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FOOD AND DRINK

Are doggy bags still a taboo in Italy’s restaurants?

As controversy rages over a proposed ‘doggy bag’ law for Italian restaurants, why is taking leftovers home frowned upon in Italy and are things changing?

Doggy bag, Italy
Restaurant customers are pictured as they take an unfinished bottle of wine home. Photo by PATRICK BERNARD / AFP

Italy has plenty of unwritten rules revolving around food, and most Italians don’t take affronts to their culinary and dining traditions lightly. 

But after famed Neapolitan pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo added pineapple pizza to his menu last week, another food-related taboo has been brought into question in recent days; namely Italians’ traditional hostility towards the idea of taking restaurant leftovers home, including unfinished bottles of wine.

The topic has been in the news after lawmakers proposed a bill requiring restaurants in Italy to provide takeout containers (in which they used the English term ‘doggy bag’), presenting it as a bid to reduce food waste.

The law would follow in the footsteps of similar pieces of legislation already in place in France and Spain, where bars and restaurants have for years been required to offer customers the option of taking food leftovers away with them.

But, as debates on whether or not it is acceptable to take a portion of rigatoni home from the local trattoria continue in Italy, you may wonder why this is even being discussed, especially as the practice has long been commonplace in other European countries as well the US and UK.

Restaurant, Rome

Customers have lunch at a restaurant in Campo dei Fiori in downtown Rome in April 2021. Photo by Filippo MONTEFORTE / AFP

The general consensus is that the issue boils down to fare una bella figura (‘making a good impression’), and particularly the idea that taking leftovers home from the restaurant may be seen as a sign of limited financial means or excessive attachment to money.

This was confirmed by a 2015 survey that found that one in four Italians believed the idea of carrying the remnants of their favourite dishes back home was a sign of poverty, bad manners and even vulgarity, with only 25 percent of respondents admitting they were comfortable asking for a doggy bag.

READ ALSO: What are the rules on tipping in Italy?

But, 15 years after Michelle Obama and her daughters stunned the country by walking out of a popular Rome restaurant holding a doggy bag, there are early signs that Italians (or at least some of them) may be changing their stance on the controversial takeaway box.

Four in ten Italians are now comfortable taking restaurant leftovers, with ‘only’ 12 percent of respondents saying that it’s vulgar or a sign of poverty, according to a survey from farmers’ association Coldiretti.

A recent survey by the Waste Watcher International Observatory, cited by Ansa, meanwhile found that nearly one in two Italians thinks that restaurants should offer doggy bags, with one in four saying that they would appreciate culinary advice on how to cook or reuse leftovers at home.

And while customers seem to be slowly adapting to the idea of taking food home after eating out, many restaurants have already embraced the idea that providing doggy bags on request may soon be mandatory.

READ ALSO: ‘A rip-off’: Should you really get mad about Italy’s table charge?

Award-winning pizzaiolo Franco Pepe described the ‘doggy bag bill’ as the “ideal proposal”, while Michelin-star chef Ada Stefani said she regarded mandatory takeaway boxes as “a necessary investment” to tackle waste. 

But amid the favourable voices, some remained doubtful or even critical of the proposed bill.

For instance, journalist Giuseppe Cruciani on Thursday described the law proposal as a “shambles”, saying that taking food home was “very vulgar”.

What do you think – are attitudes changing in Italian restaurants? Have you ever encountered problems when asking to take food or drink home? Let us know in the comments section below.

Member comments

  1. I think it’s fine to ask for a container to take home food, but maybe the restaurant should be able to charge for it, even if it’s only a few cents.

  2. It’s extraordinary that the ‘fare una bella figura’ idiom is still common practice in Italy. It feels rather dated and in some ways quite amusing, the evident importance of it. It also keeps Italy in a conservative position both politically and socially.
    I live in central London and doggy bags are very much common practice and completely acceptable regardless of whether in a lower priced resto or high-end.
    I

  3. I think taking leftovers home is a wonderful practice. It communicates an appreciation of the food, decreases overeating while reducing food waste and decreasing the environmental impact. There are some dishes that taste just as good on the second encounter and make a great, quick pranzo or, in the case of pizza, an exciting colazione.

  4. Italians should worry less about “fare una bella figura.” I would say to Giuseppe Cruciani that wasting food is a far more vulgar offense. Stop being so pretentious and start living in the real world.

  5. In recent years I have asked for a “take away” box/bag after dinner for left overs and have seen no attitude at all. But years ago that was not the case.

  6. We always take food home if left and the restaurants always
    supply a container and are happy to do so. Not pasta though. You’ve paid for it so why not take it home?

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CLIMATE CRISIS

‘Extreme’ climate blamed for world’s worst wine harvest in 62 years

World wine production dropped 10 percent last year, the biggest fall in more than six decades, because of "extreme" climate changes, the body that monitors the trade said on Thursday.

'Extreme' climate blamed for world's worst wine harvest in 62 years

“Extreme environmental conditions” including droughts, fires and other problems with climate were mostly to blame for the drastic fall, said the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) that covers nearly 50 wine producing countries.

Australia and Italy suffered the worst, with 26 and 23 percent drops. Spain lost more than a fifth of its production. Harvests in Chile and South Africa were down by more than 10 percent.

The OIV said the global grape harvest was the worst since 1961, and worse even than its early estimates in November.

In further bad news for winemakers, customers drank three per cent less wine in 2023, the French-based intergovernmental body said.

Director John Barker highlighted “drought, extreme heat and fires, as well as heavy rain causing flooding and fungal diseases across major northern and southern hemisphere wine producing regions.”

Although he said climate problems were not solely to blame for the drastic fall, “the most important challenge that the sector faces is climate change.

“We know that the grapevine, as a long-lived plant cultivated in often vulnerable areas, is strongly affected by climate change,” he added.

France bucked the falling harvest trend, with a four percent rise, making it by far the world’s biggest wine producer.

Wine consumption last year was however at its lowest level since 1996, confirming a fall-off over the last five years, according to the figures.

The trend is partly due to price rises caused by inflation and a sharp fall in wine drinking in China – down a quarter – due to its economic slowdown.

The Portuguese, French and Italians remain the world’s biggest wine drinkers per capita.

Barker said the underlying decrease in consumption is being “driven by demographic and lifestyle changes. But given the very complicated influences on global demand at the moment,” it is difficult to know whether the fall will continue.

“What is clear is that inflation is the dominant factor affecting demand in 2023,” he said.

Land given over to growing grapes to eat or for wine fell for the third consecutive year to 7.2 million hectares (17.7 million acres).

But India became one of the global top 10 grape producers for the first time with a three percent rise in the size of its vineyards.

France, however, has been pruning its vineyards back slightly, with its government paying winemakers to pull up vines or to distil their grapes.

The collapse of the Italian harvest to its lowest level since 1950 does not necessarily mean there will be a similar contraction there, said Barker.

Between floods and hailstones, and damp weather causing mildew in the centre and south of the country, the fall was “clearly linked to meteorological conditions”, he said.

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