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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: Untranslatable Italian words and visiting Rome’s Pantheon and Colosseum

From making the most of a visit to Rome's famous sights to understanding Italian words that have no English equivalent, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

La Bella Vita: Untranslatable Italian words and visiting Rome’s Pantheon and Colosseum
Visitors outside the Pantheon in Rome. The ancient site is currently free to visit, but the Italian culture ministry plans to introduce an entry fee. Photo by Vladislav Glukhotko on Unsplash

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This new newsletter will be published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or follow the instructions in the newsletter box below.

As we wrote last week, tourism in Italy is set to return to pre-pandemic levels in 2023, and if you’re in central Rome at the moment you could be forgiven for thinking the whole world has arrived at once. Last weekend, crowds flocked to enjoy the famous sights again in the early spring sunshine and Piazza della Rotonda was packed out with people admiring or waiting for entry to the Pantheon. You do need to reserve a slot in advance if you plan to visit the Pantheon on busy weekend days, but entry is free – for now, at least, as Italy’s culture ministry announced this week that the Pantheon will soon start charging visitors a fee for entry. They didn’t say how much it will cost – though it will be “no more than five euros”, the ministry said, and Rome residents and those attending mass will be exempt.

The plan has divided opinion among visitors, with some tourists saying they don’t mind paying a couple of euros towards the monument’s upkeep, while many Italians are furious at the proposal and insist such sites should remain free and open to all. The strength of feeling among those who are against the idea might be surprising, but this is mainly due to the widespread Italian ideal of ‘bene pubblico artistico-culturale’; you can read more about this long-running debate in our feature below:

Why is Italy’s plan to charge for entry to the Pantheon so controversial?

And whether it’s your first or fifteenth trip to Rome, you won’t want to leave without making a stop at the Colosseum. If you’ve already seen the arena itself, it’s worth going back on a tour or different ticket type to visit the upper floors, the nearby Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, and a range of other lesser-known sights in the complex. On certain dates you can even see the Colosseum by night, which really is magical. 

During busy periods though the area around the Colosseum can be hectic, and you’ll need to plan ahead to get the most out of your trip. Here’s our quick guide to a hassle-free visit.

How to visit the Colosseum in Rome

A visitor stands in the hypogeum, or underground area, of the Colosseum.

A visitor stands in the hypogeum, or underground area, of the Colosseum. Photo by Filippo MONTEFORTE / AFP.

If you’d rather escape from the cities and explore Italy’s natural sights in the countryside and national parks, spring means the perfect weather for camping. But pitching a tent is definitely not the number one way for Italians to spend their holidays, so you might think campsites – at least good ones – are few and far between. While there aren’t always as many options as you’d find in some European countries, Italy is still a great option for a camping holiday. We’ve put together a guide to planning yours:

How to plan a camping holiday in Italy: a guide for the uninitiated

More humble and less fussy than French cuisine, Italy’s cucina povera makes use of minimal ingredients, prioritising fresh local produce over complex cooking techniques – which essentially means you’ll eat very well in Italy without necessarily spending a fortune.

But while it’s not as elaborate as its Gallic counterpart, even an informal Italian lunch is still traditionally a multi-course affair, often stretching over several leisurely hours and involving various stages and countless plates.

If you’re invited into an Italian home for lunch or dinner, you’re likely to find it a relaxed occasion that may include all or just some of the courses listed in our article below – though you can expect it to be lengthy and abundant.

Antipasto to amaro: What to expect from every step of an Italian dinner

Every language has words and phrases that don’t translate easily, and Italian is no exception. You might just find a new favourite Italian word or two on our list of the most interesting words that can’t be translated into English (and which often tell us a lot about Italian culture, too).

The top ten Italian words that just don’t translate into English

Remember if you’d like to have this weekly newsletter sent straight to your inbox you can sign up for it via Newsletter preferences in “My Account”.

Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you’d like to see us write more about on The Local? Please email me at [email protected].

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LA BELLA VITA

La Bella Vita: Unexpected Italian food customs and the history of the cornetto

From the real story of Italy's classic breakfast pastry to the food customs you'll only know about if you live in Italy, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

La Bella Vita: Unexpected Italian food customs and the history of the cornetto

La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox: go to newsletter preferences in ‘My Account’ or follow the instructions in the newsletter box below.

I don’t know about you, but there were a few things about Italian food that surprised me when I first moved here (and I don’t mean the fact that there’s no cream in carbonara.)

I spent my first two years in Italy in a small town in Tuscany, where all of my glossy magazine-inspired notions of Tuscan cuisine were quickly shattered – and replaced with a better appreciation of what the term “rustic” actually means.

I’d order what I thought would be a salad, and get a heap of unpeeled vegetables so fresh they still had dirt clinging to them. I questioned my Italian comprehension when waiters rattled off the daily specials: fried brains, liver, tripe, cow’s stomach.

And don’t get me started on the unsalted bread served everywhere.

This is the famous Tuscan cuisine? I thought to myself semi-regularly. At the risk of provoking controversy, I’ll admit I was disappointed.

I soon got used to it. Now I love pappardelle al cinghiale (thick pasta ribbons in wild boar ragù) with the same strong vino sfuso (cask wine) that I once described as rocket fuel. Although I’ll pass on the lampredotto (that’s the fourth and final stomach of a cow) for now.

Wherever you go in Italy you’ll find local specialities and curiosities of the sort that usually aren’t featured in the pages of lifestyle magazines or Italian cookbooks aimed at non-Italians, and which don’t figure in our collective imagination when we think of Italian cuisine.

This week, we put together a list of just a few of the curious food customs you probably won’t know about unless you spend a lot of time in Italy – and please leave a comment below this article to tell us about any others you’ve come across.

Offal and midnight pastries: Six surprising Italian food customs

Sagra in Italy

Photo by MARCELLO PATERNOSTRO / AFP

And, as popular as the cornetto (or brioche, if you’re up north) is in Italy, you won’t find anyone who claims the country’s favourite breakfast pastry is an entirely Italian invention.

But what may come as a surprise, given the croissant’s strong associations with France, is that it didn’t originate there either, but in Austria. 

Although there is debate over the origin story, the crescent-shaped pastry can be traced back as far back as the 12th century and it’s thought to be more like a cousin of the croissant than a direct descendant. 

So next time you’re enjoying a cornetto with Italian friends at the bar-pasticceria, you’ll be able to impress them with your historical knowledge:

Kipferl: Explaining the Austrian (not French) roots of Italy’s cornetto

It’s still warm and decidedly summery in Italy at the moment, but I’m already looking forward to autumn. It’s my favourite time of year for several reasons, not least the sagre – traditional, food-centred festivals held in villages all over the country, usually showcasing one particular local delicacy: there are festivals focused on everything from grapes and walnuts to porcini mushrooms, truffles, and… frogs.

We’ve got a list of some of the best sagre happening around Italy in the coming weeks if you’re looking for some inspiration for a weekend trip:

The best Italian food festivals to visit in September

Remember if you’d like to have this weekly newsletter sent straight to your inbox you can sign up for it via Newsletter preferences in “My Account”.

Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you’d like to see us write more about? Please email me at [email protected].

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