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FOOD AND DRINK

EXPLAINED: Why Norway is so obsessed with salmon 

Salmon is seemingly everywhere you look in Norway - not just supermarket aisles - from business to politics, the fish makes a splash wherever it lands in the Nordic country. The Local explains why.

Pictured is a plate of salmon.
Salmon is a huge deal for Norway. The Local has explained what the fuss is about. Pictured is a plate of salmon. Photo by David B Townsend on Unsplash

Home to moose, reindeer, polar bears, puffins, and whales, Norway has plenty of iconic animals associated with it. 

However, salmon is probably the animal that has the biggest impact and influence on the country. 

When it comes to the economy, everyone knows that oil and gas make up a large chunk of Norway’s wealth – directly or because the revenues from oil and gas are invested all over the globe. 

READ ALSO: Norway’s 1.6 trillion dollar ‘oil fund’ explained

The seafood industry is Norway’s second biggest industry, and last year, Norway exported 172 billion kroner of seafood, according to the industry organisation, the Norwegian Seafood Council

Salmon dwarfed all other seafood exports in Norway as the fish amounted to 122.5 billion kroner worth of exports last year. 

Norwegian salmon can be found on dinner plates all over the world as the country’s largest seafood markets are Poland, Denmark, the USA, France, The Netherlands, Spain, Great Britain, China, Italy, and Germany. 

The numbers may not make for exciting reading, but monthly export figures and the movement of the seafood index make the news in Norway regularly. They are given similar attention to inflation or unemployment numbers by the press. 

When it comes to the Norwegian diet, salmon features heavily and figures from a Norwegian seafood industry organisation estimated that Norwegians eat around 5.63 kilograms of salmon a year – more than anyone else in the world

But why salmon? 

Taste is one factor in the popularity of Norwegian salmon. The fatty fish is famous for its mild and buttery taste. 

However, clever marketing has also contributed to the rise of salmon. 

The Norwegian seafood industry helped shape how sushi is eaten across the world. 

In the 1980s, Norway had a surplus of salmon that it could not shift. To try and move this massive stockpile of salmon, the country turned its efforts towards finding new markets – particularly getting Japan and other countries to use it for sushi. 

After some teething issues, the ploy worked, and salmon is now synonymous with sushi all over the world. 

There’s also availability. Many Norwegians would likely choose skrei, migrating Atlantic Cod, over salmon for dinner. In fact, in northern Norway, stockfish could be considered much more historically and culturally significant than salmon. 

But salmon wins out against the cod because skrei is seasonal, whereas salmon can be fished all year round. 

This availability is the result of salmon farming. Norway supplies around half of the world’s farmed salmon, and most of the salmon eaten in Norway is farmed. 

Are there any issues with Norwegian salmon? 

However, it hasn’t always been smooth sailing for salmon though. In 2011, China allegedly sanctioned Norwegian salmon for the Chinese dissident Liu Xiaobo, being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in Oslo. 

Being such a key export, the Norwegian seafood industry was hit hard until restrictions were eased. 

Salmon farms themselves are also subject to much controversy. With salmon farming being such a massive industry, it is no surprise that business crosses over into politics. 

The most famous example is the salmon tax. The tax aims to ensure that the public benefits more from the vast sums generated by fish farms, with operating profits for these operations reportedly around the 45 percent mark in 2022. 

The result was the introduction of a 25 percent tax on top of corporation tax for the largest producers. 

Such a hefty tax on a critical industry led to a long political row that is still rumbling on, but the government has pointed to the lowering of kindergarten costs nationwide as one policy the increased windfall has paid for

Policy aside, fish farming has proved to be a controversial practice in itself. Fish farming can be harmful to the environment and its surrounding habitat in several ways. 

Furthermore, farmed fish have higher disease instances than their wild counterparts and may offer less nutrition and more toxins than wild fish. 

The diet of farmed fish is also becoming increasingly controversial. Due to overfishing and sustainability concerns, farmed fish are eating less fish in their food and are eating more and more plant-based food. 

