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EDUCATION

Explained: Why is school uniform controversial in France?

France's education minister has announced that he wants to 'experiment' with imposing a uniform in schools - but this is one topic guaranteed to raise controversy.

Explained: Why is school uniform controversial in France?
School uniform is common in France's overseas territory of Martinique, but is more unusual in mainland France. Photo by ERIC FEFERBERG / AFP

Newly-appointed education minister Gabriel Attal has announced that he wants to create a pilot scheme to test out requiring school pupils in France to wear a uniform.

Unlike in many countries where school uniforms are normal practice – for example in the UK 90 percent of schools require a uniform – in France uniform requirements are rare and the topic itself is controversial.

Announcing the trial, Attal was notably restrained, saying that he did not think that uniforms were a “miracle solution” but that the idea should be tested.

“I am very much in favour of a trial so that it can advance the debate. The best way to get an idea is to test things out in schools,” he told radio station RTL.

Current rules

At present it is up to the individual school to decide whether their pupils should wear a uniform, there is no nationwide policy on it.

The vast majority of public schools don’t have a uniform requirement – but there are two exceptions to this. In the French overseas territories of Guadeloupe and Martinique (both in the Caribbean) uniforms are widely worn.

In mainland France, the schools that have a uniform requirement tend to be private schools, religious schools or military schools. There are some exceptions to this, however, for example several boarding schools set up by the government to help under-achieving pupils have a uniform.

History

Politicians often talk about ‘bringing back’ and uniform or ‘returning’ to the tradition of a uniform, but in fact France has never had a widespread policy of school uniforms.

Until the 19th Century, most schools in France were private or run by the Catholic Church.

It was under Napoleon’s rule that lycées were set up and the baccalaureat end-of-school exam was introduced – at this stage lycées were usually boarding schools with a military ethos – and many of them had uniforms.

Theoretically open to a much broader group of pupils than before (and when we say pupils, we mean boys – girls wouldn’t get widespread educational opportunities for another 50 years) it was noted at the time that the cost of the uniform proved a barrier to potential lycée pupils from lower-income families.

The first free schools were set up under the ministry of Jules Ferry in the 1880s, whose aim was to break the stranglehold that the Catholic church retained on education. 

He set up free primary schools and made education compulsory between the ages of six and 13, extended to 14 in 1936.

Uniform was not compulsory in most of these new public schools, with the main deciding factor being that uniform expenses would deter parents from sending their children.

Some pre-existing schools kept their uniforms, however, but many decided to drop them in the 1960s, especially after the widespread student protests of 1968. 

Up until the 1970s pupils in primary schools often wore smocks (blouses in French) to protect their clothes while at school, but in most cases these were not compulsory.

Recent history 

In recent years, the push to introduce a school uniform has often come from politicians on the right or centre-right, sometimes in the context of laïcité.

Although the state does not have a uniform policy, it does impose rules on what pupils (and staff) cannot wear in schools. Under a law introduced in 2004, pupils and staff in French schools are explicitly forbidden from “the wearing of conspicuous religious symbols or garb” in schools. Although it applies to all religious symbols, the biggest impact has been on Muslim girls.

From September 4th, 2023, this has been expanded to include a ban on the abaya – the long, loose robe or dress commonly worn in the Middle East and parts of Africa. The rationale for this is also laïcité – it is said that some female Muslim pupils are wearing the abaya to show their faith, since they are banned from wearing the hijab.

Extreme right commentator and failed presidential candidate Eric Zemmour said that he is in favour of a uniform “to avoid Islamic provocations in schools”.

A petition calling for the return of uniforms for reasons of secularism has been widely circulated on far-right social media accounts.

But it’s worth noting that this is not a straightforward left v right issue – some politicians on the centre and left also support the introduction of a uniform.

Over the summer Brigitte Macron also said she was in favour of a uniform – responding to a question at a newspaper Q&A session: “I wore a uniform as a pupil: 15 years of dark blue short skirt, dark blue jumper. And I thought it was fine,” she said, responding to a question from a 14-year-old schoolgirl.

“It erases differences, it saves time. It’s time-consuming to choose what to wear in the morning, and costs money to buy brands. So I’m in favour of school uniforms, but if it’s a simple outfit – and not too drab.”

Who says what?

