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‘It takes time’: Foreign residents on what it’s really like to live in Milan

As Milan has ranked both highly and poorly in recent liveability surveys, we asked the city's foreign residents to share the truth on what life is really like there. Here's what readers of The Local told us - as well as insider advice if you're thinking of moving to Milan.

Is it possible to enjoy life in Milan as a foreign resident? The Local’s readers weigh in.
Is it possible to enjoy life in Milan as a foreign resident? The Local’s readers weigh in.Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP

After Milan was once again ranked in the bottom five in an annual survey of the best and worst cities to move to as a foreigner (this time coming in second-to-last place), we decided to create our own survey asking our Milan-based readers for their thoughts on what life in the city is really like.

The responses were mixed: a little over half of respondents were broadly positive about the quality of life in Milan, checking the ‘life’s fantastic’, ‘I’m grateful to be living here’, or ‘no complaints’ boxes.

Just under half said they have had a difficult experience of living in the city, with around one in ten actively hating the experience.

On an individual basis, readers had plenty of useful insights into how the city ticks and how to get the most out of living in Italy’s economic capital.

Here’s what you had to say about the best and worst parts of living in Milan – as well as your advice for people weighing up whether to make the move themselves.

‘An amazing strategic location’

Those who give Milan a thumbs up appreciate its convenient geographical position and cosmopolitan feel.

“I have Italianness where I want it, and the efficiency, modernity and access of an international-level city when I need it,” says Kate, who’s lived in Milan for a bit less than a year.


“It’s a cosmopolitan city but it is still small enough to feel manageable,” agrees James Appleton, who moved to the city in 2020. “Things tend to work, and it’s in an amazing strategic location.”

In particular, residents highlight that the city’s close proximity to nature means they can easily take weekend or day trips to a range of scenic destinations.

“Geographically it is in a superb position, near the mountains and the sea,” says resident Melanie, who has lived in Milan on and off for forty years.

Lake Como is just a short car journey or train ride from Milan.

Lake Como is just a short car journey or train ride from Milan. Photo: Anjuna Ale on Unsplash

“It’s amazing to be within an hour train ride of so many beautiful places outside of Milan,” agrees Veronica Policht, who’s spent two living years in the city.

And if you fancy going further afield, it’s also well-positioned for making international trips.

“The airports are very accessible and I really like the convenience of Linate for travel within Europe or to the UK. I think Milan is easily one of the most accessible and navigable cities I’ve ever lived in (I’m from Sydney and have lived in Hong Kong, London, Amsterdam and Tokyo),” says Nicki, who’s lived in Milan for two years.


‘World class’ public transport

Another highlight of life in Milan, say readers, is the excellent public transport system.

“Milan’s public transportation is amazing, honestly world class,” enthuses Veronica.

It’s “very easy to get around, great public transport and bike lanes and easy to walk everywhere” seconds Nicki.

The city tends to gets a bad rap for its appearance compared to places like Florence and Rome, but several readers said they find Milan an attractive place to live. 

And when it comes to food and culture, many of you agree: Milan’s is second to none.

James cites Milan’s “food and drink options, its beautiful and underrated centre, its modern architecture” as some of city’s best qualities, while Veronica appreciates the “many cultural opportunities available”.

Pre-dinner aperitivi are considered a highlight of Milanese life.

Pre-dinner aperitivi are considered a highlight of Milanese life. MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP

“The food, aperitivo, architecture, parks, and art,” are all highlights for two-year Milanese resident Joshua; and Steve Geddis, who’s lived in the city for four years, agrees that there’s a “huge range of restaurants, constantly lots to do.”

So what’s not to love about Italy’s economic capital?

‘The pollution is awful’

Two negative aspects of life in Milan consistently cropped up in reader responses: the high cost of living and the elevated pollution levels.

“One of the most polluted places in Europe” is how former Milanese resident Laura summed it up, and Veronica agrees that “the pollution is awful”.

According to Paul Pontecorvo, who’s lived in the city since 2006, it’s particularly bad in the winter: “the period between Jan-Feb with no air moving and smog is dreadful…you feel it in your lungs.”

Residents say the high levels of pollution is one of the worst things about life in Milan.

Residents say the pollution is one of the worst aspects of life in Milan. Photo: Marco BERTORELLO / AFP

Several respondents also warned that unless you’re on a reasonably high salary, you might not earn enough to take advantage of all that the city has to offer.

“Cost of living and taxes drastically outpace average income making it difficult to do much beyond survive,” is the gloomy assessment from Kurt, who’s lived in Milan for four and a half years.


Isibor Sunday, who has lived in Milan for four years, characterises life in the city as: “Working like elephant eating like ant.”

The high cost of rent is seen as a particular culprit when it comes to draining funds: they’re “too high and rising” says Veronica.

