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FOOD AND DRINK

Fact or fiction: 11 rules about French wine (and a couple of myths)

French wine is a heavily mythologised subject, with people keen to tell you all about the 'must follow' rules - we take a look at the facts and the fictions surrounding drinking wine in France.

Fact or fiction: 11 rules about French wine (and a couple of myths)
(Photo by Philippe LOPEZ / AFP)

Never drink red wine without food accompanying it

For the French, vin rouge goes with food, especially if you’re serving meat. Red wine is also the traditional accompaniment to the cheese course.

As with many of these wine ‘rules’ older or more conservative French people will stick to the rules while the younger crowd will probably decide that it’s OK to just have what you want.

READ MORE: Apéro: All you need to know about the French evening ritual

Red is, however, not usually drunk for apéro (pre-dinner drinks) – at apéro time if you’re having wine it will usually be white (sometimes with the addition of a splash of kir) or rosé in the summer months.

You can hear the team from The Local chatting about wine in the latest episode of the Talking France podcast, download it HERE or listen on the link below.

Under no circumstances can you pair red wine with fish

While it is fair to say that the vast majority of the time, this rule will be respected and you will be told “only white wine with fish”, there are some exceptions to be made.

For more meaty fish like tuna you might be able to get away with it. In these cases, you will probably be advised to go for a red that is more on the tannic side – like a Pinot Noir. 

French women do not pour their own wine

French tradition dictates that women should not open wine bottles or pour their own wine, but should instead wait for the man to pour.

These days it’s really only the older or extremely socially conservative French people who are likely to stick to this rule – in 2023 most French women are perfectly comfortable pouring their own wine. If you find yourself dining in a chateau with an elderly French aristocrat, however, they might expect men to do the pouring.

The rule of “the guest should not pour his/her own wine” is slightly better adhered to, however, and among older French people you should perhaps let your host serve you.

The bigger the dimple at the bottom, the better

Most bottles of wine have little concave dimple at the bottom that you can use to help you grasp and pour the bottle better.

The size of this varies from a small indentation to a deep grove that you can fit your entire thumb into – and some believe that the size of this dimple determines the quality of the wine – the bigger the dimple the higher-quality the wine.

According to experts, however, this has little to say about whether the wine is high quality or not.

Different wine regions in France use different shaped bottles (for example, Alsatian wine comes in thin, long bottles), so it is not possible to say across the board that having a big dimple at the bottom signifies quality in any way.

Champagne should only be drunk from a flute or a coupe

It is true that a traditional, tall, narrow flute will keep the Champagne bubbles, so if your goal is to emphasise the fizz, then the flute is the best way to go.

However, if your objective is to taste all of the rich flavours in the Champagne, then you might opt for a coupe or even a standard wine glass. 

Ella Lister, wine expert and taster for the Figaro Vin, recommends that flavour connoisseurs opt for a ‘Tulip’ glass or even a regular wine glass that has a wide bowl at the bottom, but narrows at the top (like one intended for white wine) to get the best taste from Champagne. 

The Champagne coupe is modelled on the breast of Marie Antoinette

A persistent myth is that the coupe style of Champagne glass – the wide, flat glass – was modelled on the breast of Marie Antoinette, the guillotined French queen, although some legends also say it was the breast of royal mistress Madame de Pompadour.

Either way, the couple style of Champagne glass is seen in France at least 100 years before either of these women arrived on the scene, so we can say it is conclusively a myth. It’s likely that it came about because of Marie Antoinette’s post-Revolution reputation for excess and extravagance. (she never said ‘let them eat cake’ either). 

Putting ice in rosé is a faux-pas

It would be best to avoid doing this in a restaurant, but when you’re relaxing on a friend’s terrace on a sweltering summer day, no French person will blame you for dropping a cube or two into your rosé. 

The reason that it’s frowned upon is because you’re diluting the wine so it’s best not to do this with an expensive rosé, but a cheaper ‘rosé piscine‘ (wine for drinking around the pool) probably won’t suffer too much from the addition of a bit of ice.

