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France to see ‘exceptional’ year for Champagne despite record heat

Champagnes from 2022 are expected to be "exceptional" despite record heat and drought in France over the summer, according to producers of the prestigious sparkling wine.

France to see 'exceptional' year for Champagne despite record heat
Bottles from the French champagne house Bollinger. (Photo by BERTRAND GUAY / AFP)

Grape harvesting took place in August — earlier than usual.

Both the quality and quantity this year are comparable to vintage years 2002 and 1982, the head of the champagne producers’ union SGV told a press conference on Thursday.

The Champagne region suffered from water shortages like the rest of France but rain “arrived at the right moment during the cycle”, Laurent Panigai told reporters.

This summer was France’s second hottest on record, with average temperatures 2.3C above the norm.

This, coupled with water shortages, caused major problems for livestock farmers.

But the abundant sunshine looks set to deliver a windfall for many wine makers.

Producers in the Bourgogne region are also suggesting this year’s harvest could be comparable in quality to 1959, one of the best years of the last century.

READ MORE: ‘The price of glory’ – Meet the Champagne industry lawyers charged with protecting the brand name

Champagne producers were authorised to pick up to 12,000 kilogrammes of grapes per hectare, the highest level for 15 years.

This is set to enable them to replenish their stocks after a disappointing year in 2021.

The hot weather helped reduce diseases such as mildew. The fungal growth wreaked havoc on the 2021 French wine crop, which was also hit by late frosts.

“Many of the greatest years come at the same time as large (production) volumes,” Panigai said.

Drinkers can expect to sample 2022’s champagne vintage in 2024, as most bottles are kept in cellars for between 15 months and three years.

The champagne industry was hit badly by the Covid-19 pandemic, which shut restaurants across the world and led to most social events being cancelled.

But it rebounded in 2021, posting record sales of €5.5 billion.

France is the world’s second largest wine producer, after Italy.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Did Austria really invent France’s iconic croissant?

It's often said that Austria in fact invented the croissant - and some even claim that Marie Antoinette brought it to France - but the real story is a little more complicated than that.

Did Austria really invent France's iconic croissant?

The croissant is probably the food product most closely associated with France (tied with the baguette) but is it even French? Well, it depends on how you look at it.

The French croissant is usually credited to a couple of Austrian migrants – August Zang and Ernest Schwartzer, who opened a bakery in Paris in the 1830s. They specialised in the pastries and cakes of their homeland and are generally agreed to have popularised the kipferl in France.

Listen to the team from The Local discussing croissants in the latest episode of the Talking France podcast. Listen here or on the link below

The kipferl shows up in records in Austria at least as early as the 13th century, so it definitely pre-dates the croissant.

In the 1800s the French went crazy for Austrian pastries, which is why we talk about viennoiseries (referencing Austrian capital Vienna) to refer to breakfast pastries such as croissants, pain au chocolat and pain au raisin.

But is a kipferl a croissant? The original recipe called for the roll to be made of bread, not pastry, and modern recipes call for a light yeast dough, often scented with vanilla.

Delicious, undoubtedly, but a croissaint . . .

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy created a recipe using puff pastry instead.

His instructions specified that the croissant be made of rolled puff pastry, laminated with butter to create layers – and this is how modern day croissants are made.

The pastry layers are what creates the distinctive crumb-scattering deliciousness that is a croissant.

So did the Austrians invent the croissant or did they just invent a curved bread roll? Or should France and Austria share the credit and chalk this one up to another great success from international cooperation?

One thing that is certainly French is the name – croissant in French simply means ‘crescent’ and refers to the shape of the breakfast pastry.

It’s used in other contexts too – for example Le Mouvement international de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge – is how the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is referred to in French.

And Marie Antoinette?

This historical rumour is almost certainly rubbish.

Although Marie Antoinette was indeed Austrian, the first record of the croissant does not appear in Paris until at least 40 years after her death and the two Austrian bakers credited with introducing the croissant weren’t even born when she met her end on the guillotine in 1793.

Also, she never said ‘let them eat cake’.

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