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CULTURE

A guide for how to enjoy fall in France for homesick Americans

Looking to recreate American autumn festivities while living in France? Here are some of The Local's tips for how to avoid the seasonal homesickness this year.

Published: 21 September 2022 09:32 CEST
Updated: 18 October 2023 16:06 CEST
A guide for how to enjoy fall in France for homesick Americans
A person holds a hollowed-out pumpkin in front of the Trocadero gardens in Paris in the 1990s (Photo by PASCAL GUYOT / AFP)

For many, fall or autumn is a sacred time in the United States, marked by spooky cobwebs, weekends filled with visits to pumpkin patches, jugs of apple cider, and searching for the perfect Halloween costume. 

It is an easy time of year to feel homesick for Americans living in France, especially when it feels like you are missing out on holidays like Halloween and Thanksgiving with friends and family at home.

READ MORE: Readers’ tips: How to create an authentic Thanksgiving in France

While it might never be the same as a New England fall, here are some tips on how to make autumn in France feel a bit more like home:

For when you miss pumpkin patches:

Yes this is possible in France! Pumpkins grow in fields across central France, and they are available in most supermarkets once the fall season has begun. However, if you are looking for a traditional pumpkin patch experience, that might be a bit trickier to find. If you devote yourself to a bit of research, then you will likely be able to find a ‘Fête de la Citrouille‘ or ‘Foire à la citrouille‘ (Pumpkin festivals) near you. These are more like fall fairs, complete with ‘heaviest pumpkin’ competitions and food stands.

While these might be a bit different from what you are used to, they are a great way to enjoy pumpkins (in a French way).

Many of these events will be announced on Facebook, so you can start by searching there. 

If you live in the Paris region there are a few pumpkin patches not too far outside of the city. The ‘Fermes de Gally‘ host a yearly pumpkin picking and carving festival. You could also visit “Ferme du Logis” or the “Vergers de Champlain.”

For when you want to celebrate Halloween:

You have a few options for trick-or-treating, if that’s your thing. You can always organise a private event with some other Halloween enthusiasts. Though, keep in mind that in France people say “des bonbons ou un sort” instead of ‘trick-or-treat’ in English.

The other option is to see whether your local mairie is hosting an event. While Halloween is definitely not as popular in France as it is in the United States, it is becoming more common. 

If you are looking for a more official, organised event, you might consider going to the “Disney Halloween Festival.” During the festivities, the ‘villains’ take over the park, which is fully decorated for Halloween. When you enter the park, you’ll be greeted by smiling scarecrows with pumpkins on their heads, lanterns lighting up the park, and characters in ‘scary’ (kid-friendly) costumes.

During the actual Halloween weekend and night, the park hosts dedicated soirées. Tickets usually go for upwards of 70€ per person.

Another option, particularly if you have older kids looking for a scarier Halloween, might be Parc Asterix. Each year, usually for the entirety of the month of October, the park is decked out in autumn colours with pumpkins, corn, and even straw bales. If you want to take younger children, you can go to the ‘Petit frisson’ (small scare) section. 

For when you miss pumpkin flavoured everything:

You do not have to give up pumpkin spice if you stay in France this fall! Starbucks (with locations across the country) sells pumpkin spice lattes.

If you want to make your own PSL, you can find ‘pumpkin spice’ in France (with a bit of effort). Carrefour reportedly sells the seasoning (see HERE). For the truly determined, you can find pumpkin spice on French Amazon too. Otherwise the French alternative of ‘quatre épices’ can come close.

The best bet for finding pumpkin spice – for all your baking and coffee needs – is to see if there is a local American épicerie or store near you. You might try the “Brooklyn Fizz” store in Lyon; “The Great McCoy” market in Paris; or the “Épicerie Americaine” in Bordeaux.

If there are not any, you can always try the online store “My American Market.”

For pumpkin scented candles, you can either replace with another fall scent (search: “bougie parfumées automne”) or you can order a Yankee candle online – see HERE. 

Finally, if you are looking to make a homemade pumpkin pie, consider doing so with an actual pumpkin. Pumpkin purée is hard to come by in France, but chopping up the pumpkin yourself is certainly one way to satisfy the craving.