In a broad overview, the people in favour of a school uniform say that it promotes a collective identity, helps to enforce secularism, simplifies the morning routine for parents and children and promotes equality by requiring everyone – rich or poor – to dress the same.

Those opposed to uniforms cite the extra cost to parents and say that it prevents pupils from developing and expressing their own identities. They say there is no evidence that uniforms help to promote equality or prevent bullying, and add that they can make children vulnerable to attack from pupils at rival schools.

Attal said that details of the pilot scheme will be released “in the autumn”, while several regional representatives have offered to run local trials in their area.

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FRANCE EXPLAINED

Why are berets so synonymous with France?

If you walk by a tourist shop in Paris, the chances are very high that they will have a full assortment of berets to choose from. But why is this fashion choice even associated with France?

Why are berets so synonymous with France?

If you were to believe the TV shows and movies about France’s capital, everyone in the city owns a beret, drives a moped, smokes cigarettes, and carries baguettes under their armpits.

While some of these stereotypes might be more true than others (hint: baguette transportation), the anglophone world has been convinced that berets never go out of style.

READ MORE: Baguettiquette: Weird things the French do with bread

These days, a person walking around Paris in a beret is just as likely – if not more likely – to be a tourist than a French person.

That being said, the English-speaking world does have good reason to associate berets with the French.

The word beret is thought to be of Gallic (pre-French) origins, dating all the way back to the Romans, though similar styles of headgear have been found in archeological sites across the ancient world.

Officially, beret begins to appear in the French dictionary around the 15th century, and by the 19th century the waterproof headgear had become popular.

Napoleon associated them with the Basque country and the Pyrenees, though different versions of berets were worn across the French countryside, including the people who would go on to be known as ‘onion johnnies’ in Brittany.

French Onion Johnnies

Brits have a specific reason to associate the French with berets, according to writer Margo Lestz with the Curious Rambler blog.

From the mid-1800s to mid-1900s, it was common for Brits to see French men in berets, riding bicycles and carrying onions.

“These beret-wearing, onion-laden cyclists arrived in the UK every summer to peddle their wares. They came from the area around Roscoff, Brittany in western France. This area was (and still is) known for its special pink onions. They were sweet, had a long storage life – and the British loved them.

“As it happened, many of these onion-sellers were called Yann, a common Breton name which is the equivalent of Jean in French and John in English. The British soon took to calling them “Onion Johnnies”. The Johnnies didn’t mind and happily adopted their new English nickname.

“They would go door to door from July through December across the UK, then would return to Brittany. Since the Onion Johnnies were the only contact that many Brits had with a Frenchman, they naturally assumed that all Frenchmen wore berets,” Lestz wrote.

READ MORE: Why we think the French all wear berets and carry onions

Military gear to street fashion and revolutions

Another reason we associate the French with berets has to do with official military uniforms. Beginning in the 1880s and continuing into World War I, France’s Chasseurs Alpins, infantry soldiers the Alps, began to wear berets as part of their uniform. 

Aloïs Guinut, the author of the book ‘Dress like a Parisian’ told 20 Minutes that “Shepherds wore them first, then soldiers, schoolchildren, and then golfers, mountaineers, and even cyclists adopted it.”

Guinut said that once the headwear became popular with athletes, it started to became stylish in general.

“Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was one of the first to use it as a fashion accessory in the 1930s,” Guinot explained, noting that around that time French cinema was growing in popularity, and more French actresses were sporting berets, including the leading lady Michele Morgan in the film ‘Le Quai des Brumes’.

READ MORE: Where does the ‘romantic, sexy French’ stereotype come from?

By the 1940s, berets were so connected to French identity that they became an essential accessory for the resistance during World War II.

Afterwards, other resistance movements began to incorporate berets too, including the revolutionary Che Guevara.

What about now?

Several military uniforms across the world include berets, including parts of the French military like paratroopers and the French foreign legion.

As for Parisians, “there are [some] who do wear berets. I see them regularly. But it’s true that tourists love wearing berets when they visit Paris, so it is a bit of a tourist accessory,” Guinut said.

It continues to be part of the ‘Parisienne’ appearance as luxury fashion companies use it in their yearly collections – like Dior in 2017.

Meanwhile, tourist shops play up the beret, while pop culture continues to give us images of the beret-wearing Frenchwoman – most recently, Emily in Paris, with the main character frequently accesorising with a bright red beret.

Let us know what you think about berets in the comments below. Do you consider them stylish?

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