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CULTURE

ART: Italian artist’s censored painting of half-nude woman restored after 300 years

Using gentle, circular motions, an art restorer gently cleans the painting of a half-nude woman that was censored more than 300 years ago by a prudish descendant of Michelangelo.

US conservator Elizabeth Wicks at work restoring Artemisia Gentileschi's 1616 painting 'Allegoria dell'Inclinazione' in the Casa Buonarroti
This photo from 10 January 2023 shows US conservator Elizabeth Wicks at work restoring Artemisia Gentileschi's 1616 painting 'Allegoria dell'Inclinazione' in the Casa Buonarroti museum in Florence. Photo: Andreas SOLARO / AFP

The piece by Artemisia Gentileschi, the Italian Baroque’s trailblazing woman artist, is undergoing a months-long restoration to rediscover her original vision, hidden for centuries under a thick layer of strategically placed paint.

While the restorers consider it too risky to remove the drapery and veil later painted on to cover the figure’s breasts and loins, diagnostic imaging will provide a glimpse of the original nude as Artemisia intended.

“As we say in Italian, it’s been turned inside out like a glove with all the diagnostic techniques possible to understand how the painting was conceived, how it was painted,” conservator Elizabeth Wicks, the head of the team of restoration experts, told AFP.

The experts also want to uncover “what happened to it afterwards, and to see if we can read between the veils of censorship that were added to the painting.”

US conservator Elizabeth Wicks gestures towards Artemisia Gentileschi’s painting ‘Allegoria dell’Inclinazione’ in the Casa Buonarroti Museum, in Florence on January 10, 2023. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

Artemisia painted “Allegory of Inclination” in 1616 to glorify Italy’s most celebrated artist, Michelangelo Buonarroti.

But the work’s curious history has only added to the fascination surrounding Artemisia, the 17th century’s most eminent woman painter whose talent, independence and dramatic life story have fuelled new appreciation in the post-#MeToo era.

Hide the flesh

The painting, which many believe to be a self-portrait of Artemisia, depicts a female nude sitting atop a cloud, representing innate creative talent and drive.

It was commissioned by Michelangelo’s great-nephew, who turned his ancestor’s home into a sumptuous residence and museum to celebrate his genius.

It was one of 15 paintings Michelangelo the Younger commissioned for the ceiling of the palazzo’s gallery.

This photo, taken with a fisheye lens on January 10, 2023, shows the ceiling of the “The Galleria” of the Casa Buonarroti Museum, a room dedicated to the glorification of Michelangelo, during the restoration work on Artemisia Gentileschi’s painting. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

Artemisia, who went on to achieve fame and the patronage of kings during her lifetime, was paid three times more than her male colleagues, in recognition of her exceptional skill.

She painted the work soon after arriving in Florence from Rome, where at age 17, she was raped by a colleague of her painter father.

During a subsequent trial, she was tortured to determine whether she was telling the truth, and her attacker was convicted.

About 70 years after the work’s completion, a more puritanical descendant of Michelangelo baulked. Concerned about the possible effect of the nudity on his wife and children, he hired famous Tuscan artist Baldassare Franceschini, known as “Il Volterrano”, to modify it.

He painted a diaphanous veil over the figure’s breasts and heavier drapery over her loins. That extra layer of oil paint, which can take up to 200 years to fully dry, now presents too great a risk to remove.

US conservator Elizabeth Wicks stands in front of Artemisia’s painting. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

“I like to think that she had passed away by the time this painting was censored because I don’t think she would have been very happy about it,” said Wicks.

“We’re not too happy about it either, but it’s part of the history of the painting at this point.”

Heroine at centre

Centuries of smoke, and varnish added in the 1960s, have imparted an orangey fake tan to the figure’s skin, while the brilliant blue sky painted with lapis lazuli has turned a sickly grey-green.

“You can see this leg is lighter because I have cleaned (and) thinned the varnish in this area,” said Wicks, dabbing at the canvas while peering through magnifying glasses.

Wicks started at the edges, and next month will begin working on the back of the canvas. After a careful restretching, resins will be added to strengthen the fibres of the canvas and re-adhere the paint.

This photo taken on January 10, 2023 shows “Studio”, one of the rooms of the Casa Buonarroti Museum, a study room designed by Michelangelo, where the restoration work on Artemisia Gentileschi’s “Allegory of Inclination” is taking place. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

Thus far, X-rays and other imaging techniques have revealed not only the underlying nudity but also changes made to the eyes and hands as Artemisia worked.

“What you’d think is under the veil is under the veil. It’s all there!” laughed Wicks.

