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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: How to do the Italian cheek kiss and Italy’s deepest rivalries

From the unwritten rules regulating Italians' trademark greeting to some of the fiercest rivalries going on in the country, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

Palio di Siena
Far from being just a horse race, the iconic Palio di Siena is a vibrant celebration of the age-old rivalry between Siena's 17 city districts. Photo by GIUSEPPE CACACE / AFP

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox: go to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or follow the instructions in the newsletter box below.

From how to order your coffee to which pasta shapes to pair with which sauce, to hand gestures and usage of tu and Lei, Italy has no shortage of unwritten rules.

And falling foul of these rules, especially as a foreign national, can occasionally result in slightly awkward situations involving moderately befuddled locals.

Among a plethora of etiquette protocols, the double cheek kiss – Italians’ trademark greeting – is one of those with the highest potential for embarrassment as newcomers are faced with the ‘to kiss or not to kiss’ dilemma each time they meet someone new.

So, to clear up at least some doubts on the topic, here’s some essential info on the Italian cheek kiss, including when to do it and how.

Here’s how to do the Italian cheek kiss

Italy is a country of romance, even more so onscreen as Italian cinema has over the decades gifted international audiences with a long list of critically acclaimed films about love.

Federico Fellini

The Dolce Vita by Federico Fellini (pictured) is largely considered one of the best films of all time. Photo by AFP

So, we have selected some of the best romantic Italian films of all time to give you some inspiration for your next movie night. 

11 of the best romantic Italian films of all time

While the north v south divide (and the numerous stereotypes associated with it) may be known well beyond national borders, Italy is home to many more fierce and long-lived rivalries. 

And you may be surprised to know that one is all about the popular tiramisù dessert. 

From football to tiramisu: A look at Italy’s deepest rivalries

Finally, visitors often balk at the sight of Italy’s coperto charge on their restaurant bills and complaints about the fee abound on social media. 

But what is the coperto charge really about and what does Italian law say about it?

‘A rip-off’: Should you really get mad about Italy’s table charge? 

Remember if you’d like to have this weekly newsletter sent straight to your inbox you can sign up for it via Newsletter preferences in “My Account”.

Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you’d like to see us write more about? Please email me at [email protected].

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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: Every step of an Italian dinner and are dialects really dying out?

From the ins and outs of a traditional Italian dinner to how the use of Italian dialects is changing, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

La Bella Vita: Every step of an Italian dinner and are dialects really dying out?

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or following the instructions in the newsletter box below.

Less elaborate than French cuisine, Italy’s cucina uses simple ingredients and tends to prioritise fresh local produce over complex cooking techniques. 

But while it may not be as sophisticated as its French counterpart, even an informal Italian dinner is still a multi-course affair, often stretching over several hours and involving various stages. 

If you’re invited into an Italian home for dinner, or are planning an Italian-style dinner yourself, here’s a useful rundown of the courses you can generally expect from a typical cena.

Antipasto to amaro: What to expect from every step of an Italian dinner

It’s a common scenario for foreign nationals in Italy: you’re at the local bar-pasticceria sipping on your frothy morning cappuccino and savouring a cornetto when you suddenly get the feeling that the Italian customers you’re overhearing aren’t actually speaking Italian at all.

Well, that may be because they aren’t.

From Veneto to Sicily, almost every corner of the country has its own regional dialect, though ‘dialect’ isn’t always the most appropriate way to describe Italy’s dialetti as many have evolved separately from what we know today as Italian and could be seen as languages of their own.

Though dialects were once preferred among locals over ‘standard’ Italian, even in formal settings, official statistics have shown for years now that only around 14 percent of Italians still speak their dialect at home. 

View of Naples in the summertime

In Naples and other parts of southern Italy, dialect is still widely used. But something curious is happening to the way many Italians use their local languages. Photo by Diego Mattevi on Unsplash

So does that mean that Italian dialects are disappearing for good, or are they simply evolving? Our writer Silvia Marchetti looks into how their use is changing in the article below.

Are Italy’s many dialects dying out – or just evolving?

Italian counts around 67 million native speakers around the world, and the way the language is used by these speakers isn’t always what visitors or new learners expect. 

Confusion often surrounds words that have crept out into the big wide world and taken on new meanings elsewhere.

We’ve put together eight words which you may never hear native speakers use (or at least not with the meaning you might expect).

Eight Italian words native speakers would never use

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