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VIENNA

Is Vienna really such an unfriendly city for foreign residents?

An essay by a British man calling out what he describes as "cold attitudes" in Vienna has sparked a heated debate in Austrian media. Is there any truth in his account?

Vienna bar alcohol drink
Vienna tops livability rankings, but bottoms out on friendliness polls. (Photo by Wiktor Karkocha on Unsplash)

It’s increasingly becoming a way for some media outlets to generate social media buzz and web traffic – publish an article about how the dream of living in continental Europe is actually a horrible nightmare in reality.

In March, an American student recounted in international news and feature outlet Business Insider how much she hated her semester abroad in Tuscan Florence.

Three months later, an American freelance marketer told the same magazine how much she regretted moving to Germany.

Now the Austrian capital is under the spotlight, with one British man writing about how much he hated his time in Vienna.

But the essay has sparked discussion with foreigners living in Vienna, as well as in Austrian media.

Daniel Harper writes about how he moved from Wales to Vienna halfway through the Covid-19 pandemic to finish his master’s degree, concerned about the ticking Brexit clock – realising he needed to leave the UK in order to take up residence in an EU country before the UK left the bloc.

He writes about how the capital’s consistent dominance in global liveability rankings formed part of the attraction of living there, particularly for culture, healthcare, and infrastructure. When he heard a friend had a spare room, he packed his bags.

READ ALSO:

Vienna has a reputation for being a particularly difficult city to settle in, despite its liveability. (Photo by Anton Uniqueton / Pexels)

He was immediately struck by the unfriendliness of the locals, recounting how one of his few Austrian friends told him that “in Vienna, you get to know someone by looking away from them”.

Harper says he wasn’t prepared for how hard making friends in the capital would be, with many people simply not interested in inviting new people into their social groups.

The cold winter made it worse, as outdoor meetings became more difficult during the ongoing pandemic. Freedom Party (FPÖ) posters during the city’s mayoral elections also surprised Harper, who says he was shocked that xenophobia could be voiced so openly in the city without consequence.

Austrian backlash

Austrian newspaper Der Standard summarised Harper’s piece for their readers. Their story then received over 1,600 comments in response.

One immigrant in Vienna, who has been living in the city since the 1960s said they had no problem making Austrian friends.

“The Viennese may be world champions at grumbling, but you can still live well here. I love Vienna!”

“This man has not experienced Vienna,” another wrote. “It would be more dangerous if the Viennese were friendly,” they joked.

“A journalist should recognise that the temperature, difficult relationship-building during the pandemic, and the election advertising of a right-wing federal party are not indicators of the friendliness of a city,” said another commentator. 

Others were more sympathetic: “If you move to Berlin, you are a Berliner after two days. If you move to Vienna, you are still not Viennese even after 20 years here and you get that feeling.”

READ ALSO: ‘Everyone smokes’: The biggest culture shocks of moving to Austria

World’s unfriendliest city?

Backlash aside, there’s plenty of people who agree with Harper – even if he did move to the capital during a Covid-19 lockdown.

Despite its world-leading liveability ranking, the 2022 Expat City Ranking by InterNations gave Vienna the dubious title of “World’s Unfriendliest City,” ranking the city in last place for both Ease of Settling In and Local Friendliness.

While Business Insider may have a newfound love for hit pieces on Europe, it doesn’t change the poor performance on friendliness polls for both Vienna individually and Austria as a whole.

READ ALSO: Why do foreigners find Austria such a difficult country to settle in?

The Local’s own readers have also sounded off on the topic in the past, remarking how Austrian – and particularly Viennese – unfriendliness was a massive culture shock for them.

“I still haven’t got used to the fact that small talk is not really a thing here. Even though I have been here for two and a half years, and I have learned German to a fairly decent level; enough to hold a flowing conversation, I feel like I only ever talk to my colleagues or my family,” said Matt, a Welsh man living in Vienna.

“I believe that small talk is actually a very good way to start a conversation and can lead to much more than just a few quick (often repeated) sentences.”

READ ALSO: ‘Everything must be scheduled’: How to make friends in Austria

Do you agree with Daniel Harper? Share your experiences of settling in Vienna by leaving a comment or sending an email to [email protected].

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VIENNA

Vienna Festival director Milo Rau hits back at anti-Semitism accusations

One of the latest events in Europe to be hit with accusations of anti-Semitism, the Vienna Festival kicks off Friday, with its new director, Milo Rau, urging that places of culture be kept free of the "antagonism" of the Israel-Hamas war while still tackling difficult issues.

Vienna Festival director Milo Rau hits back at anti-Semitism accusations

As the conflict in Gaza sharply polarises opinion, “we must be inflexible” in defending the free exchange of ideas and opinions, the acclaimed Swiss director told AFP in an interview this week.

“I’m not going to take a step aside… If we let the antagonism of the war and of our society seep into our cultural and academic institutions, we will have completely lost,” said the 47-year-old, who will inaugurate the Wiener Festwochen, a festival of theatre, concerts, opera, film and lectures that runs until June 23rd in the Austrian capital and that has taken on a more political turn under his tenure.

The Swiss director has made his name as a provocateur, whether travelling to Moscow to stage a re-enactment of the trial of Russian protest punk band Pussy Riot, using children to play out the story of notorious Belgian paedophile Marc Dutroux, or trying to recruit Islamic State jihadists as actors.

Completely ridiculous 

The Vienna Festival has angered Austria’s conservative-led government — which is close to Israel — by inviting Greek former finance minister Yanis Varoufakis and French Nobel Prize winner for literature Annie Ernaux, both considered too critical of Israel.

A speech ahead of the festival on Judenplatz (Jews’ Square) by Israeli-German philosopher Omri Boehm — who has called for replacing Israel with a bi-national state for Arabs and Jews —  also made noise.

“Who will be left to invite?  Every day, there are around ten articles accusing us of being anti-Semitic, saying that our flag looks like the Palestinian flag, completely ridiculous things,” Rau said, as he worked from a giant bed which has been especially designed by art students and installed at the festival office.

Hamas’ bloody October 7th assault on southern Israel and the devastating Israeli response have stoked existing rancour over the Middle East conflict between two diametrically opposed camps in Europe.

In this climate, “listening to the other side is already treachery,” lamented the artistic director.

“Wars begin in this impossibility of listening, and I find it sad that we Europeans are repeating war at our level,” he said.

As head of also the NTGent theatre in the Belgian city of Ghent, he adds his time currently “is divided between a pro-Palestinian country and a pro-Israeli country,” or between “colonial guilt” in Belgium and “genocide guilt” in Austria, Adolf Hitler’s birthplace.

Institutional revolution

The “Free Republic of Vienna” will be proclaimed on Friday as this year’s Vienna Festival celebrates. according to Rau, “a second modernism, democratic, open to the world” in the city of the father of psychoanalysis, Sigmund Freud, and artist and symbolist master Gustav Klimt.

Some 50,000 people are expected to attend the opening ceremony on the square in front of Vienna’s majestic neo-Gothic town hall.

With Rau describing it as an “institutional revolution” and unlike any other festival in Europe, the republic has its own anthem, its own flag and a council made up of Viennese citizens, as well as honorary members, including Varoufakis and Ernaux, who will participate virtually in the debates.

The republic will also have show trials — with real lawyers, judges and politicians participating — on three weekends.

Though there won’t be any verdicts, Rau himself will be in the dock to embody “the elitist art system”, followed by the republic of Austria and finally by the anti-immigrant far-right Freedom Party (FPOe), which leads polls in the Alpine EU member ahead of September national elections.

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