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CINEMA

Made in Madrid: The Spanish tailors outfitting world cinema

With a vast wardrobe catering to everything from "House of the Dragon" to "The Crown", Spain's Peris Costumes has carved out a well-tailored niche for itself, renting costumes to producers across the globe.

Made in Madrid: The Spanish tailors outfitting world cinema
Helmets from ancient period that have been used in film productions are stored at the Peris Costumes company, in Algete, northern Madrid. (Photo by Thomas COEX / AFP)

“Here, you can find everything,” says CEO Javier Toledo showing off a vast array of costumes and accessories – from suits of armour to frock coats, sailor suits and monastic robes.

All around him mannequins dressed in 18th-century gowns stand next to posters of the many films his company has worked on in recent years.

“There are starting to be rather a lot,” admits the 63-year-old entrepreneur with white hair and a neatly trimmed goatee whose business is based in Algete, a small town just outside Madrid.

Since Toledo took over 10 years ago, the business has been transformed.

What began as a small family firm set up by tailors specialising in theatre costumes in the eastern coastal city of Valencia in 1856 has become a world leader in costume hire for the film industry.

And it’s a success story closely linked to the rise of on-demand streaming giants such as Netflix, Disney+ and HBO.

“We have responded to the changes that have taken place in the market,” he told AFP, pointing notably to the explosion in popularity “of the series”.

When he bought the company, Peris Costumes only had a dozen staff, all based in Madrid.

Today, the group employs 250 people and has offices or workshops in 15 capital cities, including Budapest, Berlin, Paris and Mexico City.

“During the first half of the year, we were involved in almost 600 productions. And by the end of the year we’re hoping that will be more than 1,000,” says marketing director Myriam Wais.

An employee of Peris Costumes company tidies up jewellery and accessories from different periods to hire for the film industry. (Photo by Thomas COEX / AFP)

Elizabeth Taylor’s ‘Cleopatra’ jewellery

Among the films and series that have chosen the company are numerous super-productions which are very demanding in terms of period or fantasy costumes.

Whether it’s “The Rings of Power”, “Mulan” or “Marco Polo”, many productions prefer to rent costumes rather than invest in making their own.

“Trying to make (the costumes) from scratch is practically impossible because of the time and costs involved,” says Toledo.

And producers appreciate “having costumes that have been worn in and aged with time”, he explains.

To expand its catalogue, Peris Costumes has in recent years has bought up millions of gowns, hats, pairs of shoes and uniforms from studio giants like Warner Bros.

And all these complement its own in-house collections put together in the workshops of its costume designers.

“In total, we have more than 10 million articles” of clothing and accessories, says Wais, reeling off a list of the most popular styles and eras.

It is, she says, “the biggest wardrobe in the world”.

In a nearby room, four garment makers are working with pieces of leather, with a hammer-like maul and pliers on hand.

“Right now, we’re working on our inventory but there are also orders,” she says.

In another room is the jewellery workshop, where close to 20,000 pieces are stored, including the jewels worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the 1963 epic “Cleopatra” and the papal cross worn by Jude Law in the 2016 series “The Young Pope”.

CEO of Peris Costumes Javier Toledo poses next to costumes to hire for the film industry, stored in one of the company’s warehouses. A small family business set up by tailors specialising in theatre costumes in Valencia in 1856, Peris Costumes has been transformed into one of the world leaders in costume hire for the film industry, a success story closely linked to the rise of on-demand streaming giants. (Photo by Thomas COEX / AFP)

Damaged but never discarded

At Peris Costumes, the rule is to never throw anything away, not even if it is damaged during filming.

“We have an area called ‘The Walking Dead’ in which we put everything that is broken or damaged but that could be reused,” Wais says, the term referencing a TV series about zombie apocalypse survivors.

With demand showing little sign of ebbing, this Spanish outfitter has recently started digitising some of its catalogue with the help of a studio equipped with 144 high-resolution cameras.

Dubbed Peris Digital, this service lets production companies “create 3D images” of costumes which can be used “during post-production”, Wais says.

And this “virtual wardrobe” has also proved popular with the makers of video games, the company says.

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ECONOMY

Spain’s fast fashion empire Inditex posts record net profit for 2023

Zara owner Inditex, the world's biggest fashion retailer, on Wednesday reported its highest-ever profits in 2023 thanks to buoyant sales and its policy of raising prices.

Spain's fast fashion empire Inditex posts record net profit for 2023

Its net profit reached €5.4 billion ($5.9 billion) last year, up 30 percent from €4.1 billion in 2022, which also was a record for the fashion giant whose eight brands include younger chain Pull&Bear and upmarket label Massimo Dutti.

The figure, which comes after a solid fourth quarter, was in line with the expectations of analysts polled by financial data firm FactSet, who predicted profits of €5.36 billion.

Inditex has been able “to take advantage of the opportunities to keep growing profitably,” said CEO Oscar Garcia Maceiras in a statement.

The group, which is based in the northwestern Galicia region, pointed to dynamic sales which hit a record €35.9 billion, showing a 10.4 percent increase on the year earlier.

READ ALSO: Spain’s Mango clothing chain ramps up global expansion

The results came despite a complicated global backdrop of geopolitical tensions and persistently high inflation that has weighed on purchasing power.

But such pressures seem to have had little impact with the group posting a string of records and performing well on Madrid’s Ibex 35 stock exchange.

Marta Ortega, daughter of multi-billionaire founder Amancio Ortega, took over as chair in early 2022.

Over the last year, Inditex shares have added more than 40 percent to reach 40 euros.

The results raised the market capitalisation of the Spanish retail giant to more than 127 billion, with the company saying it would pay shareholders a dividend of €1.54.

The figure, which is 28 percent higher than in 2022, is the highest in the group’s history.

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