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FRENCH HISTORY

The tiny island that is Spanish for half the year, and French the other half

Did you know that there's an island that is French for half the year and Spanish the other half? Not only that, it has a particularly bizarre history involving princess-swaps and hostage-handovers. Welcome to 'Pheasant Island'.

The tiny island that is Spanish for half the year, and French the other half
Photo by JEFF PACHOUD / AFP

Most of the border between France and Spain is a land border, running through the Pyrenees and decorously diverging when it gets to Andorra.

But the northern-most portion of the border, which takes in the Basque Country, runs down the centre of a river. In the middle of this river is a very small island – 200 metres long, 40 metres wide, population 0.

Map showing the French town of Hendaye, the Spanish town of Irun and between them, right on the Franco-Spanish border, ‘pheasant island’. Map: Google maps

Despite being tiny, it has five different names; Île des Faisans or Île de la Conférence if you’re speaking French, Isla de los Faisanes in Spanish or in the Basque language either Konpantzia or Faisaien Uhartea Konferentziako Uhartea. All of these translate to either ‘pheasant island’ or ‘conference/treaty island’.

Fun fact: there are no pheasants on pheasant island (the name is believed to be a mis-translation). And at 0.00682 km square it’s unlikely to have much of a future as a conference centre. 

The reason we’re talking about this island is its unique nationality status – from February 1st to July 31st each year the island is part of Spain, then on August 1st it becomes French and remains so for the next six months.

So how did it end up with this weird status? Especially as, a little further up the river is the larger island of Isla Santiagourra – in this case the border simply goes round the island, which is Spanish 365 days a year.

The 1856 Treaty of Bayonne which formalised its hybrid status stated that “Pheasant island, to which so many historical memories common to the two Nations are attached, will belong, undivided, to France and Spain”.

International treaties of this period aren’t exactly famous for careful consultation with locals and the island is, as we already mentioned, uninhabited. There’s no contemporaneous explanation of exactly why it was felt so important to respect “historical memories” but it could simply that no-one could be bothered to argue over this tiny lump of land, or that it was handy to have a ‘neutral space’ along the border.

The island came to prominence 200 years earlier when the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed there, bringing an end to decades of war between France and Spain and establishing the Franco-Spanish border (and giving the island its secondary title of ‘treaty island’).

It remained for decades a ‘neutral’ space that was often used as a handover spot by the French and Spanish, but the rotating nationality was only formally established by the 1856 Treaty. 

The treaty also appointed two viceroys to run the island – the naval commanders of San Sebastian (Spain) and Bayonne (France), which gives the island its further distinction of having the only French example of the quasi-royal title of viceroy – the term comes from the French vice-roi meaning someone who deputises for the king.

In reality, it is administered by the mayor of Irun during its Spanish phase and the mayor of Hendaye during the French phase.

Talking of royalty, the island has an especially royal history – and long before the treaty that cemented its special status it was used as a meeting place for royals from France and Spain.

In 1659, Louis XIV met his future wife Maria Theresa of Spain at the island. Relevant paperwork signed, she said goodbye to her father Philip IV of Spain and crossed into France to become his queen.

In 1721, Louis XV met his intended bride Mariana Victoria of Spain there, this time however the meeting was less successful and the two ended up marrying other people.

The bride-swapping went both ways – Elisabeth of France, daughter of Henri IV, met her future husband Philip of Spain on pheasant island.

And it’s not just women who were traded there – children were too.

In 1526 François I, who was being held hostage by Spanish king Charles V, was taken to the island where he was swapped for his two eldest sons. The boys lived as hostage as the Spanish court for four years, until the French royals agreed to pay an enormous ransom. The scene of the handover? Pheasant island, naturally. 

The island is uninhabited with no regular transport there – so if you want to visit, you will need to wait for the next Journée du patrimoine (heritage open day) when the island is, sometimes, open to the public. 

Pheasant Island is not the only weird, quasi-royal space on the Franco-Spanish border – there is of course also the principality of Andorra, which is (nominally at least) ruled jointly by the French president and the Bishop of Urgell – they rule as ‘co-princes’ which means that, technically Emmanuel Macron is a prince.

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DISCOVER FRANCE

Where to celebrate St Patrick’s Day 2024 in France

As the world prepares to mark St Patrick’s Day, there are several events planned in France's major cities in honour of Ireland’s patron saint.

Where to celebrate St Patrick's Day 2024 in France

Sunday, March 17th will mark St Patrick’s Day, which commemorates Ireland’s patron saint and, more broadly, Irish culture and heritage all around the world. 

Generally speaking, celebrations won’t be as widespread in France as in some other countries but most major cities will still offer a number of Paddy’s Day-themed events on Sunday or, in some cases, even in the days leading up to it.

Paris

Family friendly events – For the first time, Paris’ town hall partnered with the Irish Cultural Centre to launch ‘Irish Week’ (la semaine de l’Irlande).

In the days leading up to St Patrick’s day, there have been concerts, activities, theatre and films, but all of that will ramp up this weekend. You can check out the full festival programme on their website.

On Friday night, there will be a concert by the West Ocean String Quartet, but reservations are required. The same goes for the concert on Saturday, by The Weaving, who will also perform during the Sunday St Patrick’s Family Day. Ticketing info here.

Join the Family Day on Sunday – admission is free, and the events will go from 1pm to 7pm, hosted in the Cultural Centre’s courtyard.

From foodtrucks with fish and chips, burgers, and drinks, you can eat, enjoy live dance and music performances, plus face-painting, story-telling and fun for all ages.

There is also the St Patrick’s immersive Northern Ireland experience, set up by Irish Tourism, which will involve dancers from the Belfast Traditional Music Trail company. It will also include photos and videos showing the breathtaking landscapes of Northern Ireland, including many Game of Thrones filming locations.

The event will take place at the Beaugrenelle shopping centre. More info here.

Sunday mass – The Saint Patrick’s chapel, located at 5, rue des Irlandais (5th arrondissement) hosts a Sunday mass in English, as well as pop and folk concerts throughout the year.

Bars – Paris is home to several Irish bars and pubs. The Local has picked out a few that will host St Patrick’s day events.

Corcoran’s near Grands Boulevards will put on a special menu and decorations throughout the weekend.

McBrides Irish Pub will be one of the 33 bars selected across France to host the Paddy O’Flaherty Parade, organised by the Irish whiskey brand. The selected pubs will bring together musicians, games plus the signature ‘Ginger Paddy cocktail’. 

O’Sullivans By the Mill is hosting two St Patrick’s parties – one on Saturday, starting at 9pm with a free concert, and another on Sunday, with a concert from the acoustic duo FIFTY/FIFTY. More info here.

Bordeaux

Outside of Paris, there are still plenty of events on offer.

In Bordeaux, head to the La Boca Foodcourt (located by Quai Paludate) on Friday for a festive atmosphere. More info here.

You can also visit the city’s Irish pubs – Molly Malone’s Irish Pub will host a concert on Friday and a celebration on Sunday, more info on their Facebook page

Similarly, the Connemara Irish pub has plenty of events and concerts planned throughout the weekend. Info on their Facebook page.

Lyon

The same goes for Lyon – several Irish pubs and bars have festivities planned. The Paddy’s Corner pub will put on its traditional party on Sunday with live music all from 7pm to 12:30am. More info here.

There is also the Elephant & Castle pub in Vieux-Lyon, which will also host a concert for traditional Irish music, with the group Celtic Bears performing. Entrance is free, with doors opening at 8:30pm. More info here.

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