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Can Ukrainian refugees save Italy’s ‘dying’ hill towns from extinction?

Southern Italian hill towns are suffering from a population crisis. Can welcoming Ukrainian refugees in need of a new home keep them from disappearing altogether?

A general view shows the sea on June 4, 2019 from Riace, southern Italy. - The small town of Riace in Calabria has become, following the recent European elections, a symbol of Italy's Lega Nord leader and Interior minister Matteo Salvini's victory and of its slogan
Thousands of southern Italian villages are at risk of becoming ghost towns. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

On a sunny day in March, two Ukrainian women, their three children, a few backpacks and one cabin-sized rolling suitcase containing all their worldly possessions pulled up to a bus stop at Lamezia Terme train station in southern Italy.

The arrivals had flown from Warsaw to Catania in eastern Sicily, boarded a Flixbus, taken a ferry to the mainland (the children had been excited to see a bus drive onto a boat), and continued on towards their destination. Now, their odyssey had brought them here, to this small city on the southern toe of Italy’s boot.

READ ALSO: How is Italy responding to the Ukraine refugee crisis?

As they stepped off the coach, the women looked exhausted, the children dazed, says Barbara Aiello, Italy’s only woman rabbi and one of the leaders of the effort to bring the families over.

“They were so fragile. Like, ‘Where am I? Who are you? How come nobody speaks my language? Where are my friends? Where’s my father?’ It was really stark,” says Aiello.

She recalled having seen similar expressions on the faces of hurricane and flood victims in a previous career in disaster relief. “It was the same thing,” she says, “like, ‘What just happened to me?'”

A sign made to greet the Ukrainian families at the bus stop in Lamezia reads 'Welcome' in Ukrainian.

A sign made to greet the Ukrainian families at the bus stop in Lamezia Terme reads ‘Welcome’ in Ukrainian. Photo supplied by Barbara Aiello.

Several weeks earlier, when Russia first invaded Ukraine, Aiello and her team had sent messages to relief organisations throughout Warsaw and Krakow asking whether they knew of any refugees who wanted to come and stay in their Calabrian hilltop town of Serrastretta, a 40 minute drive from Lamezia Terme – but at first no one was interested.

“Our contacts told us that many people wanted to remain in Poland nearby the Ukrainian border, because they felt that the war would be over in just a few days,” says Aiello.

“It was around the 15th of March that the organisations were calling us back, telling us that there were people who wanted to leave.”

READ ALSO: How can people in Italy offer Ukraine refugees a place to stay?

The project’s organisers – a group of seven women, including an airport manager, a lawyer, two teachers, and a master woodworker – got to work.

They fundraised, bought plane and coach tickets, arranged Covid tests and accommodation, and secured residency permits. In the end, they arranged for five Ukrainian women and nine children to come to Serrastretta, arriving in groups a couple of weeks apart. The organisers called the project ‘In Esther’s Name’ “from the book of the Bible for both Christians and Jews, of which we are a mix,” says Aiello, drawing inspiration from the idea that “one of the themes of the book of Esther is that one person can make a difference.”

“Already from the first day to now you can see that they’re more calm, more serene – though they’re still missing their fathers,” says Gessica Scalise, a project member who’s been teaching the children Italian three times a week.

“But now when they see us, they definitely have lighter expressions; the mothers too.”

Three of Serrastretta's nine Ukrainian children blow bubbles in one of the town's piazzas.

Three of Serrastretta’s nine Ukrainian children blow bubbles in one of the town’s piazzas. Photo supplied by Barbara Aiello.

For the initiative’s organisers, however, offering sanctuary to families fleeing war is only one half of the equation. 

Serrastretta – like many hundreds of other towns in southern Italy – is rapidly losing its inhabitants to old age and a lack of job prospects. 

In inviting Ukrainian refugees to the town, Aiello hopes to kickstart the process of Serrastretta’s repopulation. She’s unabashed about the fact that her team actively sought out families they thought stood the best chance of helping them achieve this end.

READ ALSO: Italy heading for demographic ‘crisis’ as population set to shrink by a fifth

“We told the aid agencies that we wanted to bring only families, mothers that had children ranging in age from five to eleven, so that they would be in elementary school and middle school here,” says Aiello.