Rosé is much nicer when served well chilled, however, so perhaps invest in a cooler or ice bucket to keep your bottle chilled in the summer. 

Wine with a screw-top is bad quality

Wine with a screw cap is less common in France than other wine-producing nations like Australia or the USA – but it’s not true that only the cheap wines get screw caps.

In fact, having a screw cap can actually protect the wine – cork taint affects about five percent of all wines with corks, so you might even be better off with a screw cap.

French people might think you’re crazy if you store red wine in the fridge

You will definitely get some weird looks if you put red wine in the fridge. That being said, red wine should not be drunk too hot either. Ella Lister told Le Figaro that the ideal temperature should be around 14 – 15C.

If it is too cold out and you suspect the wine has dropped below that, the expert recommended rubbing the glass or bottle with your hands a little bit. Otherwise, try to store red wine somewhere that is not too hot, not too cold. 

Wine should be stored laying down

There is some logic in the idea of investing in a wine rack, as the bottles really ought to be kept horizontal.

The reason for this is to keep the wine in contact with the cork, so that the cork doesn’t dry out.

“If the wine is not in contact with the cork, the cork becomes dry, and oxygen can more easily penetrate the interior of the bottle and oxidise its contents”, explained Lister to Le Figaro.

Avoid bringing wine to a French dinner party

Some people recommend  not to bring wine as a gift to dinner parties because it could be seen as an insult to your host – implying that they do not know much about wine.

READ MORE: Apéro to digestif: What to expect from every step of a French dinner

This really just depends on who your hosts are. The best practice is simply asking ahead of time what you can bring, and whether they would like another bottle of wine.

If you do take wine don’t be surprised if your host doesn’t open it however – many people will have already planned what wine they will serve, based on what goes best with what they have cooked.

Testing out a bottle of wine at a restaurant is not actually about your preferences

If you feel slightly intimidated by the idea of being asked to provide a detailed critique on the wine when your French waiter pours you a little to try, don’t worry.

This is not a test of the wine quality of your knowledge of it – instead, it is meant to determine whether the wine was contaminated by the cork.

Any knowledgeable wine fans will be able tell from the first whiff if a wine is bouchonné (corked). That’s why the host of a dinner party should always taste the wine first to make sure it’s good before serving guests. 

Member comments

  1. Some of the stuff about red wines here is nonsense. It is quite common in France to have lightly chilled red wines with fish and not just the strongly flavoured, high fat, fish such as tuna, salmon, mackerel, herring and anchovies. Commonest here are wines made from: Gamay; light Pinot Noir (but NOT your Romanée-Conti or Chambertins of course), Corvina, Frappato and Dolcetto wines. In the Mediterranean in summer chilled red wines (your vin trés ordinaire usually) by the glass in bars is also widespread.

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SCHOOLS

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

School children in France are entitled to a lunchtime meal of three, or even four courses – but what if you prefer to provide meals yourself? 

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

French school meals are, famously, pretty good – children get a three or even four-course meal of properly prepared dishes and the menu (including cheese course) is usually published in the local town newsletter so everyone can see the types of meals being served.

The concept of a proper meal at lunchtime is an important one. “The diet of a school-age child is essential for their growth, mental development and learning abilities,” the French Education Ministry says in a preamble about school meals on its website. “It must be balanced, varied and distributed throughout the day: for example 20 percent of total energy in the morning, 40 percent at midday, 10 percent at four o’clock and 30 percent in the evening.”

And it’s not all about nutrition, the social aspect of sitting together and eating a meal is also important – the ministry continues: “Mealtime is an opportunity for students to relax and communicate. It should also be a time for discovery and enjoyment.”

All schools provide meals in a canteen and most pupils take up the opportunity – however it’s also possible for pupils to go home at lunchtime so that they can eat lunch with their parents.

The idea of taking in a packed lunch (panier-repas) is much less common in France – but is it actually banned?

The rules on lunch

At écoles (up to age 11), the local authority or établissement public de coopération intercommunale (EPCI) is responsible for providing quality school meals. This generally involves meals being provided via a central kitchen, and then delivered to the school’s kitchen, where it can be kept warm, or reheated as necessary.

