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SPANISH TRADITIONS

Priest outlaws coffins at Spain’s strange ‘Living Dead’ festival

The new priest of a Galician village famed for holding a 'Living Dead' procession in which live people are paraded around in open coffins has banned this year's bizarre spectacle, claiming that it has more to do with witchcraft than religion.

Priest outlaws coffins at Spain's strange 'Living Dead' festival
A 'living dead' woman is carried in an open casquet by her relatives during the annual "Procession of the Shrouds", but not without first protecting herself from the sun by holding an umbrella and wearing sunglasses. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

The Os Mortos Vivos (Living Dead) fiesta held in the village of Santa Marta de Ribarteme in Galicia (northwest Spain) will not be quite as peculiar this year.

That’s because the village’s new priest has decided to ban the day’s star tradition – the Procession of the Shrouds – which sees living people carried around in open coffins through the packed streets.

Usually those who ‘play dead’ in the caskets are locals who have escaped death in real life and it’s their relatives who carry the coffins on their shoulders.

But according to el cura (the priest), the custom has lost its religious significance and morphed into something more sinister.

People who have escaped death in real life lie in caskets and are carried in procession by relatives as a gesture of gratitude. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

Speaking to La Sexta TV channel, Father Francisco Javier explained he was against the tradition because, whilst it was popular, it generates “a lot of superstition, a lot of witchcraft, a lot of nonsense”.

The vast majority of Ribarteme’s villagers don’t want to lose this strange ritual which takes place every year on July 29th on the feast day of the local parish’s most important saint, Santa Marta.

One man described the decision as “horrible… because I’ve been coming here [for the event] since I was a boy”.

“It’s only the priest who wants to ban it, it’s a disgrace because it’s a tradition that’s always been like this,” another woman commented.

The Mayor of Santa Marta de Ribarteme, Xosé Manuel Rodríguez, recognised the event as being of cultural interest, and was more optimistic about recovering the spooky tradition.

“We are sure that if it will return,” Rodríguez told La Sexta. “We are going to recover a tradition that all of us would like to see continue”.

A smiling woman is carried in a coffin by relatives during the annual “Procession of the Shrouds”. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

Unknown origins

The peculiar tradition of carrying living people around in open coffins has long taken place in the neighbouring Pontevedra villages of As Neves and Santa Marta de Ribarteme.

Some say it came about as a way for people to give thanks to Saint Martha for saving them or a loved one from death, an illness or an accident – or to implore her to do so in future. 

But no one is truly sure about the procession’s origins.

According to a book about the casket carrying published in As Neves, the tradition could date back to the Medieval Crusades. 

Nobles who left Galicia for the Middle East discovered in France the story of Saint Martha, whose brother Lazarus was raised from the dead when Jesus visited their home, according to the Bible’s account.

When they returned, they thanked the saint for having spared them from death by occupying their own coffins, according to this book.  

Expect to see plenty of emotion at the Procession of the Shrouds, even from the ‘living dead’. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

Another explanation is offered by Carlos Hernández, a sociologist who wrote a thesis about the procession.

In the past, people would buy their own coffin while they were still alive when they had the means or when a family member was ill, he said.   

If a seriously ill person survived, they would donate their coffin to the local parish for those who could not afford one.

The procession is similar to other rituals in Spain that depict the fight being good and evil, life and death, according to Hernández.

“Its about daring to stare death in the face, looking at Evil, so that life wins,” he argued.

Another village in Galicia also stages a procession with coffins, but in this case they are empty.

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SPANISH TRADITIONS

IN IMAGES: Fiesta and fervour at Spain’s El Rocío pilgrimage

If there's a tradition that shows how partying and religious devotion are deep-seated in the culture of Spain's southern Andalusia region, that's the 1-million-people pilgrimage and festivities of El Rocío.

IN IMAGES: Fiesta and fervour at Spain's El Rocío pilgrimage

La Romería del Rocío is the biggest and most famous of Andalulsia’s romerías.

It takes place on the weekend of Pentecost, the fiftieth day after Easter Sunday when hundreds of thousands (often closer to a million people) come to take part in the religious celebrations of the Virgin of El Rocío.

During the days before Pentecost, devotees make their way on foot, horseback and in horse-drawn decorated carriages to El Rocío, a hamlet located within the municipality of Almonte in the province of Huelva, around 80 km away from Seville.

Pilgrims of the Triana brotherhood cross the Quema river on their carriages drawn by oxen on their way to the village of El Rocío. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)

They come from Huelva, Seville and Cádiz and towns across the region to converge in El Rocío singing traditional flamenco cantos and coplas on the way.

Pilgrims usually take between two and ten days to reach El Rocío. The Brotherhood of Huelva, who have a shorter journey than other pilgrims, take two days to complete the 61.5km journey.

Between 25,000 and 30,000 horses take part in the romería, some of which have controversially died during the pilgrimage over the years due to heat, exhaustion or lack of water.

At night, the travellers strike camps along the route with bonfires, singing, dancing and feasting until the early hours.

A pilgrim places a baby against the effigy of the Rocío Virgin- (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)

By Saturday, all the religious brotherhoods meet for a procession to the shrine but it isn’t until Monday morning that the statue of the Virgin Mary is taken out of her shrine and paraded through the town.

READ ALSO: ‘Mucho arte’ – Why do Andalusians say they have a lot of ‘art’?

This is done so after hordes of worshippers engage in the “salto de la reja” (jumping of the fence), when around 3am in the morning they actually climb over the altar railings to reach the statue and carry it above their heads.

Pilgrims gather en masse in the main square of El Rocío village. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)

El Rocío dates back to the 17th century, resulting from the supposed apparition of the Virgin Mary over an olive tree in Almonte two centuries earlier, as claimed by a local shepherd.

Around 55 percent of Spaniards define themselves as Catholic (down from 91 percent in 1978), evidence that Spain has become less and less traditionally Catholic.

A Rocío pilgrim touches a figure representing the Virgin Mary. (Photo by JORGE GUERRERO / AFP)

However, cultural Catholicism is still alive, especially in Andalusia. In other words, andaluces in particular adhere to the cultural traditions of being baptised, doing their first communion, confession, confirmation, and so on, and then maintain a more ‘social’ relationship with the church by attending Catholic festivals, weddings, funerals, and baptisms but little else.

So despite the apparent religious intensity and superstition that Andalusians display during Holy Week and other centuries-old traditions like El Rocío, they’re not necessarily practicing Catholics who go to mass every Sunday, especially the younger generations.

READ MORE: How Catholic are Spaniards nowadays?

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