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LIVING IN ITALY

From bureaucracy to bidets: The most perplexing things about life in Italy

After moving to Italy from the US, everyday life may bring plenty of small surprises. American Mark Hinshaw in the Le Marche region reflects on the most puzzling aspects and tells us how he and his wife are adjusting.

From bureaucracy to bidets: The most perplexing things about life in Italy
Brace yourself. But the paperwork isn't the only thing you'll have to get used to after moving to Italy. Photo by Wesley Tingey on Unsplash

After moving to Italy, we encountered a seemingly endless series of challenges that had to be overcome.

First, there was the language. We made a decent effort to learn the language with its complex variations and conjugations of verb tenses, the proper use of masculine/feminine nouns and pronouns, and plural forms of words. My wife, having younger and more copious brain cells, picked it up much faster; she is now fluent and can even participate in arguments over the phone. I look on in awe, trying to follow the rapid-fire repartee.

READ ALSO: 12 signs you’ve cracked the Italian language

Which brings up the next challenge, Italians speak fast. Very fast. I am often two sentences behind before I fully understand what is being said to me. There is an awkward pause of several seconds while my brain catches up in order to allow me to reply.

We frequently have to ask neighbors and friends to slow down – “Lentamente, per favore” – when they shift into fifth gear and launch into a long exposition. 

Then there is the challenge of the dialect. Oh my. The Duolingo program does not reveal that there are dozens of regional dialects. We discovered that many people in this village speak in the dialect.

As hard as we would listen, we could make out no understandable Italian. Most can certainly speak Italian, but they are used to employing their dialect in everyday situations. We sometimes say that Italian is the common “middle” language we share with locals. 

IN MAPS: A brief introduction to Italy’s many local dialects

Then there is the infamous bureaucracy – the burocrazia. There are four levels of government to deal with: national, regional (comparable to states), provincial (comparable to counties) and cities. Each has their own array of functions, officials, procedures, required documents, internet sites, records, and permits. And different ways of getting appointments and receiving notices of impending due dates.

Some use email, some texts, some regular mail. Some, nothing at all. They are also notorious for not returning emails. We are speculating that no one wants to have a paper trail, lest they mistakenly say something incorrect.

But the bureaucracy is not just in government. Its similarly complex and baffling with utility services, repair services, banks, clinics, pharmacies, and even in the purchase of appliances. We have slowly learned to keep every single scrap of paper we receive in labeled folders, as one never knows when someone will not provide a service unless you can produce a particular document first. 

And don’t even get me started on obtaining a driver’s license. American tales about experiences in a DMV pale by comparison. 

I could continue for many paragraphs with challenges, both old ones we have met and surmounted and ones that are ongoing. Living here takes considerable resolve and tons of patience. Nothing — and I mean nothing — moves quickly. If someone moves here expecting American-style customer service and efficiency, they will have a miserable life ahead.

On the other hand, Italian officials, whether in government or the private sector, are fiercely proud of their jobs and the authority that their job title represents. If they are treated with respect and deference, we have found most will be accommodating and helpful. It’s only when they encounter people displaying a sense of entitlement or arrogance that things can quickly go sideways (I’m looking at you, entitled Americans and Brits). Officials can make your life easier or they can easily make it a living hell. 

READ ALSO: The five most essential pieces of paperwork you’ll need when moving to Italy

But perhaps one of the greatest challenges I’ve personally encountered is not a linguistic or a social one, but rather a physical one. I am referring here to the bidet.

Now I consider myself reasonably well-traveled and worldly. But using a bidet has for some reason always eluded me. During many visits to Europe over the decades, the bathrooms in hotels and rental places always had one. But I would give them the side-eye. The shiny porcelain plumbing fixture would remain unused by me. 

I was, frankly, flummoxed. Weren’t they intended for the other gender? How would I approach one if I wanted to? And what is the…umm…proper protocol? I suppose I was embarrassed to be seen fumbling by using it incorrectly. I still recall my mother suddenly bursting into the bathroom during an inopportune moment as a teenager.  

Of course, its not very likely that one’s time spent in a domestic or hotel bathroom would be intruded upon by a stranger who would give out with a mocking laugh. Still, it was the fear of the unknown that prevented me from making an attempt. So the thing just sat there in the bathroom for years, with me occasionally contemplating, then dismissing, its use.