This has two impacts. Critics of the practice say that fish and vegetables used in fish feed could be used for human consumption instead. 

Then there’s the impact that the changing diet has on farmed fish.

Farmed fish escaping is a big problem for the ecosystems in which wild fish inhabit. This is because farmed fish can carry diseases. 

Furthermore, the changed diet, lives and conditions of farmed fish compared to wild fish means that if they were to be bred with wild fish, the offspring would be less likely to survive in the wild, leading to dwindling populations. 

READ MORE: Why Norway’s salmon farms have turned to a veggie menu

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FOOD AND DRINK

How two women in Norway aim to bring seaweed to new heights in Europe

In the chilly waters of the Lofoten archipelago in northern Norway, two women want to bring the area's seaweed to fine dining tables across Norway and Europe.

How two women in Norway aim to bring seaweed to new heights in Europe

In the glacial waters of the Lofoten archipelago in Norway’s far north, Angelita Eriksen uses a knife to cut a handful of seaweed that will soon end up in a fancy European eatery.

“We have the cleanest and clearest waters in the world. We’re very lucky that we have this really important resource growing right outside our doorstep,” Eriksen told AFP in a cabin on the shores of the northern Atlantic Ocean where the seaweed is laid out to dry.

“We want to show that to the world.”

The daughter of a Norwegian fisherman, Eriksen joined forces with New Zealand-born Tamara Singer, whose Japanese mother served seaweed with almost every meal, to start the company Lofoten Seaweed — specialising in harvesting and preparing seaweed for the food industry.

With the help of six others, they hand-pick 11 tonnes of seaweed a year, the snow-capped mountains plummeting into the sea behind them in a dramatic tableau.

It’s a demanding and “physical job”, said Eriksen.

The peak season runs from late April until June, but “we harvest the dulse, the nori and the sea truffle in the winter and fall”.

“It can be quite cold, as we can stay out for about an hour along the shore”, with lower legs and hands submerged in the chilly water.

By “late May, I’m actually sweating in my suit”.

Norwegian Co-Founder of "Lofoten Seaweed" Angelita Eriksen picks up Winged Kelp seaweeds in knee deep water.

Norwegian Co-Founder of “Lofoten Seaweed” Angelita Eriksen picks up Winged Kelp seaweeds. (Photo by Olivier Morin/ AFP)

One time, she said, “I took my glove off and the steam was just rising up”.

“It’s physically hard but at the same time it’s very meditative, or therapeutic in a way, to harvest,” she says.

‘Delicate’

Truffle seaweed, winged kelp, nori, dulse, sugar kelp, oarweed kelp: the pair focus on about 10 types of seaweed, long eaten in Japan and increasingly popular in Europe for their nutritional qualities.

The seaweed is sold locally or shipped to gourmet restaurants in Norway and the rest of Europe.

The two women organise workshops to teach chefs about the different varieties and the qualities of each type.

“Seaweeds are like vegetables, they have their own texture, taste and colours,” says Singer.

She said it was a “huge surprise” how many European chefs had little or no knowledge of the different flavours and ways of preparing seaweed.

The duo have worked with Japanese chefs “who know exactly what to do, you don’t have to tell them anything”.

“It’s just so natural for them. It’s like giving a piece of fish to a North Norwegian,” says Singer.

Some 20 kilometres (12 miles) away, chef Josh Wing has been serving the pair’s products in his high-end restaurant Hattvika Lodge for about five years.

He is well versed and does not need to take part in their workshops anymore.

Wing is particularly fond of the dulse, a “very delicate purple seaweed”, which he serves with local fish dishes or bread.

It “can provide a physical texture in a dish that you can’t get from other products”, he tells AFP.

US Chef Josh Haner prepares a dish based on seaweed condiments, surrounded by algae containers. (Photo by Olivier Morin/ AFP)

To ensure that their business is sustainable, Eriksen and Singer have mapped and dated their harvest sites, as well as the volumes of each species, for the past four years.

“Our results show that the regrowth in recently-harvested patches is actually faster than anticipated, almost as if a harvest actually stimulates growth,” says Singer.

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