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MOVING TO SPAIN

Moving to Spain’s Canary Islands: The pros and cons

The Atlantic archipelago is a paradise with arguably the best climate in Europe, but there are many practical considerations foreigners should factor in before moving there. The Local Spain’s editor Alex Dunham, who grew up in Tenerife, explains. 

Moving to Spain's Canary Islands: The pros and cons
There’s a big difference in population between the islands. The order, from most populated to least is Tenerife (928,604 residents), Gran Canaria (855,521), Lanzarote (155,080 - pictured in the photo), Fuerteventura (119,732), La Palma (83,458), La Gomera, (21,678), El Hierro (11,147) and La Graciosa (732). Photo: Daniil Sliusar/Unsplash

The Canaries have the best weather in Spain, but it isn’t always perfect 

The islands’ location off the coast of Western Sahara, together with the trade winds (alisios) that constantly breeze through the archipelago, ensure that for the most part it’s never too hot and never too cold. 

From September to July you can expect it to be between 18 and 28 C, remaining warmer than other coastal locations in southern and eastern mainland Spain in winter. 

It’s no wonder that the Canaries are known as the land of eternal spring, but those who enjoy a change of seasons (and wardrobe) may find it ‘too’ perfect.  

It’s also worth noting that the more mountainous islands tend to have microclimates, meaning that you aren’t guaranteed warm weather in places of high altitude. 

And the biggest meteorological drawback of the Canary Islands is that calima – sand from the nearby Sahara desert – is blown over several times a year, turning the sky yellow, making it harder to breathe and covering everything in dust.

READ ALSO: What is calima and is it bad for you?

With sun almost all year round and arguably the best beaches of all the Canaries, Fuerteventura is perfect for sun seekers, but it’s also very exposed to calima. Photo: Michal Mrozek/Unsplash

You get huge discounts on flights and the islands are well connected 

For some Spaniards and foreigners who settle in the Canary Islands, one of their main complaints is that after a while they get the sense of being cut off from the rest of Spain and Europe. 

This Canary cabin fever is somewhat justified, as it takes two and half hours to fly to Madrid, three hours to Barcelona, and more than a day by ferry to southern Spain. Unfortunately, spontaneous road trips to another European country aren’t possible.

If there is a silver lining to draw it would be that most Canary residents get a discount of up to 70 percent on flights, making it possible to travel to and from mainland Spain for cheap prices. 

There are also a surprisingly high number of direct flights from the main islands of Tenerife and Gran Canary to many countries in Europe, a couple of direct flights to Africa and a new route to New York.

Tourists check the arrival and departure boards at the Reina Sofia Tenerife-South airport. Photo: Desirée Martín/AFP

Overpopulation has its knock-on effects

Despite the small size of the eight Canary islands (with a surface area of less than 7,500 km2), they have a population of more than 2.2 million inhabitants.

That means that the region is the most densely populated in Spain, but this is really only the case in Gran Canaria and Tenerife, which are home to more than 90 percent of the archipelago’s population. 

This overpopulation on the two main islands has had other unintended consequences of keeping rent as well as land and property prices higher on average due in part to the lack of space, even though wages and living costs in the Canaries are lower than in many parts of the mainland. 

Another knock-on effect is the sheer number of vehicles on the islands. If the Canary Islands were a country, they would be the sixth in the world in terms of most cars per capita.

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is by far the most populous city in the Canary Islands with 378,000 inhabitants. Photo: Vidar Nordli-Mathisen/Unsplash

It’s not all tourism

Many abroad believe the Canary Islands are one big holiday resort where British breakfasts and German socks in sandals reign supreme. 

Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it), this image has been perpetuated by visitors who haven’t ventured much further than their hotels or closest beach. 

The reality is that tourism in the Canaries remains centred around a handful of holiday hotspots where everything is focused on accommodating foreign visitors, but the majority of cities, towns and villages across the islands are Spanish in appearance and culture and inhabited mainly by canarios.

There are beautiful colonial towns such as La Laguna in Tenerife, Teror in Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz de la Palma that have hardly changed over five centuries and offer a real experience of true, historic Spain. 

Centuries-old Canary balconies in Santa Cruz de La Palma. Photo: Flo/Unsplash

Online shopping is a nightmare

The Canaries’ 1,700km distance from mainland Spain, along with the fact that they have their own specific sales tax (IGIC instead of IVA/VAT), means that many businesses in Europe don’t bother to deliver their goods to the archipelago.

Any attempted purchase on Amazon for example is likely to be met with a “no enviamos a Canarias” (we don’t send to the Canary Islands). There are some companies now specialising in making online shopping easier for isleños, but delivery times are longer and fees are higher.

