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FRENCH HISTORY

Archaeologists probe French coast for WWII wrecks

A team composed of British and French experts has launched a new campaign to find shipwrecks from the Dunkirk evacuation in 1940.

Archaeologists are searching French waters around Dunkirk to find WWII wrecks.
Archaeologists are searching French waters around Dunkirk to find WWII wrecks. (Photo by Sameer Al-DOUMY / AFP)

Shattered by bomb impacts, the 100-metre-long British destroyer “Keith” has been lying at the bottom of the Dunkirk channel since its sinking in 1940.

It went down during Operation Dynamo, when hundreds of thousands of Allied troops were rescued by sea from the advancing Germans.

Now the World War II warship appears in brightly coloured 3D, vertical slice by vertical slice, on the screen of Mark James, a geophysicist from Historic England.

James has joined a group of archaeologists taking stock of the traces of the battle still lurking under the waves.

A British government agency, Historic England has joined the search for wrecks dating to the Dunkirk evacuation run by France’s DRASSM, which is in charge of underwater archaeology.

Firing sound waves down to the seabed, a multibeam sonar “allows us to create a really nice 3D model of the seabed and any wrecks and debris,” he said.

“It’s quite an emotional feeling seeing somebody’s wreck come up on the screen,” he added. “You kind of realise the human sacrifice that was made.”

Although a large ship, the “Keith” is set to “disappear bit by bit”, said Cecile Sauvage, an archaeologist with DRASSM who is one of those leading the search launched on September 25.

Surveying the wrecks now will allow both countries to “preserve the memory of these ships and the human history behind these wrecks”, she added.

Perilous crossing

Brought to the big screen in an acclaimed 2017 film by Christopher Nolan, Operation Dynamo ran from May 26 to June 4, 1940.

Encircled in northern France by Nazi German forces, the Allies threw everything into a mass evacuation.

Over those nine days, 338,220 soldiers — mostly British, but also 123,000 French and 16,800 Belgians — were evacuated on all kinds of vessels, cramming into military ships, fishing trawlers, ferries and tugboats.

The shortest route from Dunkirk to safe harbour across the English Channel in Dover is 60 kilometres (40 miles).

But that path was within range of German guns already in place at Calais.

“Between 1,000 and 1,500 vessels of all types made the crossing”, with 305 sunk by “shelling, enemy torpedoes, mines and even collisions caused by the panic around the operation,” said archaeologist Claire Destanque, another of the search mission chiefs.

Almost 5,000 of the fleeing soldiers were drowned, according to Dunkirk-based historian Patrick Oddone.

‘305 stories’

The three-week search by two archaeologists and two geophysicists has quartered the English Channel to tally up the lost ships  – the first hunt of its kind in French waters.

Volunteer divers had already catalogued the locations of the wrecks, with the scientists’ job to confirm the sites and shore up their identifications by comparing them with archive data.

Sailing on from the “Keith” under the autumn sun, the crew next heads for a French cargo ship, also around 100 metres (yards) along the keel.

The “Douaisien” had made the trip from Algeria to unload its goods at Dunkirk before being requisitioned to transport 1,200 soldiers.

It had barely left the port before it hit a mine and sank, Claire Destanque recounts.

She points out the point the mine struck on the sonar screen, still visible more than 80 years later.

“Knowing the history that’s behind it, it’s very moving,” she says.

The campaign has allowed the archaeologists to definitively identify 27 Operation Dynamo wrecks.

Three more have been found, but need closer inspection by divers next year given the extent of the damage.

Sauvage says their aim has been “to better locate and get to know the remnants”, as well as “to protect them better, especially if there’s a construction plan like a wind farm that could destroy them”.

Plans have been afoot for several years to build turbines in the sea off Dunkirk.

Another benefit of the search is the return to the headlines of “an important milestone” in World War II history that is far less familiar to the French public than in Britain, Sauvage adds.

The sunken wrecks represent “305 stories within the sweep of history,” Destanque believes.

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CULTURE

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Being lauded as either the greatest artwork in the world or the most overrated tourist attraction in France, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa does not struggle to get attention. But why is this small portrait so famous?