During an exhibit that starts in September, visitors will be able to see the work up close before the painting permanently returns to the palazzo’s ceiling.

They will be able to view a digital image that reveals its various layers while exploring the modern techniques that helped uncover them.

The project’s coordinator, Linda Falcone, said it was important to “create a conversation about art by women — the fact they were protagonists in their time”.

Artemisia, she said, was a savvy self-promoter, because with her tribute to Michelangelo, “she’s saying, ‘I, as a woman, have the inclination to paint!'”

“She puts the heroine at the centre of the canvas, and that heroine has her face.”

READ ALSO: Weekend Wanderlust: Walking in Michelangelo’s footsteps in the Little Valley of God

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CULTURE

Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli dies at 83

Roberto Cavalli, whose penchant for python and flamboyant animal prints made him the darling of the international jet set for decades, died Friday at 83, the luxury company said.

Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli dies at 83

“It is with deep regret and a great sadness the Roberto Cavalli Maison participates in the passing of its founder Roberto Cavalli,” wrote the company in a statement sent to AFP.

“From humble beginnings in Florence Mr. Cavalli succeeded in becoming a globally recognised name loved and respected by all,” said the company.

First seen in the 1970s on stars such as Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot, Cavalli’s skin-baring, eye-popping styles were still favoured years on by later generations of celebrities, from Kim Kardashian to Jennifer Lopez.

With a taste for Ferraris, thoroughbred horses, fat cigars and tailored shirts unbuttoned to expose his tanned chest, the designer’s private life also appeared the stuff of fantasy.

He married a Miss Universe runner-up, owned a purple helicopter and a Tuscan vineyard, and was on a first-name basis with A-listers like Sharon Stone and Cindy Crawford.

But the designer also weathered challenges, including a dry spell in the 1980s when minimalism took hold on runways and his form-fitting, feathered creations looked out of step.

A years-long trial in Italy on tax evasion charges ultimately ended in Cavalli’s acquittal, but after his eponymous fashion house began posting losses, a majority stake was sold to private equity in 2015.

Best known for his use of printed leather and stretchy, sand-blasted jeans, Cavalli always embraced the wow factor in his designs, never encountering an animal print he did not like.

The designer was tapped in 2005 to update the Playboy Bunnies’ scanty uniform — true to form, he introduced one version in leopard print.

Party crasher

Born on November 15, 1940 in Florence, Italy’s premier leatherworking centre, Cavalli began painting on T-shirts to earn money while at art school.

He recalled in his blog in 2012 how he gate-crashed a party in 1970, and, seeking to save face when he met the host, who was a designer, told him that he printed on leather.

When the designer asked to see some of his work the next day, Cavalli hurried to find samples of thin, supple leather onto which he printed a flower design.

The designer was impressed, and Cavalli was hooked.

Taking his inspiration from glove design, Cavalli began working with calfskin, patenting a new way to print leather with patterns that soon caught the eye of French luxury goods maker Hermes and the late designer Pierre Cardin.

In the 1970s, he opened a shop in Saint Tropez, playground of the world’s glitterati, and debuted his collection in Paris.

He went on to present for the first time in Italy at Florence’s opulent Palazzo Pitti, grabbing attention with his boho-chic patchwork designs on denim that married the unpretentious fabric with expert tailoring.

‘I’m copying God’

Of his ubiquitous use of prints, the animal lover — whose menagerie once included a monkey — told Vogue in 2011: “I like everything that is of nature.”

“I started to appreciate that even fish have a fantastic coloured ‘dress’, so does the snake, and the tiger. I start(ed) to understand that God is really the best designer, so I started to copy God,” he told the magazine.

In the 1980s Cavalli’s instantly recognisable, exotic designs were out of sync with the minimalist look that was all the rage, but the designer came back with a bang a decade later with distressed-looking jeans that proved a hit.

His fashion empire expanded to home furnishings, wine, shoes, jewellery and even a line of vodka, its bottle sheathed in snakeskin.

Taking his style to the high street, he designed a fast-fashion line for Swedish retail giant H&M and tour outfits for Beyonce, among others.

But the label began to suffer financial difficulties amid increased competition from well-funded brands owned by fashion conglomerates LVMH and Kering, and Cavalli stepped down as creative director in 2013.

Two years later, Milan-based private equity group Clessidra bought a 90-percent stake in the company, but a restructuring failed to reverse losses.

After filing for administration and closing its US stores, the fashion group was bought in November 2019 by Vision Investments, the private investment company of Dubai real-estate billionaire Hussain Sajwani.

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