For when you miss apple picking and cider:

In France, Normandy and Brittany are known for apple production, with their own apple cider traditions. Take a trip to Normandy and enjoy apple and cider festivals – learn more HERE.  

READ MORE: French figures: The drink that sparked a regional crockery battle

While the festivals might be lacking in apple cider donuts, you can always try your hand in making some homemade. Most of the ingredients should be accessible, though you might struggle a bit early in the season with locating nutmeg (muscade en français). Allegedly, Carrefour also sells it online year-round.

As the fall season goes on, most large grocery store chains ought to stock up.

For apple pie cravings, consider trying the French equivalent: tarte aux pommes. Though it might be exactly the same as American apple pie with vanilla ice cream on top, it is still delicious and available in most boulangeries. 

If you live in the Paris area, or you are visiting, you can check out Boneshaker Donuts. The owners combine French and American traditions, and always have a full fall assortment. 

For when you miss American football:

Another source of homesickness for many Americans is the lack of American football on television in France. 

If you have a VPN on your computer, you might not run into this issue as much, but for those looking to simply watch football on cable TV, you have some options as well.

Comparitech recommends France’s two official NFL broadcasters: L’Equipe and beIN Sports. L’Equipe reportedly airs every Sunday game and playoff live, including the Super Bowl. It is free to use, so you do not need to purchase a premium subscription to view NFL games. 

Another tip might be to visit Irish, British or Scottish pubs in your area. Oftentimes, they will have access to sports channels that air NFL games too. 

For college football, Hulu’s live TV option should allow you to stream most games. 

Unfortunately, the ESPN + subscription will locate your IP address, so this is not possible without a VPN. However, you can purchase the NFL Game Pass and use it from France. You can choose between watching the Redzone or simply a single, specific game. This also allows you to split your screen, so you can watch multiple games at once.

For when you are just generally homesick:

While this might not be the perfect antidote, it might be an opportunity to make the most out of France’s fall traditions. You can start creating new hobbies and pastimes that might just become your craving this time next year. Visit a spooky French cemetery, go to your local market and buy fresh squash and Brussels sprouts, sip mulled wine, or even go out foraging for mushrooms.

The Local put together a full guide to autumn in France HERE.

READ MORE: 11 ways to make the most of autumn in France

If you are missing the foliage, consider going for a hike or weekend trip to any of these French locations that are known for stunning fall views. 

At the end of the day, if you really cannot handle being far from home during autumn, consider simply visiting the US. While flights to the US are always going to be pricey, the trip is usually cheaper in autumn than during peak times, such as summer vacation or Christmas. This off-season trip might be what you (and your wallet) needs.

Do you have any tips? Let us know in the comments below.

Member comments

  1. I have found that the spice combination named “quatre épices” is a combination of the spices used for pumpkin pies. It also was great in a home-made pumpkin spice latté.

    One can purchase the wedges of pumpkin in most grocery stores in the fall…bake with the skin on for about half an hour and then put in blender for the “pumpkin” in the pumpkin spice latté….a little stringy, keep blending!

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MOVING TO FRANCE

8 books to read before you move to France

Before you move to France - or spend an extended holiday here - you might want to brush up on French culture and history. Here are eight recommendations from the team at The Local France.

Published: 16 April 2024 14:57 CEST
8 books to read before you move to France

A Bite-Sized History of France: Gastronomic Tales of Revolution, War, and Enlightenment

Start off with a light course. Multiple readers of The Local have recommended ‘A Bite-Sized History of France’ by Stéphane Henaut and Jeni Mitchell, as it is easy to read in small snippets.

Written by a French cheese-maker and an American historian, the book gives you a manageable overview of French history and gastronomy, beginning with the Gauls’ drinking habits. You’ll learn plenty of fun facts to share at the dinner table (for instance: Norman is short for Norseman, a reference to the Vikings who settled northern France).

Reader Julia Gray said in a previous survey that it “combines stories about French food and history. A great book for a Francophile.”

A Year in the Merde

Published in 2003 by Stephen Clark, you might be tempted to dismiss this funny novel that is now over two decades old, but it still has a lot to say about France.

