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ITALIAN TRADITIONS

Do Italians really save a piece of Christmas panettone for February?

You may have heard that in Italy - or at least the Milan area - it’s traditional to keep a slice of panettone from Christmas Day to eat several weeks later. Do people really do this, and why?

Do Italians really save a piece of Christmas panettone for February?
The Milanese have a long and proud history of producing and eating panettone, but does that extend to eating the last surviving remnants in February? (Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP)

Italians are famed as being a pretty superstitious bunch in general and there are plenty of traditions that leave foreign residents and visitors puzzled.

One such custom that you might encounter if you live in Milan, or elsewhere in Lombardy, is that of saving a slice of the Christmas panettone to eat on February 3rd.

READ ALSO: Panettone: Six things you didn’t know about Italy’s most famous Christmas cake

Panettone is believed to have originated in Milan, so perhaps it’s not too surprising that the city has this curious seasonal tradition. But do people really do this? And if so, why?

February 3rd is the feast day of San Biagio, a doctor and bishop who lived in the third century, and who is said to have saved a young man from choking on a fishbone stuck in his throat by giving him a piece of bread that dislodged it.

San Biagio was later tortured and decapitated for his faith, and the Catholic Church declared him a saint and, thanks to the fishbone story, a protector of the throat. Still today, he is believed to have the power to ward off sore throats and other ailments affecting that part of the body.

How much do you know about the panettone?

Photo by kate rumyantseva on Unsplash

There’s also a more recent legend from Milan about a greedy friar called Desiderio who was asked by a local woman to bless her Christmas panettone. But he forgot to do so, instead absent-mindedly nibbling away at the dessert until there was nothing left. By the time the woman came back, it was February 3rd, and the panettone was long gone. As the friar prepared to show her the empty wrapper and come up with an excuse, he found the panettone had reappeared – twice its original size. The grateful friar attributed this miracle to San Biagio as it was, after all, his feast day.

Local tradition now holds that on February 3rd people should have the last surviving pieces of the Christmas panettone for breakfast, as it will have by then taken on magical properties that offer protection from sore throats – something which will no doubt come in handy at that time of year.

People in Milan today however are far more likely to buy a new panettone for the occasion, according to the city’s Chamber of Commerce – which points out that prices in February are much lower than at Christmas.

READ ALSO: Panettone or pandoro: Which is the best Italian Christmas cake?

In fact, in Milan it’s not at all unusual for people to buy panettone outside of the holiday season, with sales remaining strong throughout winter and a smaller trade continuing throughout the year, Chamber of Commerce data shows.

So rest assured that, while no one really expects you to carefully preserve a dried-up piece of your Christmas dessert, you will have the perfect excuse to visit your favourite Milanese pasticceria again in a few weeks’ time.

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OPINION

Doggy bags and sharing plates: Why Italy’s last food-related taboos are dying out

Italy is famous for its strong culinary traditions and unwritten rules around eating, but as Italians embrace doggy bags and informal dining, Silvia Marchetti argues that the last food-related taboos have been broken.

Doggy bags and sharing plates: Why Italy's last food-related taboos are dying out

Italians are deadly serious when it comes to eating or, as they say, “mettere le gambe sotto il tavolo”, meaning ‘putting your feet under the table’.

Three meals per day remain sacrosanct at home, but at restaurants the eating etiquette is changing, particularly in big cities where globalisation has an effect.

I recently discovered, much to my surprise, that Italians are embracing doggy bags. When I was a kid, many many years ago, to us Italians it always seemed like something only foreigners could do, especially Americans.

We would never have asked a waiter to give us a paper bag to bring away the food for the next day, it just would never have popped up in our minds: you eat what you are served and if you no longer wanted what you’d paid for, well too bad, you’ll leave it on the plate. It would’ve been embarrassing to walk away with a doggy bag.

So I was shocked when recently at a restaurant in Rome I saw Italians taking away bags of leftover lunch food, including cold pizza slices and meatballs. It almost knocked me off my chair.

READ ALSO: Are doggy bags still taboo in Italy’s restaurants?

When the waitress came to our table to bring the cheque, and saw that we hadn’t finished our fried  fish and spaghetti alle vongole, she asked if we wanted a doggy bag. My jaw dropped. It was a first for me.

Yet what really shocked me was that the restaurant was not in the city centre, but in the countryside where traditions tend to survive, or at the very least, take longer to die.

It struck me how it’s no longer foreigners asking for doggy bags, but even Italians have overcome the stigma of this former faux pas.

The sad truth is that it’s not just because of globalisation and the economic crisis following the pandemic. There’s been a fall in the cultural level of many Italians, so asking for a doggy bag is also a way to avoid having to cook for the evening or for the day after, rather than to save money.

Sadly, this trend is not an exception, nor a one-off, and in Italy it’s not driven by concerns over food waste (we’re really not that ‘green’) or the cost of living.

Italian restaurants are simply becoming more generically European and international, adapting to global habits and the requests of foreign clientele.

In Rome’s touristy spots, restaurants showcase photos of dishes outside the restaurant to lure customers, or display real plates of gluey carbonara. This is something I had never seen in my childhood.

I have noticed that other restaurant eating taboos and etiquette rules have fallen away, too.

A few (well-off) friends of mine bring their own bottles of wine along when they eat out so that they don’t have to pay for these at the restaurant. I find this very inappropriate, but it usually happens when the restaurant owner and customers are friends or know each other.

READ ALSO: Want to eat well in Italy? Here’s why you should ditch the cities

Trends in restaurant etiquette are changing. There are eateries that serve pizza at lunch, which used to be something you could only order for dinner unless you’re in Naples.

The standard three courses which we normally have are also being messed up: appetisers, first, second and side dishes are eaten in a disorderly way – something which would make my granny turn in her grave.

I have seen Italian families first order a T-bone steak and then pasta or a slice of pizza, while many couples share plates. The man orders one type of spaghetti dish, the woman orders another kind of spaghetti and half-way through the meal they switch dishes. This was something very unusual in the past. Before in restaurant there were boundaries in eating habits and in the eating culture, which are now blurring.

My parents taught me it is rude to poke your fork into someone else’s plate to curl up some spaghetti for yourself. My dad always looked sideways at anyone who did that: not only is it extremely improper, he thinks, but it is also very unhygienic.

There are no more rules left in Italian restaurants nowadays, and all taboos have been broken.

To adapt to foreign clients many restaurants tend to stay open the whole day, especially in very touristy areas, and the untouchable hours of lunch and dinner now overlap. Some taverns even serve breakfast.

READ ALSO: Why do Italians get so angry if you mess with classic recipes?

In the north, I’ve noticed that bread and extra-virgin olive oil are often missing from the table and you have to ask for them, which is something very atypical of Italian standards.

To find the traditional Italian eating code in restaurants where there are rules that will never die, one must go deep into unknown spots, and travel to remote villages no one has ever heard of. It’s always harder to find such authentic, untouched places.

I really hate to say this, but wherever there is mass tourism local traditions tend to die, particularly food-related ones.

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