 The Canaries have historically been a key trading stopover point between Africa, the Americas and Europe, and to this day their ports are well supplied and you will be able to find most of what you want in the shops. But if you’re looking to purchase something very specific, you may run into some problems. 

The port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the most important in the archipelago together with Las Palmas de Gran Canaria’s. Photo: cocoparisienne/Pixabay

Work for foreigners is mostly limited to tourism and teaching 

The islands’ economy relies heavily on tourism and Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria are not exactly Madrid and Barcelona in terms of varied work opportunities. 

Foreigners looking to work for a local business may find their greatest chances of landing a job are with something relating to language teaching or tourism as this is where they have the upper hand. 

There’s the same lack of entrepreneurial spirit on the islands as in many parts of Spain, not least because bureaucracy and official matters are complex and slow, so standing out with a bright idea is possible for anyone who’s business savvy and patient. 

What does seem to be booming is the community of digital nomads and remote workers on the islands, with authorities keen to promote the quality of life of the archipelago for anyone wanting to work remotely.

READ ALSO: Spain’s new law for startups, investors and digital nomads

Tourists walk past a souvenir shop in Los Cristianos in Tenerife. (Photo by Desirée Martín/AFP)

Canarios are friendly but insular-minded 

Spaniards from the mainland will be the first to tell you how amiable canarios are and how they love their soft accent in Spanish, closer to how Cubans or Venezuelans sound. 

They may also point out that canarios are aplatanados (lazy or bone idle) as they definitely take life more in their stride than people from northern Spain. 

What’s certainly true is that despite the many nationalities that visit the archipelago, canarios don’t generally mingle with foreigners (nor are all foreigners interested in mingling with canarios either) . 

Their foreign language skills aren’t great and they tend to stick to their own traditions and people, many seeming content to live in their familiar little paradise rather than taking an interest in the outside world. Most of those with big aspirations tend to leave. 

Santa Cruz de Tenerife’s carnival is the biggest in Spain and a great place to mingle with ‘canarios’. Photo: Desirée Martín/AFP

If I had to describe life in the Canaries in one word…

It would be mellow. 

A move to the Canary Islands will not necessarily provide you with career opportunities or the entertainment and hustle and bustle of Spain’s big cities, but it is a benign place with plenty on offer for a happy life.

The Canaries has one of the best climates in the world for a life best enjoyed outdoors, incredible and very varied nature, a lower cost of living overall, more history and culture than most outsiders imagine, easy-going locals, and despite their far-flung location, great links to Europe.

The laurisilva forests of the greener Canary islands are the perfect place to avoid the crowds and popular tourist spots. Photo: Mihaly Koles/Unsplash

Member comments

  1. Yes, businesses on Amazon Spain often won’t send items to the Canaries. I experienced this as I live on Tenerife. The way to get round it is to order from Amazon Germany where they have no problem sending goods here. Quite a few of the things I’ve ordered from Amazon Germany actually are despatched from Spain.

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VISAS

INTERVIEW: ‘There are three main alternatives to Spain’s golden visa’

What happens to foreigners on Spain’s golden visa now that the scheme will be scrapped? How about those in the process of applying and non-EU nationals considering buying a home and moving to Spain? The Local spoke to several experts to get the lowdown on what changes.

INTERVIEW: 'There are three main alternatives to Spain's golden visa'

On Monday April 8th, Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez announced that it will soon no longer be possible for foreigners to obtain Spanish residency by buying a €500,000 property in the country.

The latest government figures suggest that 14,576 wealthy non-EU nationals have obtained the golden visa by buying a half-a-million-euros home since the scheme launched in 2023, with a particularly big surge in visas granted over the last two years, which “raised the alarm”

The government says it’s about reducing price speculation in the property market but for the opposition it’s purely a political “smokescreen” at a time of rising property and rent prices that are affecting locals but not higher-earning foreigners in Spain. 

Q&A: When and why is Spain axing the golden visa?

“It won’t have the desired effect of freeing up property because golden visa holders are not competing usually at the prices where locals are being priced out; the culprits are Airbnb-style rentals.” Graham Hunt, who runs Valencia Property and has helped numerous clients process their golden visas, told The Local Spain.

“Most golden visa buyers we have had to buy a place to live in and not as a speculative investment. A few buy under the limit then complement it with a second rental property or garage space to make up the €500,000.”

Although a €500,000 property is certainly not within reach for most foreigners in Spain, the end of the golden visa scheme as we’ve known it means there are fewer visa choices for foreigners.

For Hunt, “a simple reform requiring golden visa residents to live for more than six months per year in Spain thus becoming tax residents would have sufficed to make it more lucrative for the government, while at the same time closing some of the loopholes of origin of funds which may have been a problem with Russian and Chinese applicants”.