She positions the idea as a corrective to the “propaganda” that marketing dilapidated, municipal-owned homes to foreign buyers for one euro a piece (usually with the requirement to spend a hefty minimum sum on property renovation) will solve southern Italy’s population crisis.

What’s needed, the project’s leaders insist, “is not someone who’s retired who wants to renovate an older property to come for Ferragosto, but to grow the town with young families.”

READ ALSO: OPINION: Why Italians aren’t snatching up their country’s one-euro homes

Serrastretta isn’t the only underpopulated Italian hamlet to have been struck with the same inspiration.

The mayor of Pollica in Campania has reportedly signed a “declaration of intent” to provide an integration and job training programme for up to 30 displaced Ukrainians. Mussomeli and Salemi in Sicily, which have previously participated in one euro home schemes, say they’re partnering with an Italian property development company to offer free homes to Ukrainian families.

The Calabrian hilltown of Riace. Towns throughout the Italian south have been looking to recruit foreigners to save them from extinction.

The Calabrian hill town of Riace. Towns throughout the Italian south have been looking to recruit foreigners to save themselves from extinction. Photo by MARIO LAPORTA / AFP.

San Mango d’Aquino in Calabria is ahead of the curve; it’s already taken in 20 Ukrainians, 15 of them children, housing them in empty homes owned by the town council. It says it currently has space for 25 more.

“Depopulation is a big issue here, so with these mothers and children, we’re revitalising the town,” says vice mayor Francesco Trunzo.

“In San Mango d’Aquino, we want to create a borgo dell’accoglienza [a ‘welcome’ or ‘host’ town] – because we’re five minutes from the sea, five minutes from the mountains, on a beautiful hill – it’s a very desirable town, with access to all the services they could want.”

As part of its short-term retention strategy, the town has offered €2,500 to each household that agrees to stay past the summer.

“We’ve received funds for depopulation, €124,000, and decided to allocate these to those who remain in San Mango for at least six months,” says Trunzo. “It’s a little bit of assistance, to help them integrate, to rent a house, to bring their family members over here, to find a job.”

READ ALSO: How one dying Italian village plans to spend €20m in EU recovery funds

Although Italy’s government has committed to spending €500 million to support the country’s Ukrainian refugees, at this stage both the Serrastretta team and San Mango d’Aquino say they’ve received no national funding for their projects, instead relying on private donations.

To date, Aiello says ‘In Esther’s Name’ has raised close to $44,000. While the vast majority of that money has come from outside sources, both projects say local residents have enthusiastically participated in collection drives, eager to welcome the people who represent the possibility of salvation for their villages.

These initiatives might just be getting off the ground, but the concept of recruiting foreigners to save disappearing Italian hill towns isn’t a new one.

Riace, on the southern coast of Calabria, began formally hosting refugees with government funding in the early 2000’s, developing a system whereby foreign residents worked in local cooperatives and money was fed back into the town’s economy through a local ‘currency’ voucher scheme.

A woman originally from Ethiopia stands outside a shopfront in Riace on June 22, 2011.

A woman originally from Ethiopia stands outside a shopfront in Riace on June 22, 2011. Photo by MARIO LAPORTA / AFP.

By the 2010s, the ‘Riace Model’ was internationally acclaimed, the town’s mayor Domenico (‘Mimmo’) Lucano named one of the world’s greatest leaders in 2016 by Fortune Magazine.

That all came to an end in 2018, when authorities charged Lucano with abetting illegal immigration and failing to properly tender a garbage collection contract. The government pulled all immigration funding to the town, effectively dismantling the system, and in late 2021, Lucano was sentenced to 13 years and two months in prison.

READ ALSO: Italian mayor who helped migrants gets 13-year prison sentence

Many Italians, however, see Riace as a casualty of the authorities’ desire to pander to nationalists amid a rising tide of xenophobia rather than a failed integration project, and Lucano as a scapegoat (Lucano is appealing his conviction, and recently offered empty homes controlled by his non-profit ‘Riace Città Futuro’ to Ukrainian refugees).

