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FRANCE EXPLAINED

Bare chests and bikinis: Do French beach resorts have rules for what to wear?

One French seaside resort on the south coast has recently increased fines for anyone who walks the streets bare-chested to €150. But what are the rules for what you can wear when walking around French beach resorts?

Bare chests and bikinis: Do French beach resorts have rules for what to wear?
La Grande Motte. (Photo by Sylvain THOMAS / AFP)

France has a reputation for being somewhat laissez-faire when it comes to clothing in public. It certainly has its fair share of topless and nudist beaches

But, while both men and women routinely go topless on French beaches, when you’re in the streets, stores, or restaurants in the town it’s a different story.

Suitable dress rules apply in most towns and cities across the country. The mayor of the resort of La Grand-Motte, near Montpellier, has recently increased fines for ‘inappropriate dress’ in the town from €38 to €150 – though local authorities have said they have adopted an ‘educate first, fine later’ policy.

The decree applies to the town centre apart from beaches and promenades directly next to the shore. It bans bare chests, and people wearing only swimming costumes, bikinis, or swim shorts.

Rules on appropriate clothing while walking the streets of the Mediterranean coastal town have been in place since 2008, but have recently been tightened to persuade holidaymakers back into their clothes when they’re not on the beachfront.

An awareness campaign – with the slogan En ville, je m’habille (In town, I get dressed) – is intended to remind visitors to shirt up in the streets and in restaurants.

What about other parts of France?

It is a good idea to know the rules wherever you happen to be. Bylaws similar to the ones in La Grand-Motte are common in most towns and cities across France.

While there are no national laws in France banning public nudity, there are local and national laws against disturbing public order. Local mayors, too, do – as the one at La Grande-Motte did – add their own local bylaws.

READ ALSO: Bare necessities: The rules for getting naked in France

And, even on the beach, it’s not necessarily guaranteed that topless sunbathing for women is acceptable everywhere. Be sure to check signage and local rules before getting undressed.

In the country’s capital, Paris, admittedly not a coastal resort, local rules state that people should be dressed in a manner that is “decent and in accordance with good morals and public order”.

Anyone caught wearing inappropriate clothing in the public space faces a €38 fine.

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FRANCE EXPLAINED

Why are berets so synonymous with France?

If you walk by a tourist shop in Paris, the chances are very high that they will have a full assortment of berets to choose from. But why is this fashion choice even associated with France?

Why are berets so synonymous with France?

If you were to believe the TV shows and movies about France’s capital, everyone in the city owns a beret, drives a moped, smokes cigarettes, and carries baguettes under their armpits.

While some of these stereotypes might be more true than others (hint: baguette transportation), the anglophone world has been convinced that berets never go out of style.

READ MORE: Baguettiquette: Weird things the French do with bread

These days, a person walking around Paris in a beret is just as likely – if not more likely – to be a tourist than a French person.

That being said, the English-speaking world does have good reason to associate berets with the French.

The word beret is thought to be of Gallic (pre-French) origins, dating all the way back to the Romans, though similar styles of headgear have been found in archeological sites across the ancient world.

Officially, beret begins to appear in the French dictionary around the 15th century, and by the 19th century the waterproof headgear had become popular.

Napoleon associated them with the Basque country and the Pyrenees, though different versions of berets were worn across the French countryside, including the people who would go on to be known as ‘onion johnnies’ in Brittany.

French Onion Johnnies

Brits have a specific reason to associate the French with berets, according to writer Margo Lestz with the Curious Rambler blog.

From the mid-1800s to mid-1900s, it was common for Brits to see French men in berets, riding bicycles and carrying onions.

“These beret-wearing, onion-laden cyclists arrived in the UK every summer to peddle their wares. They came from the area around Roscoff, Brittany in western France. This area was (and still is) known for its special pink onions. They were sweet, had a long storage life – and the British loved them.

“As it happened, many of these onion-sellers were called Yann, a common Breton name which is the equivalent of Jean in French and John in English. The British soon took to calling them “Onion Johnnies”. The Johnnies didn’t mind and happily adopted their new English nickname.

“They would go door to door from July through December across the UK, then would return to Brittany. Since the Onion Johnnies were the only contact that many Brits had with a Frenchman, they naturally assumed that all Frenchmen wore berets,” Lestz wrote.

READ MORE: Why we think the French all wear berets and carry onions

Military gear to street fashion and revolutions

Another reason we associate the French with berets has to do with official military uniforms. Beginning in the 1880s and continuing into World War I, France’s Chasseurs Alpins, infantry soldiers the Alps, began to wear berets as part of their uniform. 

Aloïs Guinut, the author of the book ‘Dress like a Parisian’ told 20 Minutes that “Shepherds wore them first, then soldiers, schoolchildren, and then golfers, mountaineers, and even cyclists adopted it.”

Guinut said that once the headwear became popular with athletes, it started to became stylish in general.

“Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was one of the first to use it as a fashion accessory in the 1930s,” Guinot explained, noting that around that time French cinema was growing in popularity, and more French actresses were sporting berets, including the leading lady Michele Morgan in the film ‘Le Quai des Brumes’.

READ MORE: Where does the ‘romantic, sexy French’ stereotype come from?

By the 1940s, berets were so connected to French identity that they became an essential accessory for the resistance during World War II.

Afterwards, other resistance movements began to incorporate berets too, including the revolutionary Che Guevara.

What about now?

Several military uniforms across the world include berets, including parts of the French military like paratroopers and the French foreign legion.

As for Parisians, “there are [some] who do wear berets. I see them regularly. But it’s true that tourists love wearing berets when they visit Paris, so it is a bit of a tourist accessory,” Guinut said.

It continues to be part of the ‘Parisienne’ appearance as luxury fashion companies use it in their yearly collections – like Dior in 2017.

Meanwhile, tourist shops play up the beret, while pop culture continues to give us images of the beret-wearing Frenchwoman – most recently, Emily in Paris, with the main character frequently accesorising with a bright red beret.

Let us know what you think about berets in the comments below. Do you consider them stylish?

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