Fictional Brit Paul West goes to spend a year in France, right around the time of the invasion of Iraq, when the French and their anglophone counterparts were not too happy with one another. Paul tries to assimilate but finds himself struggling to adjust to French culture, especially its bureaucracy (something many foreigners in France can relate to).

Of course, these days Paul would need a visa. 

The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris 

Paris women are often the subject of stereotypes, presumed to be white, thin and effortlessly stylish. English-language women’s magazines still try to sell readers on tips about ‘how to be more French’.

But Lindsey Tramuta, journalist and author of ‘The New Parisienne’, disagrees with these presumptions.

In her book, she explores the diversity of Paris, hoping to break away from the monolithic view of Parisian women with vignettes of modern Parisiennes who hail from different backgrounds and cultures.

READ MORE: ‘Romanticised and commodified’ – why France is rejecting the ‘Paris woman’ cliché

Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong

Authors Jean Nadeau and Julie Barlow are on a mission to decipher the mysteries of France, as they reveal the foundations of French culture and social cues. From land and food to privacy and language, Nadeau and Barlow try to explain the most puzzling aspects of French life. 

Like ‘A Year in the Merde’, this book is a little dated these days; it was published in 2003. Some of the norms the authors explore might feel distant from life in 2024, while others remain just as pertinent today as they did 20 years ago. 

‘Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong’ is both a time capsule and a timeless exploration of French culture. For instance, the authors discuss French concerns about globalisation and anti-American sentiment. While young French people might love American fast-food chains like McDonald’s these days, there are still semi-frequent rows over the encroaching ‘anglicismes’ taking over the French language.

The Bonjour Effect: The Secret Codes of French Conversation Revealed

As you learn French, you’ll also learn that there are a lot of rules around conversations. Politesse requires that you greet everyone with a bonjour before getting on with your conversation.

Once you get the hang of these rules, speaking French will feel a lot less daunting. You can begin by reading ‘The Bonjour Effect’ to decode French conversation.

History of Modern France: From the Revolution to the War with Terror

Veteran journalist and historian Jonathan Fenby, has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to France – so much so that he was awarded the Légion d’honneur “for his contributions promoting Anglo-French understanding”.

READ MORE: Readers recommend: The best books, TV series and podcasts about France

Looking at 200 years of history, Fenby asks ‘what does France stand for’, as he tracks the country from its first revolution and forward through subsequent revolutions, empires, returns to monarchy, wars with Germany, and the post-war era, decolonisation and the bits of stability interspersed. 

As with most countries, understanding history and the founding myth (in France’s case: the Revolution) helps to understand the people, government and what they aspire toward. 

Big Pig, Little Pig: A Year on a Smallholding in South-West France

For those looking to explore life in rural France and animal husbandry, ‘Big Pig, Little Pig’ by Jacqueline Yallop is a good place to start. 

The author starts out with her dream of moving to France and raising two pigs, which will eventually be slaughtered for food. She finds herself struggling with the decision as she grows closer to the pigs. 

Reader of The Local Margaret O’Hare suggested it in a previous survey. She said: “[It is a] beautiful read, adored by the Francophiles in my life that I have given it to. My husband isn’t a great reader but even he gobbled it up. It is both a debunking and a celebration of life in rural France. Meat-eating foodies will be enthralled to the end.”

Fixing France: How to Repair a Broken Republic

Foreigners tend to view France with rose-tinted glasses, so perhaps it is best to take those off ahead of time and learn about some of the not-so-positive realities of French life in ‘Fixing France: How to Repair a Broken Republic’ by Nabila Ramdani, a French journalist with Algerian origins.

Ramdani, who grew up in the Paris region, is able to diagnose the country’s shortcomings and how it often fails to live up to its motto ‘Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité’ – whether that be from terrorism, social inequality, racial and religious discrimination, or the rising influence of the far-right.

And while she can pinpoint France’s problems, Ramdani can also prescribe solutions, looking to a brighter future for the French Republic.

Do you agree or disagree with any of the books listed here? Let us know in the comments below.

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