“Riace had a very symbolic function in this public PR war,” says Ester Driel, a lecturer at Utrecht University who focused on Riace for her doctoral research. “It began to symbolise an ideal and got a lot of media attention for it, with a strong narrative that immigration is successful.”

“Of course, at the same time you had a national political trend where you had these parties that basically based their popularity and their votes on saying how dangerous migrants are.”

Driel says that at the time of its closure, Riace wasn’t the only Calabrian town operating under the Riace Model – just the most high-profile one. To her knowledge, a number of less well-known refugee-hosting villages around Riace are still running the same kind of scheme.

The model has broadly proven successful, Driel says, adding that it makes a significant difference if the national political will is aligned with what’s going on on the ground – which is where towns hosting Ukrainian refugees are likely to have a substantial advantage.

Residents of Riace walk under an arch with 'Global Village' painted on it on June 4, 2019.

Residents of Riace walk under an arch with ‘Global Village’ painted on it on June 4, 2019. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

One of the most important factors in such a project’s success, she found over the course of her research, is whether the town is merely housing refugees or making a concerted effort to facilitate their integration.

“Initiatives that considered the hosting of refugees as just a refugee project where we give them a house somewhere, they weren’t very successful,” she says. “But towns that offered working opportunities, internship opportunities, opportunities for people to get to know each other and actually work on projects together, those projects were much more successful.”

Driel also notes that the scheme tends to work best with specific demographics.

Young adults she spoke to, for example, would often complain that they were bored and wanted to do things that weren’t possible in a small town like Riace.

By contrast, “families with young children and the elderly were mostly very content, because after a very stressful journey from, for example, Somalia and Libya by boat, they were happy to be in a small town where it was peaceful, where their kids could go to school, and the elderly liked a peaceful life.”

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Driel adds that although the limited career opportunities in these small towns remains an issue, increased post-pandemic remote working options are drawing young professionals back (she herself knows several young Italians from Riace who returned home during the pandemic and have stayed on) – meaning if they can recruit enough young people, there’s a chance that some of them might stay. 

READ ALSO: Will Italy really pay you to move to its ‘smart working’ villages?

If such initiatives have proven successful in the past, people might reasonably question why some towns are only becoming interested in implementing these kinds of schemes now, for Ukrainians, given that in recent years Italy has not had a shortage of people seeking refuge.

Aiello is characteristically candid in her response: “Our need is to grow the population of our town, and the way that it will grow is not with young adult migrant men and not with retirees. Those people need to be served, of course, but they will not grow a dying village: what will grow a dying village is couples with young children.”

She says that the Serrastretta team had initially been planning to bring over families from Venezuela when Covid hit, scuppering their preparations, but that those families remain on their “waiting list” – and adds that the town would be open to taking in people from any part of the world as long as they fell in the right age bracket.

 

Miroslav from Ukraine sits with Italian Antonio in a living room in Serrastretta.

Miroslav from Ukraine sits with Italian Antonio in a living room in Serrastretta. Photo supplied by Barbara Aiello.

Trunzo, for his part, says San Mango d’Aquino would “absolutely” be open to welcoming refugees from other continents, “if there were other emergencies, other wars, other similarly dramatic situations.”

Then there’s the question of whether the Ukrainian families will even want to stay.

The war is new and rapidly developing, and at this stage many of the country’s refugees are likely hoping they’ll be able to return home at some point. 

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“It’s a very fluid situation for which it’s impossible to predict the outcome,” says Valeria Carlini, a spokesperson for the Italian Refugee Council. “But compared to other refugee flows, we’re definitely encountering people who frequently and very emphatically assert their desire to remain firmly connected to their homeland.”

Aiello says her team recently broached the subject of the future at a meeting with the mothers in Serrastretta.

“We said, ‘We don’t know what’s going to happen day-to-day in Ukraine, but are you thinking you might like to live here?’ And all five of them said yes. Now will that happen? We don’t know, and we will not put pressure on them.”

She points out that the mayor of Kyiv recently warned citizens against trying to return, and says that at least one of the families’ homes has been razed to the ground, making their imminent departure seem increasingly unlikely. But she’s aware it’s still a possibility. 