“Even after the pandemic housing prices are unreasonable, especially for students or anyone who’s salary is based on a fixed nation-wide standard (like university staff).”

And if you’re considering buying your own place, “the cost of buying a house is almost as bad as London but requiring a bigger deposit,” warns Steve.

‘Rainy and grey’

Other bugbears?

For an Italian city, Milan has a cold and rainy climate that some denizens find particularly unpleasant.

“It’s rainy and grey in November – it’s definitely not a Mediterranean climate,” says Kate.

Readers say Milan’s grey and wet weather leaves a lot to be desired.

Readers say Milan’s smog and weather are major downsides. Photo: Marco BERTORELLO/AFP

“The weather is awful,” agrees Marta, who has lived in the city for two years.

If you’re coming from northern Europe, though, it’s likely to be no worse what than you’re used to. “It can be a little damp in November, but only by Italian standards!” says James.

The traffic and driving culture is also considered a drawback: an “over-abundance of drivers make the streets dangerous, ugly, and stressful,” says Veronica.

Charlie, who’s lived in Milan for 14 months, agrees: “FAR too many cars and everyone thinks the pavement is a car park.”

READ ALSO: Ten things you need to know before moving to Italy

Then are some facets of the city that aren’t all that bad in their own right, but that may disappoint new arrivals who have certain preconceived notions of what it can offer.

A few of you noted although Milan is cosmopolitan for Italy, it’s less international than other global hubs.

“Don’t expect such a cosmopolitan hub as London or NY or even Paris,” was the advice from a new resident who’s lived in Milan for five months.

“It pretends to be international but it is not at all and even integrated, speaking the language and having friends there it never gives you the feeling of living in big city like London or Paris,” is the scathing review from one ex-resident of four years.

Milan: not as international as it thinks it is?

Milan: not as international as it thinks it is? Photo: Miguel MEDINA / AFP

Says Melanie, who first moved to the city four decades ago: “It has improved and become more international but the Milanese do have a small town mentality!”

And those who think Milan’s status as Italy’s most modern metropolis means they won’t have to deal with the country’s infamous red tape are in for a rude awakening.

“The bureaucracy is as bad as anywhere else in Italy,” says James; while Adam Rugnetta, who’s been a resident for five years, identifies the bureaucracy as the worst part of living in the city – though adds that “it’s the same in the rest of the country.”

Making the move

What guidance do our readers have for foreigners looking to make the move?

Make an effort to learn the language, before and after moving, was the most commonly issued advice.

Not only is the ability to speak Italian almost always critical if you want to find a job with an Italian company, “it makes a huge difference to understanding everything about the culture,” says Melanie.

“Try to speak Italian, even if you’re bad, people will appreciate the effort either way and probably reply in English most of the time,” advises Steve.

Learning Italian will ease your transition to Milan, say residents.

Learning Italian will ease your transition to Milan, say residents. Photo: Aaron Burden on Unsplash

Several readers suggested exploring different neighbourhoods of the city and being open to moving around until you find the one where you feel most comfortable.

And with rents as high as they are, Veronica even suggests looking outside the city for accommodation: “Really consider if it’s important to you to live *in* Milano proper or if you could be happy living in a surrounding suburb and commuting to work.” 

Some respondents pointed out that you can feel isolated in a big city like Milan, and it’s not always easy to make friends.

With that in mind, it’s important to take the initiative when it comes to finding a community.

“Be open and outgoing, speak to people, and if you want to make new friends and don’t have school age kids, get a dog!” is what Lulu, who’s lived in the city for five and a half years, suggests.

“Join clubs for expats, the local gym, book clubs, toddlers groups etc, it will be easier for you,” says Melanie.

And if you’re new to the city and struggling?

“Don’t worry about hating it all at first,” she says cheeringly. “It takes time!!”

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For members


North vs south: Where’s the best place to live in Italy?

You're probably familiar with some of Italy's regional stereotypes - but how true are they, and do they really affect quality of life? The Local asked Italy's foreign residents about their experiences.

North vs south: Where's the best place to live in Italy?

When searching for the best part of Italy to move to, you might bring with you some preconceptions about the south as being sunny and chaotic versus the supposedly cold and polluted north.

And Italian popular culture is full of such references, with comedies like 2010’s Benvenuti al Sud (‘Welcome to the South’) mining the humour in Italy’s famous north-south divide.

But is it true that the north of Italy is grey but (relatively) efficient, while the south is sun-soaked yet disordered?

We asked readers across the length of the peninsula to tell us whether this rings true in their experience, as well as for their advice for those starting out on their search.

READ ALSO: The best (and worst) places to live in Italy in 2023

One common assumption is that things work better in the north; particularly when it comes to Italy’s infamous red tape.

That’s partly true, says 39-year-old Canadian-British citizen Marina – at least in Trieste in the northeast, just across the border from Slovenia.