The system is slightly different in collèges and lycées (attended by children aged 11 and up). In those establishments, catering falls into the purview of the wider département or region – and is routinely managed directly by individual establishments, which will have catering staff on site to prepare meals. Often, meal services are outsourced to private businesses, which operate the kitchens.

There are various rules and regulations in place regarding what food is offered, and how long a child has to eat – which is, in part, why the school lunch period is so long. Children must be allowed a 30-minute period to eat their meal, from the moment they sit down with it at the table. 

Then, they’re given time to play and relax before afternoon classes start.

READ ALSO What you need to know if your child is starting school in France

At a minimum lunch must include a main course with a side dish, a dairy-based product, as well as a starter and/or a dessert. Meals must also, the government says, be composed of 50 percent sustainable quality products (including 20 percent organic).

Some local authorities go further and serve only or mostly food that is organic, locally sourced or both.

Water and bread must be freely available, but salt and condiments can only be added in preparation – no sauce bottles or salt and pepper on the tables. 

Daily menus are generally available to view on school websites and many town newspapers or newsletters also publish them.

Parents pay a fee for the school lunch, which is calculated according to income and can be free in the case of low-income families.

Packed lunch

But what if your child doesn’t like the school lunches and you don’t have time to pick them up, cook a full lunch and take them back in the afternoon everyday? The obvious solution would seem to be to send them in with a packed lunch, as is common in the UK and USA.

In theory this is possible, but only in certain circumstances and with very strict rules and caveats. 

The Ministry, in a written response to a Senator’s question in 2019, said: “The use of packed lunches [home-supplied meals] by primary school students can provide an alternative to school meals. This method of catering is authorised in particular for children with a medically established food allergy or intolerance, requiring an adapted diet.”

READ ALSO How to enrol a non-French speaking child in school in France

It added: “the preparation and use of packed lunches in schools must follow certain rules. First of all, it is important to respect the cold chain”.

The cold chain is a term applied to food handling and distribution – it’s usually used by food-preparation businesses, but in the context of a packed lunch it means that food prepared at home must be kept in appropriately cool conditions until it is ready to eat. It would be the responsibility of parents to ensure that the food is delivered to school in containers appropriate for the job (ie an insulated cool bag).

Once at the school, it is up to whoever manages the kitchen to ensure that food is properly reheated. This becomes the sticking point at which many parents’ requests to send their children to school with a packed lunch, rather than go to the canteen, or eat back at home, are refused.

The reheating concern suggests that schools are also expecting parents to prepare a proper meal – rather than just throwing some sandwiches and a cereal bar into a bag.

Unless there’s a genuine and proven health reason for your child to eat a home-prepared meal, most parents will probably find the school won’t budge on this – even in cases of a strike by kitchen staff or lunch monitors.

READ ALSO Just how much do private schools in France cost?

The Ministry’s written response explains: “[A]s this is an optional public service, the municipality can justify its refusal to admit the children concerned by objective material and financial constraints, such as the need to equip itself with additional refrigerators, or for additional supervisory staff to supervise them during lunch.”

As well as the practicalities, for some schools this is an equality issue – because of the varied fee structure for school lunches what happens in effect is that richer parents are subsidising a good quality lunchtime meal for poorer students in the class; if everyone brought in a packed lunch and therefore stopped paying the fee, the lower-income kids would miss out. 

What about allergies or other health issues?

Children with allergies or other health issues that require a particular diet must be accommodated. An individual meal plan – known as a projet d’accueil individualisé (PAI) can be set up. More details (in French) are available here, on the government’s website.

It also becomes easier for parents to provide home-produced meals in such instances. As ever, it is up to the parents to ensure any meals are appropriately packaged and transported to school.

Not all schools

Some individual schools in France do permit pupils to bring in meals from home. They must be taken to school in an appropriate cold-storage container, and they will be stored in the kitchen area until they are needed, when meals will – if necessary – be reheated.

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