“Someone asked me, ‘Do you want us to live here?’” she says. “And I said, “of course we do! But it is entirely up to you and what’s best for your family. We will help you do want you want: we will bring your husbands here, and if you want to leave, we will help you with transportation to go wherever you want to go.'”

While everyone waits to see what the future holds, the days roll on. The children in Serrastretta and San Mango d’Aquino are enthusiastically learning Italian, and recently started school.

Scalise, the teacher, says they held a workshop for the Ukrainian children and their peers to get to know one another better, and that the two groups happily babbled away in a pidgin of Italian, English, and hand gestures.

Serrastretta's public school welcomes the new arrivals on their first day.

Serrastretta’s public school welcomes the new arrivals on their first day. Photo supplied by Barbara Aiello.

Both towns insist that if their guests leave, all their efforts will still have been worth it.

“If in two years or two months they want to go back, we will gladly accompany them to their homes,” says Trunzo.

He says that when he went to Ukraine to offer help when the war first broke out, the hotel his team had booked refused to take any payment, and greeted them with hugs. “So for us, just to welcome them at this time, to give them a bit of happiness, a bit of hope, a bit of help, repays itself.”

The fact remains that if the families do leave, the towns will be back to square one, and they’ll need to start their search from scratch. 

If this happens, the team behind the Serrastretta project is determined not to give up without a fight.

“These little towns are going to die if we don’t do something,” says Aiello. “And it’s not going to happen with a house for one euro. I’m convinced.”

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TRAVEL NEWS

Europe’s new EES passport checks: Your questions answered

The EU's new passport control Entry & Exit System (EES) is scheduled to come into force later this year and is already causing anxiety for many travellers. We've answered your questions on the new system and how it will work.

Europe's new EES passport checks: Your questions answered

Two big changes are coming for travel in and out of the EU and Schengen zone – EES and ETIAS.

You can find an overview HERE on what they mean, but broadly EES is an enhanced passport check at the border including biometric information while ETIAS is a visa waiver required for tourists making short visits.

Despite being scheduled to begin later this year, many aspects of how EES will actually work on the ground are still unclear – while much of the available information is for people who are travelling as tourists (rather than foreigners living in an EU or Schengen zone country).

So we asked readers of The Local to send us your questions.

Here we take a look at some of the most commonly asked questions – including the situation for dual-nationals, for non-EU citizens resident in Europe, for second-home owners and the situation at the UK-France border.

Some answers are still unclear – either because they have not yet been finalised or because the available information is not very specific. Where we have had to answer “we don’t know”, we will continue to badger the European Commission plus national and port authorities on your behalf. We will update this article when we know more. 

When is this coming into effect?

Good question. Believe it or not, discussions on the Entry & Exit System began in 2011. At that time the UK was part of the EU and was reportedly enthusiastic about EES. Things changed and now the border between France and the UK – an external EU border since Brexit – is a major worry. More on that below.

Anyway, it’s been a long term project and the start dates have been postponed multiple times, first because of Covid and then because infrastructure was not ready. The most recent postponement came at the request of France, which wanted to get the Paris Olympics over with before any border changes were made.

The EU now says that the start date for EES is the “second half of 2024” – UK media have reported October 6th as a possible start date while European airports have reportedly told to be ready by November. Meanwhile the French interior ministry says that the start is envisaged  “between the final part of 2024 and the beginning of 2025”.

We’ll see. 

Who does it affect?

EES is aimed at non-EU travellers who are a crossing an EU/Schengen external border.

EU citizens will not have to complete EES registration.

Neither will non-EU citizens who have residency in an EU or Schengen zone country – they will need to produce proof of residency such as a residency permit or long-stay visa.

Neither will non-EU residents who have a valid short-stay visa for a country in the EU. This could include second-home owners who have obtained a short-stay (under six months) visa in order to allow them unlimited visits to their holiday home.

However citizens from countries which do not benefit from the 90-day rule and who therefore need a visa even for short visits (eg Indians) will have to complete EES registration.

It does not apply when travelling between Schengen zone countries (more on that below).

Where does it apply?

