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PARIS

Walls of bones: How Paris is rebuilding its famous Catacombs

In gloomy burial tunnels under Paris, workers carefully stacked the bones and skulls of people killed during the French Revolution into a new, neater wall.

Walls of bones: How Paris is rebuilding its famous Catacombs
Workers arrange human skulls and bones against a wall on December 12, 2023 during restauration work of Paris' Catacombs (Photo by JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)

The Paris Catacombs, the final resting place for several million Parisians, is starting to rebuild its collapsing walls of human remains.

This week visitors to the massive underground ossuary, which attracts some 600,000 tourists a year, could spot experts beavering away in a brightly lit corner to realign one of its around 200 stacks of bones.

READ MORE: Skulls, beer and a ‘cathedral’: Discover the secrets of underground Paris

The “wall of the September 1792 martyrs” includes the remains of some 1,000 people killed during one of the bloodiest episodes of the French Revolution.

Dry stone wall builder Martin Muriot said restacking their bones was a balancing act like building any other wall without mortar.

“It’s a bit like playing with wooden building blocks,” he said, dressed in a blue jumpsuit and face mask.

First specialists need to sift through the bones to pick out those in best condition for the new wall’s facade.

“All the damaged ones will be used as filling,” he said.

Nearby two glove-wearing technicians worked together to remove a skull and replace it with another. But as they did, a skull tumbled to the floor.

One of the technicians, Hubert Joachim, then painstakingly placed small bits of debris above a row of fragile skulls.

“Without these wedges, the bones (on top) would touch the skulls and could break them,” said Joachim, who usually handles works of art.

Civil engineer Nathanael Savalle said building a bone wall was a tricky business.

Its blocks are “six times lighter than earth”, he said.

There’s a “lot of empty space both between and inside the bones”.

‘Surprising’ work

French authorities began moving human remains from the city’s burial grounds to abandoned quarries under Paris in the late 18th century, worried that decomposing cadavers were a health hazard.

They then moved more when the capital was rebuilt in the 19th century.

Catacombs manager Isabelle Knafou said rebuilding this first wall — a stack 2 metres long and 1.8 metres high — was a test.

If all went well, others inside the ossuary would be redone next year and the year after.

She pointed to a net holding up another wall not far off, its middle bulging out after a part of the quarry ceiling fell on top of it.

“Bones can last hundreds of years”, but time, erosion and humidity can damage the stacks they have been placed in, she said.

Some 20 metres under the capital’s bustling streets, it’s an unusual place to be rebuilding a wall.

With no bathrooms within easy access, workers have to do three-hour stints.

“It’s a bit surprising at first. We’re not used to this kind of thing,” said Edouard Gomis, another technician.

“But once you get into it, you forget you’re handling bones.”

Muriot, the dry stone wall builder, said he found the work “interesting”.

“But I wouldn’t spend my life doing it,” he said.

He was used to working outdoors in the fresh air, not deep underground.

“It’s not really where I feel most comfortable,” he said.

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DISCOVER FRANCE

South-west France offers €10-per-day unlimited rail travel

Check out France's beautiful south-west this summer with a €10-per-day unlimited rail pass, created by local authorities to help people explore the region.

South-west France offers €10-per-day unlimited rail travel

Occitanie, in south-west France, has created a €10 per day rail pass that allows travellers and holidaymakers unlimited travel on local trains the length and breadth of the region.

The pass is valid on local TER services run by the Occitanie region and allows travel on 19 rail lines to all of the region’s 150 stations.

The Occitanie Rail Tour Pass offers unlimited rail travel for between two and six consecutive days from Lourdes to Nîmes, Perpignan to Rodez – and all points in the region in between.

The pass will be valid on all 19 liO rail lines, from all 150 stations in all 13 départements across the region. It cannot be used on the high-speed TGV trains or on Intercité or night train routes.

Additionally, the region’s liO buses can take passengers to parts of the region the train can’t reach for an additional €2 per trip.

The rail pass is intended to open up a region that stretches from the Pyrenees and Mediterranean in the south to the Massif Central in the north, taking in towns and cities including Toulouse, Montpellier, Auch, Lourdes, Albi, Perpignan, Rodez, Narbonne and Nîmes.

The Occitanie region in south-west France. Map: Wikicommons

The region is part of the historic area of Languedoc and is famous for well-preserved Medieval castles, beautiful coastlines, hearty cooking including traditional dishes like cassoulet and some Catalan influences from its neighbour Spain.

READ ALSO The best regional food and drink specialities in south-west France

The rail pass is available to buy now and tickets can be bought for dates until the end of July – although the offer could be extended. Buy here.

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