SHARE
COPY LINK

CULTURE

Paris celebrity graveyard reopens with greener spaces

The Pere Lachaise in Paris, the most visited cemetery in the world thanks to celebrities buried there, is welcoming crowds back after years of Covid restrictions with a back-to-nature setting that helps them keep cool in the summer heat.

Paris celebrity graveyard reopens with greener spaces
Weeds are seen growing uncut around the tombs at the Pere Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on August 8th, 2023. (Photo by BERTRAND GUAY / AFP)

Doors frontman Jim Morrison, Irish writer Oscar Wilde, French singer Edith Piaf and composer maestro Frederic Chopin are among the 70,000 more or less famous people resting at the necropolis, with some graves turned into shrines by worshipping fans.

As the Paris summer has turned sunny again, visitors are flocking to the cemetery, happily wandering and often getting lost among the headstones and the grassy paths, AFP reporters observed, putting the Pere Lachaise back on track for its usual 7,000 daily visitor average.

Most starstruck tourists have eyes for little else but their maps as they seek out specific graves, but some will have noticed that the cemetery is much greener than it was before the global coronavirus pandemic forced visitors away.

The cemetery authorities have started a major drive to “re-naturalise” the site, said park curator Benoit Gallot, who has held the job since 2018.

READ ALSO: Where can you find famous foreigners buried in France?

Dandelions, wild orchids and clover are sprouting among headstones and on the cobbled paths, and there are new patches of lawn where there was only gravel.

Visitors stand in front of the tomnb of Polish composer Frederic Chopin at the Pere Lachaise cemetery in Paris. (Photo by BERTRAND GUAY / AFP)

‘Much more nature’

“There is much more nature than before, more foliage and wild plants on the paths,” said Florence Masson, 44, on her first visit to the cemetery in two decades.

“That anarchical side of the cemetery is part of what this place is about,” said Gallot, who had a moment of social media fame in 2020 when a family of foxes was discovered in the Pere Lachaise.

He said “every square metre” of green gained was “precious” because of the plants’ cooling effects on a hot day.

READ MORE: How Paris plans to keep everyone cool this summer – and beyond

But some regular visitors complain that the cemetery is not as tidy-looking as it used to be.

“I’m disappointed,” said Luc Morel, a pensioner visiting from the southern city of Avignon. “Many of the graves have been neglected.”

Gallot acknowledged that graves get damaged, often as a direct result of the abundant flora in the 43-hectare cemetery, the French capital’s third biggest green space with 4,000 trees.

Falling trees damage around a dozen graves every time a storm hits, he said.

The cost of fixing them is usually covered by the families, city hall and insurance companies.

But the cemetery is still short of money, and will create opportunities to make some on the back of strong demand for plots here.

Only about a hundred applications for funerals are approved each year, Gallot said.

In future, he said, families of the recently deceased could be asked to pay for a full restoration of a site before being allowed to lay their loved ones to rest there.

The Pere Lachaise was Paris’s first municipal cemetery, opening in 1804.

The cemetery creates new space often by grouping the remains of families into a single grave.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

CULTURE

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Being lauded as either the greatest artwork in the world or the most overrated tourist attraction in France, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa does not struggle to get attention. But why is this small portrait so famous?

Why is the Mona Lisa so famous (and why is it even in France)?

Paris’ Louvre museum has recently announced that the Mona Lisa painting is to get its own room, a move that is at least partly in reaction to increasing complaints about the artwork being overrated, while tourists struggle to see it in the small, crowded space.

There aren’t many paintings that get a room of their own, so just what is it about Mona Lisa (or La Joconde as she is known in France) that attracts so many millions of tourists each year – and should you bother going to see her?

Why is it in France?

Let’s start with why the painting is in France in the first place, since both painter and subject are Italian (although Italy at that time was still a collection of city states which would not be unified into the modern country until 1861). 

In short, Mona Lisa is in France because her creator Leonardo da Vinci travelled with her, and he was in France when he died in 1519. The reason that he was in France is that he spent the last years of his life working on special commissions for king François I. He died at the Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise, in France’s Loire Valley. 

Upon his death Mona Lisa was taken into the French royal collection and various descendants of François I hung her in their palaces until the French Revolution happened in 1793.

After the Revolution, with the exception of a brief stint in Napoleon’s palace, the painting entered the collection of the newly-created Louvre gallery which – in the spirit of revolutionary equality – was opened up to the people so that they too could enjoy great art.

Various requests over the years – some polite, others less so – from Italy to return the painting have been firmly declined by the French state. 

When did it get famous?

In the 18th and 19th centuries Leonardo’s painting was a popular exhibit among museum visitors, but didn’t have any particular fame and wasn’t regarded as any more special than the numerous other artworks exhibited there.

Although some academic interest in the painting’s subject – most commonly thought to be Lisa Gherardini, wife of the Florentine merchant Francesco del Giocondo – stirred in the 19th century, her real fame didn’t arrive until 1911.

This is when the painting was stolen from the Louvre, a crime that became a sensation and a cause celèbre in France, even more so when the painting was finally found in 1913 after the thief had attempted to sell it in Italy.

The fame of the painting and the crime inspired contemporary artists such as Marcel Duchamp who created a playful reproduction of Mona Lisa (complete with beard and moustache) which in turn enhanced the painting’s recognition. The artistic trend continued with everyone from Andy Warhol to the ubiquitous student posters of Mona Lisa smoking a joint.

Former chairman of the French Communist Party Robert Hue views moustachioed Mona Lisa by dadaist painter Marcel Duchamp, lent out by his party for the first time for an exhibition in January 2002. Photo by NICOLAS ASFOURI / AFP

A tour of the painting to the US in 1963 and to Japan in 1974 further enhanced the celebrity status.

21st century

These days it’s perhaps accurate to say that the painting is simply famous because it’s famous. As the best-known piece of art in the world it’s automatically on many tourists’ ‘must see’ list when they come to Paris – and a lot of tourists come to Paris (roughly 44 million per year).

Meanwhile the Louvre is the most-visited museum in the world, attracting roughly 9 million visitors a year.

Although some visitors find the painting itself disappointing (it’s very small, just 77cm by 53cm) the most common complaint is that the room is too crowded – many people report that it’s so jammed with visitors that it’s hard to even see the picture never mind spend time contemplating the artwork.

Should I go and see it?

It really depends on what you like – if your taste in art is firmly in the more modern camp then you probably won’t find that this painting particularly speaks to you. You will, however, find a lot in Paris that is much more to your taste, running from the Musée d’Orsay (mostly art created between 1848 and 1914) to the Pompidou Centre (featuring contemporary and experimental art) and much, much more.

If, however, Renaissance art is your bag then you’ll struggle to find a finer example of it than Mona Lisa, with her beautiful brushwork, detailed and intriguing background and realistic presentation.

If you do decide to visit, then be prepared for the gallery to be crowded – the Louvre now operates on a pre-booking basis but even having a pre-booked ticket won’t save you from the crowds.

If possible try to avoid the summer and school holidays and prioritise weekdays over weekends – the early morning or late evening slots tend to be a little quieter than others, but you’re going to have to be prepared to share her with many other art-lovers.

SHOW COMMENTS