not one of the most attractive. The average price to rent an apartment here costs around €601.40 and to buy it’s €2.312 / m2.  

Trinitat Nova

La Trinitat Nova is located in the larger district of Nou Barris in the northeastern corner of the city. It sits to the left of the big Avinguda Meridiana and borders the Collserola Natural Park along the western edge. It’s not particularly a dodgy place to live, but it doesn’t best vibe and the edge along the Collserola does have a small shanty town. Its advantages, however, are that it’s well connected to the city. Taking the yellow line, you can be in the centre of Barcelona in just over 20 minutes. Rent costs an average of €662,3 per month and to buy you’ll pay €2,113 / m2.

Trinitat Vella

La Trinitat Vella sits to the right of Trinitat Nova, directly above the neighbourhood of Sant Andreu de Palomar. It has a similar feel to Trinitat Nova too, but does have the benefit of being located around the large Trinitat Vella park. Built around the top of a hill, it features a large lake, as well as grassy meadows and forested areas. There are also basketball courts and even a model racing car track. The average rental price here costs €674,7 per month and to buy you’ll pay around €2,386 / m2.

Roquetes

Located in the larger district of Nou Barris, Roquetes lies to the west of Trinitat Nova, along the edge of the Collserola. It’s characterised by steep streets and high-rise tower blocks. Again like some of the others above it’s not a pretty neighbourhood with a lot going on, but it’s not particularly dodgy or dangerous either. It’s ideal for those who love hiking, being so close to the natural park and many of its best trails, so you won’t even need to take public transport before you’re in the heart of nature. To rent here will cost you around €728.70 and the average cost to buy is €2,113 / m2.

El Carmel 

El Carmel lies more to the northern central part of the city within the municipality of Horta-Guinardó, stretching north from Gaudí’s Parc Güell and Parc del Guinardó up to Horta. It too is characterised by very steep streets and has a chilled residential atmosphere. While the centre of the neighbourhood is nothing to write home about, the southern part lies within walking distance to two of the city’s best parks and the northern part is situated close to the lovely, leafy village-like barrio of Horta, great for families. Living here will set you back an average of €769 to rent and €3,170 / m2 to buy. 

Verdun

Verdun is a small area compared to many of the others and sits right below Roquetas until it meets Via Júlia. It’s mostly residential and is also relatively safe. The nicest part is centred around Via Júlia which is like the area’s own Rambla, lined with many shops and cafes. Renting here will cost you an average of €770 and €2,386 / m2 to buy, being located within Nou Barris.

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