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BERGEN

Five things that surprise foreigners who move to Bergen

Bergen, Norway's second-largest city, has a lot going for it. However, if your general impression of it is based on sunny photos of Bryggen found on most tourism-oriented sites – you're in for a surprise.

Bryggen
If you didn't research living in Bergen before moving there, you may be surprised as you adapt to life as a Bergenser. Photo by Tom Vanhoof on Unsplash

Located on the coast of western Norway and situated between seven mountains, Bergen is surrounded by beautiful scenery.

With a population of roughly 285,600 people, it is Norway’s second-largest city, and it boasts a proud and rich history, with numerous historic buildings and museums.

The city has a vibrant community of international citizens, built up mostly of students and foreign workers, and is widely known as one of the safest cities in the country.

However, in case you didn’t do your homework on living in Bergen before you relocated, there are some things that will likely surprise you as you slowly start becoming a “Bergenser” (a Bergen local).

Here comes the rain again

If your impression of the weather in Bergen is based on sunny photos of Mount Fløyen and tourists basking in the sun at the Bryggen wharf found on the state-funded tourist guide Visit Bergen, you’re about to have a rude awakening.

Bergen gets approximately 230 rainy days a year, and it is commonly referred to as the “rain capital of Norway.” That means you’ll have to prepare for precipitation year-round.

The first thing you’ll need to do is invest in waterproof clothes. Go for quality and functionality, and expect your wardrobe upgrade to be pricey.

Once you have all the necessary weather-proof clothes in your closet, you’ll be able to fully grasp the meaning of Bergen’s two unofficial mottos: “There is no bad weather, only bad clothes” and “Those who wait for nice weather never end up going anywhere.”

The (sea)food and the fishing

Exploring local cuisines is one of the numerous joys one can experience after moving to a new country. Norwegian cuisine may surprise foreigners with its focus on seafood, especially when it comes to traditional dishes like lutefisk and rakfisk.

Leaving the delicacies which are an acquired taste (like lutefisk) aside, there are several more mainstream dishes and food culture that you’ll likely find peculiar.

One example of this is the Bergen fish soup, or Bergensk fiskesuppe, a beloved traditional dish in the city that offers a unique and flavorful experience, particularly for foreigners from Mediterranean countries. This soup is made by combining a variety of ingredients, including fish soup stock, heavy cream, white vinaigrette, white wine, and various types of fish, such as cod and salmon.

The prevalence of sushi culture in Bergen can also come as a surprise to many. Sushi is sold in abundance throughout the city, ranging from stores like Meny and Rema 1000 to sushi stands in malls, to all-you-can-eat sushi chains like Sabrura, and even high-end sushi restaurants such as Red Sun and Nama.

The overall obsession with fish food is unsurprising, given the fact that the fishing in Bergen is known to be excellent. The city’s location provides a unique marine environment that attracts various fish species. Some popular fish species in Bergen include pollock, cod, and mackerel, among others.

Fishing is also an important industry in the city and surrounding areas, with many locals and tourists enjoying fishing trips and seafood restaurants offering freshly caught fish.

Bergen

Sunny days (like the one pictured) are a rarity in Bergen. Photo by Sandro Kradolfer on Unsplash

The (infamous) Bergen dialect

If you moved to Bergen from eastern Norway – or invested in your linguistic competencies by going to Norwegian language courses – you’ll likely have difficulties understanding Bergensk, the local dialect. Why is that, you ask?

Well, in a number of foreign language schools (even those in Bergen), the Norwegian language taught is very close to the eastern, Oslo dialect.

READ MORE: Bergensk: A beginner’s guide to the Bergen dialect

So don’t be surprised if you’re unable to understand the locals in Bergen even if you reached B1/B2 – even Norwegians from other parts of the country can sometimes have problems understanding Bergensk.

The key obstacle you’ll face is likely to be pronunciation. Don’t get disheartened – expect the transition to the dialect to take a couple of months, and take the time to polish your language skills regularly.

Not that cold

For a lot of people, the mental image that comes to mind when one mentions Norway is that of snow and sub-zero temperatures. While that is definitely the case in northern Norway, the climate in Bergen is surprisingly mild (despite the constant rain).

Due to its coastal location and the surrounding mountains, Bergen has a particular microclimate with relatively warm winters and cool summers. The average temperature in Bergen ranges from 1-2°C in winter to 15-16°C in summer.

This mild climate – coupled with the surrounding mountains – makes the city a great location for outdoor activities such as hiking and skiing, especially on those rare sunny days!

Pssst! Don’t be surprised if you see the locals leaving work early to make the most of a sunny day; it’s a thing.

