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FOOD AND DRINK

Kipferl: Explaining the Austrian roots of the French croissant

While the croissant may be synonmous with France, did you know that it is said to originate in Austria?

A bowl of croissants.
A bowl of croissants. Photo: Pexels/Pixabay

The humble (and delicious) crossiant is a breakfast staple worldwide and a quintessential symbol of Frenchness. 

So you may be suprised to learn that it is widely believed to have been invented in Austria, where it is known as the Kipferl. 

Although there is debate over the origins, some say the crescent-shaped pastry can be traced back as far back as the 12th century. 

The City of Vienna said the oldest representation “can be found in the (medieval manuscript) ‘Hortus deliciarum’ from the time of Frederick I Barbarossa; there are also a few croissants that can be seen on a set table”.

The first written mention of a crescent shaped baked good can be found in the 13th century in Jans Enenkel’s ‘Princes’ Book’, according to the City of Vienna.

At the beginning of the 17th century, the Kipferl appeared as a specialty from bakers in Mödling, south of Vienna who were competing with Viennese bakers. It is also said to have appeared in cookbooks of that time.

However, other tales point to the Kipferl being founded as a celebration of the Ottoman Empire’s defeat in the Battle of Vienna in the late 17th century. 

According to one legend, when the Ottoman empire besieged Vienna, they wanted to work their way into the city with the help of a tunnel.

But they had not reckoned with Austrian bakers. As usual, the bakers practiced their craft at night, and since it was quiet, they heard the underground digging, shoveling and scratching.

So the industrious bakers sounded the alarm, and in gratitude for their vigilance they received a license to bake croissants in the shape of the Turkish crescent. A couple, Peter and Eva Wendler, who ran a bakery are cited as the inventors of the Kipferl. However, most historians and experts say this is likely false. 

According to pastry chef Jürgen Davis from the Institute of Culinary Education (ICF), who trained in Vienna, these tales are “almost certainly untrue”. 

READ ALSO: Seven common myths about Austrian food you need to stop believing

Vienna to Paris 

Regardless of the origins of how Kipferl came about, the pastries did end up making their way from Austria to France, thanks to migrants who launched a Parisian bakery. 

According to our sister site, The Local France, August Zang and Ernest Schwartzer, who came from Austria, opened their bakery in Rue de Richelieu, Paris in 1837. They specialised in the pastries and cakes of their homeland and are generally agreed to be the ones who popularised the Kipferl in France. 

READ ALSO: National croissant day – Five things to know about the not-so-French pastry

Despite their shop only being open for a few years, they sparked a craze for Viennese pastries, particularly the curved pastry which became known as a croissant in the French – the word meaning crescent.

Croissant in French retains its original meaning as ‘crescent’ as in the Mouvement international de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (International movement of the Red Cross and Red Crescent).

Although the bakery doesn’t exist anymore, the croissant went to become famous worldwide. 

There’s a popular myth that Marie-Antoinette, the daughter of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, brought the kipferl to France when she married Louis XVI. It is said that she brought her favourite baker with her so as not to have to do without her homeland’s baked goods.

However, it doesn’t appear in any kind of written record until more than 40 years after her death. Therefore, this story is generally considered unlikely. 

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AUSTRIAN HISTORY

Austrian artist turns Hitler manifesto into cookbook

Long reviled as a manifesto of hate, Adolf Hitler's "Mein Kampf" has become the raw ingredient for an art project reconstituting the toxic text into something more savoury: a cookbook.

Austrian artist turns Hitler manifesto into cookbook

In a cafe in the Nazi leader’s native Austria, an artist is cutting up the book that laid the ideological foundations for Nazism — “My Struggle” — letter by letter and reforming them into recipes.

The sentences are mashed and re-served as instructions for making pizza, asparagus salad, tiramisu and egg dumplings — said to have been Hitler’s favourite dish.

Artist Andreas Joska-Sutanto has been working at it for eight years and has so far finished cutting up about a quarter of the book after almost 900 hours of painstaking work.

“I want to show… that you can turn something negative into something positive by deconstructing and rearranging it,” the 44-year-old graphic designer told AFP in the Viennese cafe, where he can be observed once a week working for a few hours.

– ‘Poisonous words’ –

First published in two tomes in 1925 and 1926, Hitler’s autobiographical “My Struggle” served as a manifesto for National Socialism and the ensuing wave of racial hatred, violence and anti-Semitism that engulfed Europe.

The book entered the public domain in 2016 when its copyright lapsed.

Once it became available, Joska-Sutanto came up with the idea of meticulously cutting out every single letter of the 800-page text — with an estimated total of 1.57 million letters — to rearrange them into cooking recipes.

He glues the pages onto adhesive film before dissecting them.

So far, his cookbook draft has 22 recipes.

The original text “no longer has any weight”, he said, displaying the remains of the gutted copy of the book.

“All the weight in the form of letters is gone.”

He left the Nazi dictator’s portrait in the book untouched, he said, to show that “without his poisonous words”, Hitler was reduced to staring at the void.

‘Irreverent’ artwork 

Reactions to the project have been mostly positive, Joska-Sutanto said, though he once apologised to a spectator who criticised his work as “extremely irreverent”.

At the cafe, owner Michael Westerkam, 33, praised the project — he said the raising of awareness of difficult topics such as a country’s historical past could be achieved “in many ways”.

Experts consulted by AFP were reluctant to speak on the record about the project. One, who asked not to be named, said there was a view that it was a “strange” initiative and of “limited” historical and artistic relevance.

Austria long cast itself as a victim after being annexed by the German Third Reich in 1938. It is only in the past three decades that it has begun to seriously examine its role in the Holocaust.

Joska-Sutanto estimates that it will take him 24 more years to finish his project.

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