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How gay stylists play a key role during Holy Week in southern Spain

Working with rich fabrics, fine lace and flowers, gay stylists have long played a key role in dressing the Virgin Mary figures carried through the streets of southern Spain during Holy Week. But their participation comes at a price: silence about their sexual orientation.

How gay stylists play a key role during Holy Week in southern Spain
Dancer and performer Carlos Carvento, dressed in mourning and wearing a traditional 'mantilla' poses in Córdoba. (Photo by JORGE GUERRERO / AFP)

It’s a compromise that is making them increasingly uncomfortable.

“Seville’s Holy Week is a contemporary festival dating back to the end of the 19th century and the gay community has been involved since the very beginning,” says Rafael Cáceres, an anthropology expert at Pablo Olavide University in the southern city of Seville.

The Andalusian capital is a hive of activity ahead of Holy Week, which starts on Palm Sunday – April 10th – and culminates on Easter Day when Christians remember the death and resurrection of Jesus.

Many thousands throng the streets to watch life-sized models of the Virgin Mary and Christ carried through the streets by different brotherhoods and religious associations.

The figures are painstakingly dressed and adorned by volunteers at religious associations.

“There are florists, embroidery specialists, jewellers, stylists” who work together on the virgin figures and “almost all of them are gay”, says Pedro Pablo Pérez Ochavo of Seville’s Ichtys Cristian@s LGBT+H which lobbies for equality within the Catholic Church.

‘A path to integration’

With their role in the brotherhoods, gay men can find “a way to fit in”, a space in which “their artistic work and persona is valued”, said Carlos Carvento, a 26-year-old dancer and drag queen from Córdoba.

“Acceptance is based on that: a person can be a virgin dresser and gay but he wouldn’t say it. As long as his public life is reasonably discreet so it doesn’t tarnish the brotherhood,” explains Cáceres, the anthropologist.

“The Church’s attitude is pretty laissez-faire as long as there’s no scandal,” said Jesus Pascual whose 2021 documentary film “Dolores, guapa!” explored the links between Andalusia’s gay community and Holy Week.

But Antonio Muñoz Tapia began to have problems after marrying his partner David in 2016.

“If you don’t have a partner, if you live alone and keep quiet as I did, they don’t cause you any problems,” explained this 50-year-old businessman who works in the oil sector.

Olive oil entrepreneur Antonio Muñoz poses in S. (Photo by JORGE GUERRERO / AFP)

Two decades ago, he set up a brotherhood in Doña Mencia, his village near Córdoba, taking the prestigious top role as its “big brother”.

But since getting married, requests for him to give the speech that opens Holy Week in his village have petered out.

And more recently the Church printed its annual magazine for the brotherhoods without including his article calling for equality for the LGBT community.

Muñoz Tapia says he’s never experienced such an attitude within the brotherhood nor among locals, Spain being a country where people are very open-minded about LGBT issues.

“I just don’t understand this Pharisee-like attitude — that we’re good enough for the brotherhoods but not good enough to deserve the same rights,” he said.

‘A Christian lifestyle’

Seville’s archdiocese told AFP it “did not by any means have a register which specified people’s sexual identity” and that “anyone who wanted to deeply experience Holy Week in Seville could do so without any problem”.

However, diocesan rules say those leading brotherhoods or religious organisations must “stand out for their Christian lifestyle in their personal life, their family life and in society”.

Married Spanish designers José Víctor Rodríguez (L) and Jose Luis Medina, also known as “Victorio” and “Lucchino” pose for pictures in their atelier in Seville. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)

“They don’t use the word ‘homosexual’ but they use this article” against those identifying as LGBT or people who are divorced, explains Ochavo of Ichtys.

José Víctor Rodriguez and José Luis Medina, fashion designers known as “Victorio” and “Lucchino”, got married in 2007 and shortly afterwards, a Seville newspaper published a letter criticising the fact they were allowed to dress the Holy Week virgins.

“We’ve led a life that’s more upright and moral than many other people,” insists Medina, describing the letter as a “despicable” attack.

