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FOOD AND DRINK

French oyster farmers race to recover from storm

Inspecting the damage caused by Storm Ciaran at his oyster farm on the Cotentin peninsula in northwestern France, Patrice Rodes sounds incredulous.

French oyster farmers race to recover from storm
An oyster farmer works to repair the damage caused by Storm Ciaran, in the English Channel, off Glatigny, northwestern France, on November 14, 2023. (Photo by LOU BENOIST / AFP)

“I’ve been here 12 years and never seen anything like this,” says the farmer, perched on a tractor in the middle of an oyster bed on the west coast.

Rodes takes in the ravaged mesh bags and dislodged steel tables used to farm the molluscs, some of which are now strewn across the beach or buried in the sand.

Record-breaking winds that swept through western Europe in early November devastated many farms in France, which is both the main producer and consumer of oysters in Europe.

Some oyster parks off the coast of Normandy have been completely devastated, while others suffered partial damage.

With the Christmas holidays just around the corner, French farmers are now racing to clean up and save as many oysters as possible.

Oysters are a very popular winter delicacy in France – on sale at markets throughout the country and forming the centrepiece of the traditional Christmas dinner.

READ ALSO Why do the French eat so much seafood at Christmas?

“Oysters that have spent more than eight days in the sand without breathing are finished: they live in the water,” Rodes says.

The Christmas harvest will not be affected, but the effects will be long-lasting, he added.

“It won’t change the volume we’ll produce for Christmas, but for next year in January or February.”

Heavy bags of oysters that had already grown large were more stable or already harvested, while more volatile bags of small oysters are gone, he says.

Tides have kept the farmers from the oyster beds for about two weeks.

Beds further offshore are still underwater and will not be accessible before January, Rodes says.

He takes stock of the losses as he moves further along the sandy beach, around 50 kilometres south of Cherbourg.

“I never thought I’d be hit this hard.”

“I can already see three or four piles of tables, and a fifth here,” he adds, pointing to a tangle of metal structures emerging from the water.

“It must have blown very hard,” says the 54-year-old, approaching one of the heaps.

“We don’t usually have this kind of problem here, we have 1,200 tables in this park, it’s going to be very complicated.”

The devastating storm exacerbated an already “difficult” business environment, which has made oyster farms “less and less sustainable,” Rodes says.

“It’s hard to find staff, the climate of anxiety is slowing down consumption, we just needed a storm for things to be perfect!” he jokes.

Thierry Helie, head of a regional association of oyster producers in Normandy, shares his pessimism.

He says he is concerned about the fate of farms on the west coast of the Cotentin peninsula, saying there are around 200 such businesses there.

“We have lost 30 percent of our retail price this year, in other words one euro per kilo,” says Helie.

In the new year, “there won’t be enough oysters at the end of January,” he adds. “Many animals have died.”

As Rodes drove back along the beach, the wheels of his tractor smashed thousands of dead oysters to smithereens.

Pointing to the white shells scattered on the beach, he shouted to AFP: “You should film this, these are dead oysters moved by the winds.”

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CLIMATE CRISIS

‘Extreme’ climate blamed for world’s worst wine harvest in 62 years

World wine production dropped 10 percent last year, the biggest fall in more than six decades, because of "extreme" climate changes, the body that monitors the trade said on Thursday.

'Extreme' climate blamed for world's worst wine harvest in 62 years

“Extreme environmental conditions” including droughts, fires and other problems with climate were mostly to blame for the drastic fall, said the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) that covers nearly 50 wine producing countries.

Australia and Italy suffered the worst, with 26 and 23 percent drops. Spain lost more than a fifth of its production. Harvests in Chile and South Africa were down by more than 10 percent.

The OIV said the global grape harvest was the worst since 1961, and worse even than its early estimates in November.

In further bad news for winemakers, customers drank three per cent less wine in 2023, the French-based intergovernmental body said.

Director John Barker highlighted “drought, extreme heat and fires, as well as heavy rain causing flooding and fungal diseases across major northern and southern hemisphere wine producing regions.”

Although he said climate problems were not solely to blame for the drastic fall, “the most important challenge that the sector faces is climate change.

“We know that the grapevine, as a long-lived plant cultivated in often vulnerable areas, is strongly affected by climate change,” he added.

France bucked the falling harvest trend, with a four percent rise, making it by far the world’s biggest wine producer.

Wine consumption last year was however at its lowest level since 1996, confirming a fall-off over the last five years, according to the figures.

The trend is partly due to price rises caused by inflation and a sharp fall in wine drinking in China – down a quarter – due to its economic slowdown.

The Portuguese, French and Italians remain the world’s biggest wine drinkers per capita.

Barker said the underlying decrease in consumption is being “driven by demographic and lifestyle changes. But given the very complicated influences on global demand at the moment,” it is difficult to know whether the fall will continue.

“What is clear is that inflation is the dominant factor affecting demand in 2023,” he said.

Land given over to growing grapes to eat or for wine fell for the third consecutive year to 7.2 million hectares (17.7 million acres).

But India became one of the global top 10 grape producers for the first time with a three percent rise in the size of its vineyards.

France, however, has been pruning its vineyards back slightly, with its government paying winemakers to pull up vines or to distil their grapes.

The collapse of the Italian harvest to its lowest level since 1950 does not necessarily mean there will be a similar contraction there, said Barker.

Between floods and hailstones, and damp weather causing mildew in the centre and south of the country, the fall was “clearly linked to meteorological conditions”, he said.

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