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COST OF LIVING

Mediterranean diet: Why the Spanish are eating far less fish

Fish and seafood are one of the most important parts of the Mediterranean diet and Spain is known for its excellent offerings, but now consumption of these products has fallen by 20 percent.

Mediterranean diet: Why the Spanish are eating far less fish
Fish consumption falls by 20 percent in Spain. Photo: G.C. / Pixabay

Most Spanish regions have at least one traditional fish dish or seafood dish, even the ones that are not located along the coast. In fact, to follow a Mediterranean diet, it’s recommended to eat fish at least two or three times a week, however, the latest data shows that during the first two months of 2023, fish consumption fell by 20 percent.

Many believe that this is due to inflation and the historic rise in food prices in Spain, which has affected the entire weekly shop but has had one of the greatest impacts on the cost of fish.

Fish prices have risen 14 percent within the last year, meaning that families can no longer afford the types of meals they once ate, causing consumption of one of Spain’s much-loved products to decrease by a whopping 20 percent.

READ ALSO: Food prices in Spain rise 16 percent despite VAT cut

According to data from Spain’s National Statistics Institute (INE) published on March 14th, inflation has had the most pressure on the price of the weekly shop and food become more expensive by 16.6 percent in the last year. The Organisation of Consumers and Users (OCU) has estimated that this translates into an extra annual cost of €924.

Many families are now saying that cans of tuna are the only type of fish that they can afford and that it is now considered a luxury product for special occasions only.

READ ALSO – Cost of living: What are Spain’s best price comparison websites?

When the reduction in VAT on food was announced in December 2022, fish was excluded from the list. The 4 percent VAT for staple foods, such as bread, milk, flour, cheese, eggs, fruit, vegetables, legumes, potatoes and cereals, was abolished and the government also cut VAT on oil and pasta 10 to 5 percent for six months.

But now, merchants are asking that the government reduce the VAT on fish to 4 percent as well.

Meat consumption is another important part of the Spanish diet, which favourite dishes and tapas such as jamón, paella Valenciana and cocido.  

The consumption of fresh meat fell by 2.5 percent in the first month of the year, according to data presented by NielsenIQ at the 23rd Aecoc Congress of Meat Products.  

Many Spaniards are choosing to switch to frozen meat instead, saying that they can save around €3 to €4 by not buying it fresh.  

The Minister of Agriculture, Fisheries, Food and the Environment of Spain, Luis Planas, however, does not believe that the drop in the consumption of meat and fish is due to high prices.

According to him, it is due to a trend of consuming a more vegetarian diet instead. Planas claimed it was not necessary to lower VAT on meat and fish. The drop in meat and fish consumption is due to a “consumption trend” rather than the price factor he explained, referring to the annual report on food trends carried out by the ministry. 

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FOOD AND DRINK

José Andrés: Who is the Spanish celebrity chef feeding people in need?

World Central Kitchen, which is mourning the deaths of seven employees in Gaza, was founded by Spanish-American celebrity chef José Andrés, who began cooking for people in crisis zones after the Haiti earthquake of 2010.

José Andrés: Who is the Spanish celebrity chef feeding people in need?

The US-registered NGO has been feeding Gazans displaced since the start of the war between Israel and Hamas six months ago.

Last month, it organised the first maritime aid shipment to reach Gaza in nearly two decades, working with the Spanish NGO Open Arms to send 200 tonnes of food to the territory amid UN warnings of an impending famine.

The two organisations built a jetty southwest of Gaza City to deliver the aid, which was followed by a second shipment on Monday.

The dead aid workers had just unloaded the second consignment at the warehouse in central Gaza where WCK has set up a giant kitchen when they were killed in an Israeli strike.

In an interview with US talk show host Jimmy Kimmel in November 2023, the gregarious 54-year-old chef hailed the bravery of the organisation’s volunteers.

“When others are moving away from disaster we have amazing individuals who move into the disaster (zone) to help people,” Andrés said.

He said that in most cases, the NGO obtains food directly at markets or shops in the affected areas and cooks using local infrastructure.

The volunteers “make magic happen, literally”, he said.

Born in 1969 in the northwestern Spanish town of Mieres, Andrés trained under Catalan chef Ferran Adriá, the famed creator of so-called molecular cuisine.

He moved to the United States in the 1990s, opening a string of restaurant that blend Spanish cuisines with flavours from Latin America and Asia.

One of his Washington restaurants, the 12-seater Minibar, has two Michelin stars.

In 2022, he turned his American fame into a CNN travel show, “José Andrés and Family in Spain”, featuring him and his three daughters on a gastronomic tour of his homeland.

In February that year, WCK was on the ground at Poland’s border with Ukraine within hours of Russia’s invasion, feeding refugees fleeing bombardments.

“I am and will be an emigrant all my life. That’s why I try to work on their behalf,” Andrés told Spanish daily El País in a May 2022 interview.

From Haiti to Ukraine

Andrés threw himself into humanitarian work in 2010, when Haiti was rocked by a devastating earthquake that killed around 200,000 people and caused extensive damage.

In his November interview with Kimmel, he said that was when he decided he was “not going to stand watching on TV thinking about what we can do.

A man carries a cardboard box of food aid provided by non-profit non-governmental organisation World Central Kitchen in Rafah in the southern Gaza Strip. (Photo by MOHAMMED ABED / AFP)

“I’m going to show up and start learning how cooks like me, if we come together with volunteers, we can start feeding anybody.”

He travelled to the Haitian capital Port-au-Prince and began cooking local staples such as black beans and rice for families in camps for the displaced.

Since then WCK has dished up millions of meals to people impacted by natural disasters as well as migrants arriving at the US border, hospital staff working nonstop through the Covid-19 pandemic, Venezuelans in the grips of a severe economic crisis and war-scarred Ukrainians.

In 2015, he had planned to open a restaurant in the Trump International Hotel in Washington but pulled out after Donald Trump disparaged Mexicans as “rapists” who were “bringing crime” to America.

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