Lady Gaga v. Our Lady of Sorrows

Three years ago, drag queen Carvento celebrated Holy Week by walking through Córdoba in a black skirt, high heels and his grandmother’s mantilla, a traditional embroidered black shawl used during fiestas or solemn occasions.

His picture on Instagram was initially taken down following several complaints, but later allowed.

Dancer and performer Carlos Carvento, dressed in mourning and wearing a traditional ‘mantilla’. (Photo by JORGE GUERRERO / AFP)

“They often say that [the gay community] is taking over (this annual tradition) but I’m not taking over anything because it’s mine too!”

During Holy Week, dozens of different Virgin Marys are paraded through the streets with Our Lady of Sorrows, Our Lady of Mount Carmel, Our Lady of the Broom and the Virgin of Macarena’s Hope clear favourites among the gay community.

“You might have a gay fan of Lady Gaga or of Rosalia in Barcelona but here, we’re fans of the Virgin of la Macarena or the Glorious Ascension, or Our Lady of Sorrows,” grins Carvento.

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DISCOVER SPAIN

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez’s Feria del Caballo

The swish of a flamenco skirt, the soft beat of hooves drumming on the roads and the smell of sweet sherry, these are the senses you'll experience at Jerez de la Frontera’s Feria del Caballo in May, a worthy alternative to Seville's busy April Fair.

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez's Feria del Caballo

There’s nothing quite so Andalusian as attending a local feria or festival, comprising all the elements you’d expect from this quintessential area of Spain – flamenco, horses and lots of food and drink.

While the most famous feria is Seville’s Feria de Abril, it may not actually be the best place to experience your first one. This is primarily because in Seville, visitors are not allowed to enter many of the so-called casetas (tents or marquees) where the main events such as music and dancing take place.

These are reserved for private companies or are by invitation only. By visiting the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera instead, you’ll be able to enter almost all the casetas for free and not have to worry about jostling for space with so many other tourists, as it’s mainly locals who attend.

Horses wait in the shade at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

Jerez lies approximately 90km south of Seville and is renowned throughout the country for three things – horses, flamenco and sherry. It forms one point of the famed Sherry Triangle, where the majority of Spain’s sherry or jerez is produced and is also home to the prestigious Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). This is where some of Spain’s most talented horses perform and dance with their riders.

READ ALSO: The surprising connection between Spanish sherry and the British and Irish

While the town also holds a sherry festival and a flamenco festival, the Feria del Caballo is where all three elements are brought together.

This year the Feria del Caballo takes place from May 4th to the 11th, 2024. Like previous years the main fair will take place in the Parque González Hontoria, just north of the city centre.

Traditional trajes de flamenco in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox
 

During the day time, there are several dressage competitions taking place, then as late afternoon and evening draws near, the whole town heads to the fairground for an evening of partying and drinking.

Everyone dons their traditional trajes de flamenco or flamenco costumes, and horse-drawn carriages take revellers for rides along the dusty streets, lined with casetas, decorations and barrels of sherry.

By night the whole fairground is aglow with twinkly multicoloured lights. Flamenco music blares from each caseta and everyone shows off their Sevillanas moves. Sevillanas is a traditional folk dance from the region of Seville, which could be mistaken for flamenco to the untrained eye.

Jerez’s Feria del Caballo by night. Photo: Esme Fox

The order of the day is a rebujito, the feria’s classic tipple which is a mixture of sherry and lemonade. It might not sound great, but it can get quite addictive.

Next to the park, which has been turned into a mini festival city within itself is a traditional funfair complete with rides such as twirling tea cups and bumper cars, as well as games from coconut shys to fishing for plastic ducks and mock shooting ranges.

Dressage competition at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

The history of the Feria del Caballo goes back over 500 years. In 1264 Alfonso X granted the town two annual duty-free fairs, one in April and the other in September/October. By the Middle Ages, this turned into commercial livestock fairs that took place around the same months. 

However, it wasn’t until 1955 when the Domecq Sherry family came up with the idea of a festival focused on the city’s connections with horses.

Today, Jerez de la Frontera offers one of the best places to experience a typical Andalusian feria

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