Excellent public transport

Compared to cities of its size in other European countries, Bergen is often lauded for having an excellent public transportation system.

Getting around the city is easy, as both the buses and light rail (Bybanen) are quite reliable. The Bybanen, in particular, is very handy, as it operates on dedicated tracks from the city centre to the airport and beyond.

Skyss, the local public transport company, operates both the buses and the Bybanen. There are multiple ticket options available, including single tickets (priced at around 40 kroner), day passes, and weekly or monthly passes, which are usually purchased via the Skyss app.

The nice thing is that the Skyss transport options are integrated, so a single ticket can be used on both the bus and the Bybanen.

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BERGEN

How Bergen puts its own spin on Norway’s May 17th traditions

Throughout Norway, May 17th is a highlight of the year, with millions celebrating Constitution Day. However, Bergen likes to do things a bit differently.

How Bergen puts its own spin on Norway's May 17th traditions

Bergen in western Norway, the country’s second-largest city, takes on an especially festive atmosphere for the May 17th celebrations.

Streets and houses are dotted with Norwegian flags as far as the eye can see, and the city, known for its rich cultural scene, transforms into a bustling hub of national pride and joyous celebrations. 

READ MORE: Why does Norway celebrate May 17th?

This sort of approach to celebrating Norway’s big day isn’t unique to Bergen – most cities in the country have a special program in place to mark the occasion.

However, Bergen puts its own unique spin on this special occasion, featuring an air show, fireworks, parades with organisations unique to Bergen, and much more.

How the festivities start

Bergen celebrates Norway’s Constitution Day with several distinct local traditions.

The festivities kick off bright and early, with an opening ceremony, followed by a festive salute fired from Skansen, a historic site in the Bergenhus district.

Simultaneously, the morning procession, featuring the Sandviken’s Youth Corps and Lungegaarden’s Music Corps, starts from Dreggen and concludes at Festplassen Square in the city centre.

A highlight of this procession is the inclusion of the buekorps – traditional neighbourhood youth organisations that march through the streets, a feature unique to Bergen.

READ MORE: How Norway’s biggest cities will celebrate May 17th this year

As the city awakens, main procession attendees gather around 10am at Koengen, an open-air concert venue in the city centre.

The main procession begins between 10 and 11am. It is central to the day’s celebrations, and the fact that Bergen natives call this parade a prosesjon instead of tog (a word used in the rest of Norway), just goes to show how important having a distinct tradition is to Bergen. 

At the same time, a flag parade departs from Festplassen. While the main procession makes its way through the streets, the flag parade heads in the opposite direction. Having two parades heading in opposite directions is something that sets Bergen apart from other parts of the country, like Oslo. 

Furthermore, a boat parade also embarks from Hilleren at a similar time.

Norway flag 1

Flags are a central feature of Norway’s May 17th celebrations, symbolizing national unity – you’ll see them everywhere you turn. Photo by Peter Hansen on Unsplash

Midday: Continued processions, speeches, music performances – and the Viking Ship stage

Midday brings a flurry of activities, including a race rowing procession from Kaigaten close to noon, followed by speeches and musical performances on the Viking Ship stage at Festplassen – a special stage used for this occasion – featuring the Krohnengen Brass Band and the Bergen Opera Choir.

There, you’ll likely be able to hear Nystemten (Udsigter fra Ulrikken), Bergen’s own city anthem, alongside Norway’s national anthem – a tradition that isn’t that common outside of Bergen, where people tend to stick to the national anthem.

Around 1pm, dancing livens up Torgallmenningen and Ole Bull squares, complemented by concerts at nearby landmarks like Den blau steinen and Musikpaviljongen.

Later in the afternoon, a spectacular air show takes place over Vågen/Byfjorden, which always attracts a crowd.

The air show is also a special experience that doesn’t take place in all cities.

Evening: Gospel, torch parade, and fireworks

As evening sets in, a gospel night organised by local congregations offers a musical pause in St. John’s Church.

The celebrations conclude with a torch parade from Bergenhus leading to Festplassen between 10 and 11pm, capped off by a grand fireworks display.

READ MORE: Key things you absolutely shouldn’t do on May 17th in Norway

Locals and visitors alike converge on Festplassen and other key viewing spots around the city to see the fireworks.

Families, friends, and neighbours come together, many having spent the day enjoying the various parades and performances (as well as a glass or two of alcohol) to watch the sky light up in a dazzling array of colours.

And there you have it! If you’re planning to spend May 17th in Bergen, you now know what to expect and the must-see activities to catch throughout the day that are exclusive to the city.

To learn more about how Norway celebrates the signing of its constitution in 1814, which declared the country’s independence, be sure to check out The Local’s in-depth guide to May 17th.

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