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What to expect when travelling to Sweden in summer 2023

From weather forecasts to rail disruptions, here’s what to consider when planning a trip to Sweden this summer.

firefighters
Weather forecasts predict the Swedish summer will be hotter and dryer than normal, which could lead to an increased risk of wildfires. Photo: Pontus Lundahl/TT

Heatwaves

Sweden is the perfect country to visit in summer – long, warm days that never really turn into night, but not as suffocatingly hot as southern Europe this time of the year.

That might not be the case this year.

In 2018, Sweden sweltered under a series of heatwaves with wildfires ravaging the country, and several weather forecasts suggest we could get to see a repeat of that this summer.

Heatwaves caused by African anticyclones are expected to make their way towards Europe this year, creating particularly hot conditions throughout the summer months, and meteorologists are already warning that Sweden could get less rain than normal.

Keep up-to-date with weather alerts via Sweden’s meteorological office SMHI.

If you’re planning a barbecue, you also want to make sure you’re aware of any fire bans. A standard fire ban means that you’re not allowed to light fires in the wild, but you may still light a fire at designated spots for grilling. In the summer of 2018, this was upgraded to a total fire ban – no fires permitted, at all – in large parts of Sweden.

You should also keep an eye on local hosepipe bans or appeals to save water. You can always use water for food, drink and personal hygiene, but perhaps you can help avert a water shortage by having shorter showers and not letting the tap run longer than needed.

Restaurant closures and empty cities

Swedes take long summer holidays, with most full-time workers legally entitled to four consecutive weeks off in June, July or August. If you’re planning a city break, be aware that a lot of shops and restaurants close for several weeks as Swedes leave the cities and head to their countryside summer houses. You will still find some places open, though.

Travel disruptions

See above for information on particularly busy travel days.

If you’re travelling by train, be aware that several parts of the rail network are being upgraded this summer, so you should expect altered routes and replacement buses. Here’s a list and map of planned construction work.

You can also keep up-to-date via the Swedish Transport Administration’s website. Click here and scroll down to trafikläget i realtid (“the traffic situation in real time”) to get the latest whether you’re travelling by train (tåg), road (väg) or car ferry (vägfärja).

If you’re driving, read this to avoid parking fines. The speed limit in Sweden is usually 50 km/h in villages, towns and cities, 70 km/h in the countryside and 110 km/h on the motorways, but it does vary and there are nearly always signs stating the speed limit.

Covid rules?

There are no longer any Covid-based restrictions in Sweden, or requirements for visitors to be vaccinated. You may wear a face mask if you want to, but it is unlikely that you’ll be seeing a lot of other people masking up.

Sweden removed some of its remaining Covid recommendations for the public on July 1st, including advice to stay home and avoid close contact with others if you’re ill or have Covid symptoms – although Swedish laws on communicable diseases still state in general that anyone who has an infectious disease should take appropriate actions to protect others against infection (which could include self-isolating).

You are generally not required to get tested if you think you have Covid, but you can still buy a Covid antigen test at Swedish pharmacies or supermarkets. Keep in mind that there’s always a risk of a false negative result.

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Swedish bucket list: Seven train trips you should try this summer

Planning a train trip in Sweden this summer but don't know where to start? Here are our top picks for railway travel across Sweden.

Swedish bucket list: Seven train trips you should try this summer

Inlandsbanan

This 1,300-km route stretches almost the entire length of the country. Although originally built as a freight route, the Inlandsbanan is now aimed at tourists, running only during the summer months.

The train stops for meal and activity breaks, including swimming and fishing in the country’s lakes and berry-picking in the countryside, as well as pausing for photo opportunities – look out for reindeer, elk, lynx and wolves. It’s possible to extend the journey into neighbouring Norway, or choose one of the company’s package tours, with themes such as adventure travel or Sami culture.

Some of the southern parts involve switches to a bus if you do the full journey, but from Mora in the central Dalarna region, it’s a train-only experience. If you’ve only got a short time, the northernmost section (from Östersund to Gällivare) provides the most impressive views.

Travel time and ticket costs vary significantly depending on the route and package you choose, but the full trip is a long one! A 14-day pass starts at 2,545 kronor for over-25-year-olds (but two under-15s can travel for free), while a 6-day trip from Gällivare to Mora starts at 9,295 kronor for an adult including five nights in hotel rooms along the way with breakfast included. More information can be found here.

 

A post shared by Inlandsbanan (@inlandsbanan) on May 29, 2017 at 1:02am PDT

Kiruna – Narvik

Travel time: Between 2hrs 39 and 3hrs 22

A cheaper and faster option for exploring the north is to tackle the final stretch of the epic Stockholm to Narvik (Norway) route, one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys. Depending on the time of year, you might see the northern lights and midnight sun, go dog-sledding or check out the Ice Hotel, and all year round you’ll get views out over mountains and stunning scenery.

You can reach Kiruna from Stockholm on an overnight train, with two services departing each day.

 
Malmö – Copenhagen

Travel time: Approximately 35 minutes

Train is the fastest way to make the journey between these two stylish cities, and you’ll cross the famous Öresund Bridge. The trip should get off to a good start as Malmö’s train station is modern with award-winning architecture and plenty of facilities – and views from rail journeys across the world projected onto the walls while you wait for the train. 

Lidköping – Mariestad (via Kinnekulle)

Travel time: Approximately 50 minutes

This stretch has been voted Sweden’s most scenic train journey, so it’s a beautiful starting point. 

You’ll ride over the Kinnekulle plateau mountain, passing through an area known for its stunning natural beauty and wildlife. Once in Mariestad, there are well-preserved 18th-century buildings to admire, the cathedral to visit, and the option of boat tours or bathing in the vast Lake Vänern.

Huskvarna – Bankeryd

Travel time: Approximately 16 minutes

It’s only a short trip, but if you sit on the east side of the train you’ll get a clear, uninterrupted view of Lake Vättern for the entire journey, making it well worth doing if you’re in the southern region of Jönköping. Find more information and book tickets through SJ or directly with Jönköpings länstrafik.

Ljusdal – Ånge

Travel time: Approximately 1hr

SJ operates this route in the geographical centre of Sweden, taking in charming villages, vast forests and lakes such as Letssjön and Hennan along the way. Ånge is known for being the hometown of a surprisingly high number of Swedish musical acts, and there’s beautiful nature to explore, or you could get the train onwards to Sundsvall or to Trondheim, Norway in the opposite direction.

Torsby – Kil

Travel time: Approximately 1hr 20 minutes

Tågkompaniet operates this stretch, via Värmlandstrafik, which is a single, non-electrified track. It passes through the Fryken chain of three lakes and has been running for over 100 years.

This article was first published in May 2018 and updated in April 2024
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