EES is about external EU/Schengen borders, so does not apply if you are travelling within the Schengen zone – eg taking the train from France to Germany or flying from Spain to Sweden.

Ireland and Cyprus, despite being in the EU, are not in the Schengen zone so will not be using EES, they will continue to stamp passports manually.

Norway, Switzerland and Iceland – countries that are in the Schengen zone but not in the EU – will be using EES.

The full list of countries using EES is: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czechia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland. 

Therefore a journey between any of the countries listed above will not be covered by EES.

However a journey in or out of any of those countries from a country not listed above will be covered by EES. 

What is EES pre-registration?

You’ll soon be hearing a lot about EES “pre-registration”. EES itself is basically an enhanced passport check – travellers will need to register their biometric details (fingerprints and facial scans) to enhance the security of passport checks.

Automated passport checks will also start to calculate how long you have been in the EU, and therefore automatically detect over-stayers (eg people who have over-stayed their visa or who have over-stayed their 90-day allowance). EES does not change any of the rules regarding length of stay, it just toughens up enforcement of them. 

The first time that you cross an external Schengen border you will need to register additional details including fingerprints and a facial scan, and have them electronically linked to your passport. This takes place in a special zone at the airport/port/station that is your departure point.

Once you have completed the pre-registration, you then proceed to passport scanning. 

The pre-registration only needs to be done once and then lasts for three years. Those three years renew every time you cross an external border, so regular travellers shouldn’t need to renew it until they get a new passport – at which point the pre-registration must be done again.

Does pre-registration have to be done at the airport/port/station? Can’t I do it on a website or app?

Advance registration is what many travel operators, especially in the UK, are calling for. They say that getting everyone to complete pre-registration in person on site will cause chaos.

However, the EU at the moment seems to be sticking to the original idea of in-person registration. There are a number of practical problems with trying to pre-register fingerprints, but a solution could yet be found.

What can I do now?

Many of our readers want to get organised now and register their details in advance to avoid border delays. Unfortunately this is not possible and at the moment all you can do is wait until the system comes into effect. Frustrating, we know.

What about dual nationals?

People who have dual nationality of an EU and non-EU nation (eg British and Irish passports or American and Italian passports) will not be required to complete EES checks if they are travelling on their EU passport.

If, however, they are travelling on their non-EU passport they would need to complete EES registration.

EES does not change any of the rules relating to dual nationality or to travelling as a dual national – full details HERE.

What’s the situation for non-EU citizens resident in the EU/Schengen area?

The European Commission is clear about one point: EES does not apply to people who have residency in an EU country. This is because a major part of EES is catching over-stayers – which of course does not apply to people who are resident here.

What the Commission is a lot less clear about is how this will work in practice.

Most airports/port/stations have two queues: EU passports and non-EU passports. It’s not clear which queue non-EU citizens resident in the EU should use, how they can avoid automated passport checks entirely and use a manned booth (so that they can show both a passport and proof of residency) or even whether manned booths will be available at all departure points. 

What if I live in the EU but I don’t have a visa/residency permit? 

For most non-EU citizens, having either a visa or a residency permit is obligatory in order to be legally resident.

However, there is one exception: UK citizens who were legally resident in the EU prior to the end of the Brexit transition period and who live in one of the “declaratory” countries where getting a post-Brexit residency card was optional, rather than compulsory. Declaratory countries include Germany and Italy.

Although it is legal for people in this situation to live in those countries without a residency permit, authorities already advise people to get one in order to avoid confusion/hassle/delays at the border. Although EES does not change any rules relating to residency or travel, it seems likely that it will be more hassle to travel without a residency card than it is now.

Our advice? Things are going to be chaotic enough, getting a residency permit seems likely to save you a considerable amount of hassle. 

How does this affect the 90-day rule?

Citizens of certain non-EU countries – including the UK, US, Canada, New Zealand and Australia – are entitled to spend up to 90 days in every 180 in the EU without the need for a visa.

EES does not change this rule, so all the current regulations and restrictions continue to apply.

READ ALSO: How does the 90-day rule work?