The golden visa is the only visa that doesn’t require foreign residents to become tax residents in Spain, nor spend a minimum amount of time in Spain to keep residency (1 day a year to renew).

Maryem Essadik, an immigration lawyer for international law firm Marfour, told The Local: “this visa has brought a lot of foreign capital to Spain and the new measure stops the arrival of foreigners with great economic means and a high level of consumption”. 

So what now for those who already have a golden visa and those in the process of applying for it? Is it too late to get Spain’s golden visa at the last minute? And what other Spanish visas could high-income third-country nationals opt for?

What does this mean for people who already have the golden visa?

“Those who currently hold a golden visa will NOT be affected,” Gerard Martínez of immigration law firm Balcells Group stressed to The Local Spain. 

“They will keep their residency card and this measure will not affect them”.

Immigration lawyer Maryem Essadik added that “the residency authorisation of existing golden visa holders through investment in real estate is a guaranteed right and the new law cannot be more unfavourable than the terms applied to them at the time”.

Essadik told The Local that a clear and recent example of this happening is when “UK nationals legally residing in Spain when the UK left the EU were not affected, even though many had to carry out exchanges of their permits”.

Does anything change for people in the process of applying for Spain’s golden visa?

“In principle, applications being processed are assessed according to the law that was in force, unless retroactive measures are established by the new law,” Essadik states.

“It’s too early to go into detail, we have to wait for the law to be approved.”

Gerard Martínez of Balcells is more optimistic: “Those in the process of applying should not be affected either. The government will define a deadline until which this visa can be obtained, so those in the process can have enough time.”

Is it too late to buy a €500,000 Spanish home and apply for the golden visa? 

The golden visa was known as being perhaps the fastest residency authorisation to obtain in Spain – between 10 and 20 days – but of course you also have to factor in that choosing and purchasing a €500,000 property can take time.

“We still need to understand the timings the government sets for its modification,” Martínez admits, “but right now it is not too late, so now is the best time to obtain it, as we don’t know if in x months that option will still be available.”

According to Spanish daily El Periódico de España, the intention of Spain’s Housing Minister is to cancel the golden visa scheme as quickly as possible and to fast-track this process by attaching the legal amendment to another law, the upcoming modification of the Spanish Land Law (Ley de Suelo) which has already overcome some legal hurdles.

It’s worth noting however that the golden visa amendment isn’t a done deal yet and that legislative changes in Spain tend to take longer than expected. 

What are the alternatives to Spain’s golden visa?

“It depends on the circumstances of each person,” Hunt of Valencia Property told The Local Spain.

“But the easiest one if someone doesn’t need to work is the non-lucrative visa (NLV), and if they do need to work then they need to get themselves in a position to apply for the digital nomad visa (DNV).”

Martínez of Balcells Group agreed that the NLV and the DNV are two of the best choices, but added another important alternative: “the golden visa’s other investment categories will still work, so those higher net-worth individuals may still obtain residency by investing in Spanish companies or in Spanish debt”.

Although this is yet to be 100 percent confirmed, it does appear that the only category of the golden visa scheme that is set to be removed is that relating to property, as this is what the government has deemed problematic in terms of price speculation. 

Therefore, investing €1 million in shares in Spanish companies, or €2 million in government bonds, or transferring €1 million to a Spanish bank account, will still be likely to obtain Spanish residency through the golden visa for the time being.

READ ALSO: What the end of Spain’s golden visa means for foreigners

How do the non-lucrative visa and the digital nomad visa compare to the golden visa?

Spain’s golden visa has been considered the ‘easiest’ Spanish residency visa to obtain because it doesn’t take long to be processed, and as mentioned earlier it didn’t have the requirement of becoming a Spanish tax resident and no risk of losing residency for being out of the country (1 day a year). 

However, the non-lucrative visa and the digital nomad visa are two worthy alternatives for people with plenty of savings or high incomes. 

The non-lucrative visa doesn’t allow you to work but gives you Spanish residency if you can prove €28,000 in funds to cover your costs for the year, and €7,200 for every extra family member included on the residency application, as well as providing comprehensive medical insurance. 

Proving financial means and medical cover are also required for the golden visa.

Other perks of the NLV include the right to invest in Spain, freedom of movement around the Schengen Zone, a lower financial burden than the golden visa and the option of swapping over to a work of self-employed visa.

If you want to work from Spain, the digital nomad visa requires €2,646 in monthly earnings to be eligible, it enables you to live in the country for five years, you can also bring family members with and your partner has the right to work as well, among other perks such as freedom of movement around Schengen nations.

Non-lucrative vs digital nomad visa: Which one should you choose to move to Spain?

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