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GERMANY EXPLAINED

What is ‘crystal Mett’ and why is Germany talking about it?

A slip of the tongue during a serious speech on drugs by Bavarian leader Markus Söder has prompted many laughs and a debate on the German meat delicacy of Mett.

Published: 13 September 2022 16:46 CEST
Updated: 13 September 2022 17:48 CEST
A 'Mett hedgehog' in Dresden in 2019
A 'Mett hedgehog' in Dresden in 2019. Photo: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-Zentralbild | Sebastian Kahnert

What happened?

We’ve all been there. It’s very easy to pronounce a foreign word the wrong way, only for it to turn into something hilarious. 

That’s what happened to Bavarian state premier Markus Söder at the weekend during the Conservative party conference when he slammed the planned legalisation of cannabis by Germany’s coalition government, made up of the Social Democrats, Greens and FDP. 

During his speech, he wanted to emphasise that legalising one drug could lead to harder drugs becoming more accepted, such as crystal meth. However, he did not pronounce the English “th” correctly and instead said “crystal mett”.

This reminded lots of people in Germany – including German Health Minister Karl Lauterbach – of the chopped raw meat – Mett – popular in some regions.

Health Minister Karl Lauterbach tweeted: “Despite this scathing criticism from Markus Söder, (that) the legalisation of cannabis promotes Chrystal-Mett (sic) consumption, we have no hesitation. At least vegetarians remain safe.”

What is Mett anyway?

Mett is minced raw pork and is a fairly popular food in Germany – at least for meat eaters. It’s combined with salt and pepper, and sometimes garlic or onion. 

When it’s brought out on a plate, you might think that it’s ready to be fried up and turned into hamburgers. But that’s not what usually happens. The meat is eaten absolutely raw. 

During a buffet it might be shaped into a big pink mound. But – alarmingly for foreigners – it is often made into a hedgehog which is known as a Mettigel or sometimes Hackepeterigel or Hackepeterschwein.

Germans normally eat it on a bread roll (Mettbrötchen) or with sliced bread, as well as salad. In some parts of Southern Germany Mett is served on a Lye roll, and is known as a Mettstange.

It can also be fashioned into other shapes or letters. The far-right Alternative for Germany (AfD) political party made a huge plate of it with their initials on top at the Berlin state election in 2016.

The Alternative for Germany (AfD) election party in Berlin on Sept. 18, 2016.

The Alternative for Germany (AfD) election party in Berlin on September 18th, 2016. Photo: picture alliance / dpa | Wolfgang Kumm

The name of the food is said to come from the Low German mett, meaning “chopped minced pork without bacon”, or from the Old Saxon meti for “food”. It is also known as Hackepeter in some regions. 

Ok! Is Germany legalising any drugs?

The German coalition government plans to allow the controlled distribution of cannabis among adults, although we don’t know when this will happen.

Politicians have said the laws in Germany could be similar to marijuana legalisation in Canada. Cannabis could then be regulated and taxed in Germany, with over €5 billion a year in potential tax revenues.

However, there may be some hurdles. On Monday, a legal analysis by the German parliament’s research service warned that a move to legalise cannabis would go against European regulations. 

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FOOD AND DRINK

‘People are eating less meat’: How Germany is embracing vegan food

Germany's second-largest supermarket chain has just opened its first vegan store in Berlin. Could the country see more vegan stores in future as more consumers buy in to plant-based foods?

Published: 19 April 2024 13:15 CEST
'People are eating less meat': How Germany is embracing vegan food

German grocer REWE opened its first vegan store on Warshauer Bridge in Berlin’s Friedrichshain neighbourhood last week.

‘REWE voll pflanzlich’ (wholly plant-based) is a relatively small store, but it offers more than 2,700 vegan products, according to information provided by the company. Unlike the REWE’s roughly 3,800 other locations, no meat, dairy or other animal products will be sold there.

