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FOOD AND DRINK

‘Call the restaurant’: Your tips for being vegetarian or vegan in France

Wondering how to successfully avoid meat in France, while still getting to enjoy the fine cuisine? Our readers have some advice for you.

'Call the restaurant': Your tips for being vegetarian or vegan in France
The organic (bio) fresh section of an hypermarket store of French retail giant Carrefour, in Villeneuve-la-garenne, near Paris, on December 7, 2016. (Photo by Thomas SAMSON / AFP)

Trying to avoid meat and cheese in France is often seen as a lost cause. Often in France, you might be told that a meal does not qualify as a meal if it does not contain a protein (i.e. meat).

As of 2020, only 2.2 percent of the French people reported having “adopted a meat-free diet (pescetarian, vegetarian or vegan),” and an additional 24 percent said they try to limit their meat consumption, preferring to classify themselves as “flexitarians.” The remaining 74 percent of French people, according to the survey, are meat-eaters.

So, we asked our readers their advice for being vegan and/or vegetarian in France:

Tips for shopping

Bio shops were resoundingly popular amongst our vegetarian and vegan readers – almost every respondent recommended shopping either in the ‘bio’ section of your local grocery store, or seeking out a specific ‘bio’ store in your area. For reader Per Axel, these stores are essential. They explained that these stores can also be a good resource for finding other vegan or vegetarian friendly spots in the area:

“I always stop by a local Bio and ask for advice,” Axel said.

Chris Welch, among others, was pleasantly surprised to find large supermarkets’ ‘bio’ sections to be shockingly well-equipped:  “When I moved to France, I was surprised to find tofu easily available in the bio section of most supermarkets and this is a good place to shop for basics. The range of plant -based food has also increased significantly over recent years (at least in my city – it may be different in the countryside).” He added that the bio specific stores can be a bit pricier, but they have good options. 

However, it can still be a challenge to find some specific vegan products, like nutritional yeast, for example. Mary in Lyon explained that she has been successful in finding the ‘basics’ but that niche items is still a bit of a challenge.

Finally, baguettes! Regina Sinsky-Crosby, who lives in Bayonne, France, recommended heading straight to the boulangeries: “Baguettes are always your vegan friend! We will grab a couple with hummus, mustard and olives for le pique-nique.”

Finding the best stores and restaurants

Many readers use the app “Happy Cow” to find vegan and vegetarian friendly restaurants/ stores in their area. The app can also be found in website form, and it is a crowd-sourced collection of recommended vegan friendly places near you. It offers an interactive map that allows you to set specific filters in order to find exactly what you are looking for. The website also has a blog page and community page, which allow you to interact with other vegans or vegetarians in the area. 

Per Axel said that they have found online groups to be particularly helpful in finding the best spots, so considering Facebook groups like “Veggie & Vegan Food in France” could be a good place to start. 

Ensuring a positive restaurant experience

Wondering how to make sure you don’t end up with lardons in your salad? Our readers had some tips for that. First, you should definitely do your research and try to call ahead to explain your dietary restrictions.

“We have called ahead to high-end restaurants for vegetarian meals and have never been turned down. I think the French pride in cooking has lead to a culture shift enabling seasonal vegetables and fruits to take the spotlight,” said Regina Sinsky-Crosby. She also recommended ‘accidentally vegetarian’ restaurants, especially those that are immigrant owned. Three other readers echoed this advice, saying that Asian and Italian restaurants are typically safe bets for being to find some meat-free options. 

“Ask,” said Lynn Crosby, who lived in France from 2012-2020. This seems to be the best, and most practical thing our readers suggest. Lynn said that when she asked, she found that French chefs “love a challenge.” While some readers have had negative experiences with chefs who are unwilling to adjust the menu, many others have found chefs who are up for a challenge!

Member comments

  1. I wanted to arrange a very (very) special lunch at Le Grand Vefour, Paris. I emailed them with details of what we as lacto-ovo vegetarians of 40+ years’ standing and received by quick return an absolute guarantee that we could eat in full confidence.
    One asks. especially at Vefour prices. (But oh, the decor!)
    We also had a very good vegetarian lunch at Maçeo in the financial district.
    No problems if you check in advance. You can always not book if they don’t understand.
    Only ever had one issue in France, the chef lectured me about what vegetarians eat. He offered an omelette. I declined. I can make those at home.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Did Austria really invent France’s iconic croissant?

It's often said that Austria in fact invented the croissant - and some even claim that Marie Antoinette brought it to France - but the real story is a little more complicated than that.

Did Austria really invent France's iconic croissant?

The croissant is probably the food product most closely associated with France (tied with the baguette) but is it even French? Well, it depends on how you look at it.

The French croissant is usually credited to a couple of Austrian migrants – August Zang and Ernest Schwartzer, who opened a bakery in Paris in the 1830s. They specialised in the pastries and cakes of their homeland and are generally agreed to have popularised the kipferl in France.

Listen to the team from The Local discussing croissants in the latest episode of the Talking France podcast. Listen here or on the link below

The kipferl shows up in records in Austria at least as early as the 13th century, so it definitely pre-dates the croissant.

In the 1800s the French went crazy for Austrian pastries, which is why we talk about viennoiseries (referencing Austrian capital Vienna) to refer to breakfast pastries such as croissants, pain au chocolat and pain au raisin.

But is a kipferl a croissant? The original recipe called for the roll to be made of bread, not pastry, and modern recipes call for a light yeast dough, often scented with vanilla.

Delicious, undoubtedly, but a croissaint . . .

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy created a recipe using puff pastry instead.

His instructions specified that the croissant be made of rolled puff pastry, laminated with butter to create layers – and this is how modern day croissants are made.

The pastry layers are what creates the distinctive crumb-scattering deliciousness that is a croissant.

So did the Austrians invent the croissant or did they just invent a curved bread roll? Or should France and Austria share the credit and chalk this one up to another great success from international cooperation?

One thing that is certainly French is the name – croissant in French simply means ‘crescent’ and refers to the shape of the breakfast pastry.

It’s used in other contexts too – for example Le Mouvement international de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge – is how the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is referred to in French.

And Marie Antoinette?

This historical rumour is almost certainly rubbish.

Although Marie Antoinette was indeed Austrian, the first record of the croissant does not appear in Paris until at least 40 years after her death and the two Austrian bakers credited with introducing the croissant weren’t even born when she met her end on the guillotine in 1793.

Also, she never said ‘let them eat cake’.

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