“Although the bureaucracy is a nightmare generally in Italy, I feel it’s slightly softened here because of the Austro-Hungarian influence,” she says.

“Unless you are really Italian, stay north of Rome,” is the advice from David, a British citizen in his 60s, who lives in the fishing village of Camogli in northeast Liguria.

But US citizen Lisa Key, 60, who lives in a northern city near Lake Garda, says residents have to deal with “the usual bureaucracy and a questura [police headquarters, where residency permits are issued] that’s not friendly to immigrants.”

When it comes to air pollution, there’s no denying that residents of northern Italian cities suffer disproportionately, with recent studies finding that Milan, Turin and Cremona are among the most polluted cities in Europe.

Milan: cold and smoggy? Photo by Miguel MEDINA / AFP.

Lisa Key observes that the sky in her northern city is “often hazy because of air pollution”.

“Avoid the north, it is polluted and the weather is bad,” is the verdict from 54-year-old New Zealander Andrew Diprose, who lived for two years in a Sicilian village in the province of Catania.

READ ALSO: Why is air pollution in northern Italy so bad?

But on the weather front, at least some readers in northern Italy disagree.

Joseph, 54, relocated from the UK to Valtellina, a valley in Italy’s Lombardy region across the border from Switzerland, which he descibes as “beautiful and sunny”.

Tim Last, a 58-year-old UK citizen, says he appreciates the mild climate in Lerici on the Ligurian coastline.

“Relative to other parts of Italy, the weather is not overly cold in winter, nor overly warm in summer, primarily due to the maritime climate,” he says.

Many northern Italy-based readers also say they appreciate the ease of access to other parts of Europe, as well as the range of activities within reach.

READ ALSO: Why are Trento and Bolzano rated the best places to live in Italy?

“In no more than an hour or two’s drive, we can enjoy the contrasts in scenery and culture of Austria, Slovenia and Croatia,” says Clarissa Killwick, a British citizen living in a small town in Italy’s industrial northeast.

“Beyond the zone industriali we have the prosecco hills which are wonderful for walking and cycling in.”

If you want guaranteed hot and sunny weather for much of the year, however, the south remains the undisputed champion.

The Sicilian capital of Palermo is “the best place for people who like sun, sea, nature, fresh produce,” says 53-year-old resident Judy Tong, from China.

81-year-old British citizen Margaret, a 16-year resident of the countryside around Martina Franca in the southern region of Puglia, highlights the “good weather” as one of her favourite things about the area, along with the “huge weekly market in town, excellent restaurants and cafes, friendly people.”

READ ALSO: ‘If you want quality of life, choose Italy’s sunny south over the efficient north’

Palermo: for people who love sun, sea and nature.

Palermo: “for people who like sun, sea and nature”. Photo by Michele Bitetto on Unsplash

One thing residents of the south agree on though is that newcomers will struggle to find work once they get there – though readers say that’s also true for many parts of the north.

“If you’re young and looking to work, go for one of the big northern cities,” advises 88-year-old Valentine Hornsby, who lives in a fishing village in the southern region of Puglia.

“Have a job!” is the advice from 55-year-old American René Alexander, who lives in Maniago in the northern Friuli Venezia-Giulia region.

With the rise in remote working, however, more foreign residents of working age can choose where they want to live; readers based in both Italy’s north and south told us they benefitted from the flexibility a remote job provided.

“I’m in Naples for a year and working remotely,” says 50 year-old Stacey Mickelbart from the US.

“I love exploring the city for a year; I think Naples is a city that really unfolds itself to you and rewards you the more time and effort you put into it.”

With the debate over the merits of northern versus southern Italy, it can be easy to forget the centre; especially lesser-known eastern regions such as Abruzzo and Le Marche. But residents here say they’re some of the happiest of all.

“We spent a lot of time traveling all over Italy from north to south. We picked the central area because of its natural beauty,” says 72-year-old US citizen William Purves, who lives with his wife in the town of Pacentro in the central-eastern region of Abruzzo.

“We love the mountains and the change in weather… When we can, we explore the area and meet so many friendly people.”

British citizen Sioux Whenray-Hughes, 59, who also lives in a small town in Abruzzo, describes it as “a great place to live,” noting that “it’s 30 mins to the coast and about an hour to mountains and skiing.”

Ascoli Piceno in the Le Marche region is “small enough to integrate in the community, large enough to get everything you need,” according to resident Laura Lee Ricci, 68, from the US.

And the town of Offida in Le Marche is “a great place to retire or raise a family,” says 65-year-old Walter Pancewicz from the US: “Safe and inexpensive.”

Thanks to everyone who took part in our survey.

Do you agree or disagree with the opinions expressed in this article? Leave a comment below or get in touch at [email protected] to share your experience.