What EES does change is the enforcement of the rule – at present non-EU nationals have their passports manually stamped on entry and exit, and border guards use these stamps to calculate whether people are sticking to their 90-day allowance.

It’s a bit of a hit-and-miss system, passports don’t always get stamped when they should, sometimes border guards misread the stamps and sometimes passports get stamped in error. EES should solve all of these problems by using an electronic scan of the passport and automatically calculating the 90-day allowance.

It will make it much harder for people to over-stay (indeed, this is one of its stated aims) but for people sticking to the rules it should actually be easier and more efficient. Should. If it works as advertised, that is…

What’s the deal for second-home owners?

For non-EU citizens who own property in the EU, it all depends on whether they have a visa or limit their visits to 90 days in every 180, as described above.

People who use the 90-day allowance will be subject to EES and use the system in the same way as short-stay tourists.

People who have a visa are exempt and need to show their visa at the border. As described in the “non-EU residents in the EU” section, however, it’s far from clear how this will actually work in practice at the border.

Why is the UK-France border such a problem?

As discussed above, EES will apply to all EU/Schengen external borders, but the biggest fears so far are about the UK-France border.

So is this just the Brits whining about the easily foreseeable consequences of Brexit? Actually no, there are genuine reasons why this border is likely to be a problem, mostly relating to volume of traffic and infrastructure.

Although it is true that EES wouldn’t have affected the UK-France border if it hadn’t been for Brexit, the current reasons for the worries are more practical.

Put simply, the UK-France border is one of the busiest EU external borders that there is, with around 60 million people crossing per year. Of those travellers, around 70 percent are UK citizens, meaning they will have to complete EES formalities.

Add to that the limitations of space: several UK destination points, including the Port of Dover and Eurostar’s London St Pancras terminal, are already in cramped areas with very little expansion room, meaning that creating the new infrastructure to deal with EES checks is very difficult.

For context, the newly completed EES pre-registration area at Coquelles (Calais) covers 7,000 square metres, in order to accommodate up to 60 passenger vehicles simultaneously.

The final factor is the Le Touquet agreement – the 2003 bilateral agreement between France and the UK means that passport checks for people entering France are done on UK soil, and vice versa. This creates a unique situation where people travelling from Eurostar Gare du Nord or St Pancras, the ports of Dover or Calais or the Channel Tunnel terminals of Folkestone and Coquelles go through two sets of passport checks on departure, and none on arrival.

READ ALSO: What is the Le Touquet agreement?

The double passport checks mean that delays at one area can have severe knock-on effects.

Since Brexit, the Port of Dover has reported long delays at several peak times such as the start of the school holidays while Eurostar has been forced to cut the number of trains it runs per day.

EES implementation problems won’t be limited to the UK-France border, but the volume of people crossing the border means that even slight delays to one system can easily lead to hours-long queues.

What about Nato staff or people with diplomatic passports?

People who have a special status such as diplomatic passports will not have to complete pre-registration. However, as with other exempt groups such as non-EU residents of the EU or visa holders, it is unclear how this will actually work on the ground and which passport queue they should join.

Will I need an extra visa to enter the EU as a tourist?

EES does not change anything with regards to visas – in essence all the current visa rules stay the same, only the enforcement changes.

However there is another change coming down the track – ETIAS, which will affect non-EU citizens entering the EU as tourists or visitors.

You can find an overview of how it works HERE, but one thing we do know is that it won’t be introduced until after EES is up and running and (hopefully) most of the problems ironed out.

One unholy mess at a time.

Will it really be an unholy mess?

The European Commission says: “The main advantage of the EES is saving time. The EES replaces passport stamping and automates border control procedures, making travelling to European countries using the EES more efficient for the traveller.”

Hmm.

As outlined above, there could be infrastructure problems at several departure points, there is as yet little clarity on certain import details and of course all new systems take time to bed in.

After the first year of operation things are likely to get smoother – by this time most regular travellers will have already completed the pre-registration and will therefore by able to move straight into getting their passport scanned, leaving only new travellers to complete the pre-registration formalities.

That first year, however, looks like it could be a little chaotic at certain borders, especially the UK-France one, at peak travel times such as the start of school holidays. 

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