One of our cats figured out how to use it before I did. She spent considerable time, with her head cocked, watching us both use the toilet. Then one day, she jumped up on the bidet and did her business. I imagine she concluded that the larger bowl was for the bigger animals and the smaller one for the smaller animals. Of course, her occasional use is not exactly a dainty or discreet one. It requires one of the big animals to clean up the aftermath.

A couple of months ago I had enough of being reticent. I read a few tutorials available online, with their sometimes hilariously descriptive details. I followed the instructions and took on the adversary. My first reaction, after the maiden voyage was: “Oh my God, what took me so long?” 

Now, it seems, I could not live without it.

Mark Hinshaw is a retired city planner who moved to Le Marche with his wife two years ago. A former columnist for The Seattle Times, he contributes to journals, books and other publications.

Member comments

  1. This article is amazing as we moved here to Rieti in November 2021 and my wife and I were laughing through the entire article as we have experienced everything Mark mentions and have yet to slay the “bidet” dragon. Now one thing is for sure, everything is slow except for the drivers 🙂
    Thank you for the wonderfully hilarious article.

  2. I wrote a more extensive comment here about my ludicrous situation after 18 years, and at the end read that 500 characters is the limit.
    So just the question:

    Is there any official or unofficial institution in Italy or on the moon, payable or FOC that I can go to ?

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LIVING IN ITALY

Why isn’t Pentecost Monday a public holiday in Italy?

Italy is known for being a particularly religious country, so why isn't Pentecost Monday a public holiday here?

Why isn’t Pentecost Monday a public holiday in Italy?

May 20th will mark Pentecost Monday (or Lunedì di Pentecoste in Italian) – an important observance in the Christian calendar which commemorates the descent of the Holy Spirit upon Jesus’s disciples.

Pentecost Monday is a movable feast (or festa mobile) in the Christian liturgical calendar, meaning that its date changes each year depending on when Easter is celebrated: Pentecost – which marks the exact day the Holy Spirit descended on the disciples – falls on the seventh Sunday after Easter, with Pentecost Monday following right after.

But while Pentecost Monday (also known as Whit Monday elsewhere) is a public holiday and therefore a non-working day in a number of European countries, including Austria, Germany, France, Spain and Switzerland, Italy – a country known for being overwhelmingly Catholic – doesn’t consider the date a festa nazionale.

But why is that so?

Pentecost Monday was long a public holiday in Italy. In fact, the Tuesday following Pentecost Sunday was also a national holiday up until the late 18th century. 

But in 1977 the Italian government then led by Giulio Andreotti removed Pentecost Monday along with four other Catholic-related feasts (these included St Joseph’s Day on March 19th and the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul on June 29th) from its list of public holidays. 

The official reason behind the change was to speed up public administration work and increase businesses’ productivity as the Italian calendar had featured nearly 20 different national holidays up to that point.

It could be argued however that a nationwide shift towards secularism in the second half of the 20th century also played a non-negligible role in the change.

That said, a number of political parties and Catholic associations have asked for the holiday to be restored over the years, with a proposal backed by the League party and centre-left Democrazia Solidale making it all the way to parliament in 2016 but being ultimately scrapped. 

Pentecost Monday isn’t the only important date on the Christian calendar not marked with a public holiday in Italy. 

READ ALSO: How to make the most of Italy’s public holidays in 2024

Good Friday may be a holiday elsewhere in Europe, but not in Italy, where it’s seen as a day of mourning. Ascension Day, which marks the day Jesus ascended into heaven and falls on the sixth Thursday after Easter every year, is also not a public holiday in the country.

Curiously, while Pentecost Monday is not a public holiday on the Italian calendar, there is one area of the country where the observance does grant residents a day off: South Tyrol (or Alto Adige), in northern Italy.

South Tyrol, which includes the city of Bolzano, is an autonomous Italian province, meaning that local authorities have the freedom to decide on a number of economic, political and civil matters, including the local holiday calendar. 

If you’re one of South Tyrol’s 530,000 residents, you will enjoy a three-day weekend this week.

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