SHARE
COPY LINK

INDUSTRY & TRADE

French producers must describe champagne as ‘sparkling wine’ in Russia

French champagne producers will ring in 2022 with at least one hiccup - starting Saturday, they must comply with a new Russian law prohibiting them from calling their bubbly by its Russian name, an affront that has infuriated the industry.

French producers must describe champagne as 'sparkling wine' in Russia
Champagne producers describe the labelling rift as heresy. Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP

President Vladimir Putin signed the legislation in June, making it illegal for imported champagnes to use the Russian translation, “Shampanskoe,” on their bottles.

French producers can still use the word in French, but will have to write “sparkling wine” in Cyrillic on the back of bottles – a heresy for houses that claim nothing can match their unique splendour.

They have fought for years to safeguard their AOC, or Controlled Appellation of Origin, for exclusive worldwide use under the provisions of the 1958 Lisbon Agreement on distinctive geographical indications.

But Russia is among several countries – including the United States – that are not signatories, and talks aimed at convincing Moscow to repeal the law have failed so far.

In October, however, France managed to secure a two-month moratorium that would allow them to sell stocks already sent to Russia while removing “Shampanskoe” from their export labels.

“It allowed us to ensure that non-conforming bottles sent before July could be sold,” the Comite Champagne industry body said in a statement.

Talks continue in the meantime, an official in the French trade ministry, who asked not to be identified by name, told AFP.

“We remain mobilised, with the European Commission, to keep working on this matter and defend our wine and spirits industry, including champagne,” the official said.

Russia is the 15th-largest export market for French champagne, with 1.8 million bottles sold in the country in 2019 – or 1.5 percent of overall sales.

But for the Comite Champagne, “it’s a promising and high-value market.”

“Russian consumers appreciate prestigious vintages and also enjoy champagne while visiting France,” it said.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

ECONOMY

Ukraine war turns French port of Rouen into grain powerhouse

Dozens of miles inland from the English Channel, the Seine River port of Rouen is bustling with shipments of wheat, barley and other grains, a boom fuelled by the Russian chokehold on Ukraine's agriculture exports.

Ukraine war turns French port of Rouen into grain powerhouse

Moscow’s invasion has forced countries worldwide to find other sources for essential cereals, propelling France to the world’s fourth-largest exporter of wheat — and making Rouen and its 18,000 workers a key player in the global market. 

“We’ve had unusual destinations such as Pakistan, Iran, India and Saudi Arabia. And countries like Algeria, which had shifted toward the Black Sea, have come back,” said Manuel Gaborieau, head of cereals development at Haropa Port, which manages Rouen as well as the ports of Le Havre and Paris.

Rouen, the biggest cereals port in Western Europe, saw record loadings of five million tonnes in the first half of 2022, usually the low point of the year, after Ukraine was attacked last February, he said.

The port has a long history as a trading hub, but grains came to prominence only in the 1960s when producers built the first silos at the site.

It now houses six grain terminals capable of storing 900,000 tonnes, and up to 110,000 tonnes can be loaded onto ships in a day.

“In Europe, only the Romanian port of Constanta has this level of capacity,” Gaborieau said.

“Our huge advantage is being right next to the biggest grain producing region of France,” said Alain Charvillat, export director at Senalia, the largest cereals operator at the port.

An operator orchestrates the spectacle of cranes, tractors, huge vacuums and whizzing conveyor belts from the screens of Senalia’s control room, with dozens of colour-coded circles for each storage unit — green for rapeseed, blue for soft wheat, and orange or yellow for barley, depending on whether it’s for feed or brewing beer.

‘Unprecedented’

Senalia alone loaded four million tonnes during the 2021-2022 harvest season, one million more than the previous year, Charvillat said.

He said French producers had “figured it was easier to move grains by boat than by truck — a boat holds 30,000 tonnes, the equivalent of 1,000 trucks”.

Overall, France exported an “unprecedented” €11 billion worth of grains last year, a 60 percent surge from the year before, said Jean-Francois Loiseau, president of the Intercereales producers’ group.

The gain is directly linked to the war in Ukraine, which upended grain markets and saw wheat prices soar to €400 a tonne in May 2022, double the price of July 2021, he said.

Rouen is likely to keep reaping profits if the fighting continues to hinder Ukraine’s grain exports.

One of the few drawbacks for Rouen is the water depth at the port, which is too shallow for the biggest ships, putting a cap on a single load of 55,000 tonnes.

So larger vessels leave only partially filled and have to stop in La Rochelle to the south, or Dunkirk to the north, to top up their holds.

SHOW COMMENTS