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France faces Christmas cheese shortage

Unseasonably grim weather over the summer has limited cheese production in France with a potentially disastrous effect for end-of-year festivities.

Saint-Nectaire cheese production has been hampered by bad weather over the summer. French farmers warn of shortages over the festive period.
Saint-Nectaire cheese production has been hampered by bad weather over the summer. French farmers warn of shortages over the festive period. (Photo by LOIC VENANCE / AFP)

Heavy rains over the summer have lead to a particularly poor hay harvest, meaning that cows – who usually get extra nutrition from hay – have produced less milk than usual.

“So far, in terms of collected volume [of milk], we have seen a decrease of 15 to 20 percent,” said Arnauld Dischamp, vice president of Dischamp cheese makers. 

Dischamp is concerned over getting enough milk to make the cheese usually ordered in bulk for Christmas and New Year celebrations.

“All winter, we risk having a lack of volume and availability,” he warned in an interview on BFMTV, saying that there could be “tensions on the availability” of cheese stocks due to high demand at end of year parties. 

READ ALSO French summer was officially the coldest and dampest since 2014

Dischamps produces cheeses such as Saint-Nectaire, Cantal and Bleu d’Auvergne. Because these cheeses have protected geographical status, he is not able to make them from milk that comes from other, sunnier regions of France. 

Following laws of supply and demand, it is likely that the price of cheeses will increase over the Christmas period. 

This is not the first time France has faced a cheese shortage. Last year, there were fears over a raclette shortfall after demand soared during lockdown (a 20-25 percent increase over the course of the year). 

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Ironically, the worldwide consumption of dairy products has helped lead to this crisis in the first place.

Cows produce a huge amount of methane, which is at least 84 times more powerful in terms of the greenhouse effect than CO2. At least 27 percent of methane emissions come from animal agriculture, with cows the most significant contributors. 

Earlier this summer, French climatologist Françoise Vimeux explained to The Local that while it is difficult to attribute a singular weather event to climate change, periods of unseasonably intense rain are more likely. 

“We know that heating up the atmosphere and the oceans exacerbates incidents of intense rain,” she said. “We know that when the atmosphere warms by one degree, it can hold 7 percent more water vapour. So when a weather event comes and cools down this air mass, there’s a lot more water which can fall.”

Bad weather over the summer has also threatened the annual lentil harvest, which was half the normal level in the Haute-Loire region this summer. In Alsace, honey production has fallen by 80 percent. Green bean, pea, carrot, cauliflower and brocoli harvests have also suffered. 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Cheese in numbers: France’s obsession with fromage

From cheese types to the amount eaten per year, via cheese favourites - here's a look at how France really feels about fromage.

Cheese in numbers: France’s obsession with fromage

March 27th is the Journée nationale du fromage in France – so here are a few facts about the delicious dairy delicacy.

246

Charles de Gaulle famously once asked of governing France: “How can anyone govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?”.

His numbers were wrong. Producers in France make closer to 1,000 varieties of cheese – and some have estimated that figure could be pushed up as high as 1,600.

8

The number of cheese ‘families’ in France. A good cheeseboard in France is generally considered to consist of at least three ‘families’ – a soft cheese, a hard cheese and either a blue or a goat’s cheese. Remember, too, an odd number of fromages on a platter is better than an even number, according from cheese etiquettists

READ ALSO France Facts: There are eight cheese families in France

2.5

About how long – in years – it would take you to try every cheese made in France, if you tried a new variety every day. Life goals. 

95

The percentage of people in France who say they eat cheese at least once a week, spending seven percent of their weekly food bill on it.

READ ALSO Best Briehaviour: Your guide to French cheese etiquette

40

Two-fifths of French people say they eat cheese every day

57

The amount of cheese produced, in kilogrammes, in France every second, according to this website, which has a counter to show you how fast that really is. It’s estimated that 1.8 million tonnes of cheese are produced in France every year.

27

The French consume, on average, a whopping 27 kilogrammes of cheese per person per year.

READ ALSO Fonduegate: Why customer service is different in France

3

The three most popular cheeses in France, based on sales, are Emmental, Camembert, and Raclette – followed by mozzarella, goat’s cheese, Comté and Coulommiers.

63

Some 63 cheeses have been awarded the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée status, which means they can only be produced in a certain region.

1

France has – or at least soon will have – one dedicated cheese museum. 

READ ALSO Three things to know about the new Paris cheese museum

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