In comparison, a regular REWE location often carries up to 1,400 vegan items – a selection that has grown in recent years. Milk alternatives and fresh convenience products in particular have proven to be popular items. 

REWE Group has previously seen success with plant-based franchises. Its Austrian subsidiary Billa, launched Billa ‘Pflanzilla‘ in September 2022.

At Warschauer Straße 33, the first ‘REWE voll pflanzlich’ is planted in established vegan territory. The location was previously home to a Veganz store, which had been Europe’s first vegan supermarket chain. Veganz sold its retail business in 2023, saying it planned to focus on product development.

How is the neighbourhood reacting?

Berlin resident, Leona, stopped by the store with her friend on their way to the East Side Gallery.

“I think it’s great,” she told The Local. “Here I can find things that they don’t carry at a normal REWE store.”

She added that the location in Friedrichshain makes sense, because the neighbourhood is home to a lot of vegan restaurants and veggie-friendly residents.

Lilla Fufavi, founder of Berlin Fashion Tours, stopped by the store while leading a street tour focused on sustainable commerce.

Bringing a tour group to REWE was perhaps a bold move, as it was Fufavi’s first time visiting the store herself, but she told The Local that her guests enjoyed the quick stop. 

“They loved the idea that you just go in, and without any effort you can be vegan. There is no other option,” Fufavi said.

She added that, as one of the biggest players in the industry, the fact that REWE is promoting more plant-based options shows how the industry is taking steps toward sustainability. 

READ ALSO: EXPLAINED – Why and how to start a zero-waste lifestyle in Germany

interior REWE voll pflazlich

The new REWE location is relatively small but offers 2,700 vegan foods and products. Photo provided by REWE / pivopix Christoph Grosse

Is Germany ready to leave Die Wurst behind?

Traditional German faire is known for its focus on Fleisch, like sausages,  meaty stews or pork shoulder. While local favourites like Thüringer Bratwurst certainly wont be going anywhere anytime soon, meat consumption per capita in the Bundesrepublik has been falling in recent years. 

According to preliminary data from Germany’s Information Centre for Agriculture (BZL), the per capita consumption of meat fell by 430 grams in 2023, to 51.6 kilograms – the lowest value recorded since the beginning of the survey. 

The same cannot be said of the US, where meat consumption continues to grow. In the UK, meat consumption is falling, but not nearly as dramatically as in Germany.

Interestingly, Germany’s previous fixation on meat has arguably positioned the country to be more willing to embrace plant-based options going forward. 

Many younger Germans have seen their elder relatives suffer diet-related illnesses, such as heart disease or cancer. Meanwhile research confirming the positive effects of more plant-based diets has gotten more attention.

The German society for nutrition (DGE) recommends a diet that consists of three-quarters plant-based foods. 

“Roughly speaking, people eat too much meat and drink too much alcohol, too few whole grains, too few fruits and vegetables, and too few legumes and nuts,” Astrid Donalie, press speaker for the DGE told The Local.

READ ALSO: Deutsche Bahn ‘goes green’ with vegan menu and porcelain coffee cups

Vegan or vegetarian diets tend to be more common among Germany’s younger generations, which suggests that the country’s meat consumption per capita may continue to fall for some time.

Considering the trend, REWE’s first fully vegan store may prove to be an early sign of a looming market shift as Germany’s food manufacturers and retailers ramp up efforts to capitalise on growing demand for plant-based foods.

“When it comes to their diet, Germans pay more attention to their health, the impact on the environment or the welfare of animals,” said Minister of Food and Agriculture, Cem Özdemir, of the Greens. “Today, many people are eating less meat, but more consciously – and all the figures suggest that the trend will continue.”

He added that this presents opportunities to make Germany’s food supply chains more sustainable, humane and equitable: “We should take advantage of the new market opportunities. Keeping fewer animals better…At the same time, we are counting on farmers being able to make good money with plant-based alternatives in addition to animal products.”

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