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Paris’ Louvre museum has recently announced that the Mona Lisa painting is to get its own room, a move that is at least partly in reaction to increasing complaints about the artwork being overrated, while tourists struggle to see it in the small, crowded space.

There aren’t many paintings that get a room of their own, so just what is it about Mona Lisa (or La Joconde as she is known in France) that attracts so many millions of tourists each year – and should you bother going to see her?

Why is it in France?

Let’s start with why the painting is in France in the first place, since both painter and subject are Italian (although Italy at that time was still a collection of city states which would not be unified into the modern country until 1861). 

In short, Mona Lisa is in France because her creator Leonardo da Vinci travelled with her, and he was in France when he died in 1519. The reason that he was in France is that he spent the last years of his life working on special commissions for king François I. He died at the Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise, in France’s Loire Valley. 

Upon his death Mona Lisa was taken into the French royal collection and various descendants of François I hung her in their palaces until the French Revolution happened in 1793.

After the Revolution, with the exception of a brief stint in Napoleon’s palace, the painting entered the collection of the newly-created Louvre gallery which – in the spirit of revolutionary equality – was opened up to the people so that they too could enjoy great art.

Various requests over the years – some polite, others less so – from Italy to return the painting have been firmly declined by the French state. 

When did it get famous?

In the 18th and 19th centuries Leonardo’s painting was a popular exhibit among museum visitors, but didn’t have any particular fame and wasn’t regarded as any more special than the numerous other artworks exhibited there.

Although some academic interest in the painting’s subject – most commonly thought to be Lisa Gherardini, wife of the Florentine merchant Francesco del Giocondo – stirred in the 19th century, her real fame didn’t arrive until 1911.

This is when the painting was stolen from the Louvre, a crime that became a sensation and a cause celèbre in France, even more so when the painting was finally found in 1913 after the thief had attempted to sell it in Italy.

The fame of the painting and the crime inspired contemporary artists such as Marcel Duchamp who created a playful reproduction of Mona Lisa (complete with beard and moustache) which in turn enhanced the painting’s recognition. The artistic trend continued with everyone from Andy Warhol to the ubiquitous student posters of Mona Lisa smoking a joint.

Former chairman of the French Communist Party Robert Hue views moustachioed Mona Lisa by dadaist painter Marcel Duchamp, lent out by his party for the first time for an exhibition in January 2002. Photo by NICOLAS ASFOURI / AFP

A tour of the painting to the US in 1963 and to Japan in 1974 further enhanced the celebrity status.

21st century

These days it’s perhaps accurate to say that the painting is simply famous because it’s famous. As the best-known piece of art in the world it’s automatically on many tourists’ ‘must see’ list when they come to Paris – and a lot of tourists come to Paris (roughly 44 million per year).

Meanwhile the Louvre is the most-visited museum in the world, attracting roughly 9 million visitors a year.

Although some visitors find the painting itself disappointing (it’s very small, just 77cm by 53cm) the most common complaint is that the room is too crowded – many people report that it’s so jammed with visitors that it’s hard to even see the picture never mind spend time contemplating the artwork.

Should I go and see it?

It really depends on what you like – if your taste in art is firmly in the more modern camp then you probably won’t find that this painting particularly speaks to you. You will, however, find a lot in Paris that is much more to your taste, running from the Musée d’Orsay (mostly art created between 1848 and 1914) to the Pompidou Centre (featuring contemporary and experimental art) and much, much more.

If, however, Renaissance art is your bag then you’ll struggle to find a finer example of it than Mona Lisa, with her beautiful brushwork, detailed and intriguing background and realistic presentation.

If you do decide to visit, then be prepared for the gallery to be crowded – the Louvre now operates on a pre-booking basis but even having a pre-booked ticket won’t save you from the crowds.

If possible try to avoid the summer and school holidays and prioritise weekdays over weekends – the early morning or late evening slots tend to be a little quieter than others, but you’re going to have to be prepared to share her with many other art-lovers.

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