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CHRISTMAS

Christmas in Sweden 2023: The 10 best julbord in the Stockholm area

Whether you're a Swedish Christmas newbie or a seasoned julbord connoisseur, here's The Local's selection of 10 of the best festive meals in the Stockholm area this winter. Feel free to share other tips in the comments!

Christmas in Sweden 2023: The 10 best julbord in the Stockholm area
File photo of a julbord at Stallmästaregården in Stockholm. Photo: Leif R Jansson/Scanpix

The Swedish julbord is an extensive spread that has evolved from a variety of traditions and today consists of an elaborate buffet of typical Christmas food. It is popular not only to sit down for a julbord on Christmas Eve with family, but also to go out for a special julbord meal at a restaurant in the run-up to Christmas – with family, friends or colleagues. See here for the low-down on the Swedish julbord.

National Archives, Stockholm

This julbord, which in 2023 celebrates its 10th anniversary, is held in the former National Archives on Stockholm’s Riddarholmen islet. Created by Swedish chef Niklas Ekstedt, the julbord offers both traditional meaty dishes and a decent selection of vegetarian options.

When: November 10th-December 25th

Price: From 895-1,395 kronor depending on time of day and day of the week

Skansen, Stockholm

Outdoor museum Skansen is not only home to one of the best Christmas markets in the Swedish capital, it also offers julbord at some of its restaurants. Depending on which restaurant you go to, you can choose between a classic or vegan julbord, á la carte or buffet. You can also choose your preferred setting: Do you want to eat in a stylish, modern dining room, or a cottage with a history dating back to the 19th century?

When: Dates vary depending on restaurant, but the julbord is generally available from around mid or late November

Price: Again, the price varies depending on restaurant, but expect around 700 kronor

Domtrappkällaren, Uppsala

Venture north of Stockholm to the university town of Uppsala (around half an hour with SJ’s trains or an hour with SL’s trains – if you have a Stockholm SL travel pass, don’t forget you need to buy a separate add-on ticket for Uppsala) to have dinner at one of the town’s oldest restaurants. Domtrappkällaren is located in the cellars of a building originally from the 13th century, which has been renovated several times.

When: November 29th-December 22nd

Price: Between 395 and 695 kronor, depending on time and day of the week

Hermans, Stockholm

Hermans is one of few restaurants that offers an entirely vegan julbord – a green oasis for those who want to avoid the usually very meat-heavy Christmas buffet. Located on the hills of Stockholm’s hipster Södermalm island, it offers an incredible view over the Swedish capital.

When: Friday-Sunday the first three weekends in December

Price: 450 kronor for the Friday lunch julbord, 595 kronor for the other days. 450 kronor for students.

Julbord archipelago cruise, Stockholm

Can’t decide where to go for your julbord? Have one on the go, or rather, on a boat. The Strömma cruise company offers Christmas buffet cruises which will let you admire the views of the Stockholm archipelago while sipping a hot cup of glögg or munching on herring or Swedish meatballs. There are both lunch and dinner options, but be aware that if you go for the dinner option it will be dark outside – but, since this is Sweden in winter, there are sure to be plenty of decorative Christmas lights to enjoy as you travel past the many islands of Stockholm.

When: November 24th-December 24th

Price: 695 kronor for the lunch cruise, 895 kronor for the dinner cruise

Rissne gård, Sundbyberg

Rissne gård in Sundbyberg, north-west of Stockholm, was built in 1648 and renovated in the 19th century. Don’t forget to look up at the ceiling to admire the paintings, and pay special attention to the hand-forged door hinges, depicting troll heads and wild animals from the mid-17th century. And then, of course, there’s also the julbord which will serve up all the traditional food you might expect at a Swedish Christmas meal: herring, home-smoked salmon and sausages, and of course homemade meatballs. There are also vegetarian options.

Get here by taking the metro, blue line, to Rissne, then walk.

When: November 25th-December 24th

Price: Between 595 and 895 kronor, 1055 kronor on Christmas Eve

Gripsholms Värdshus, Mariefred

It’s worth going for a walk through lovely small town Mariefred before sitting down for a traditional Christmas meal at Gripsholms Värdshus. You may even want to pay a visit to Gripsholm Castle, built on the orders of King Gustav Vasa in the 16th century and home to one of the most startling pieces of taxidermy in Sweden: a lion that looks like… there are no words to describe it, click here to see for yourself.

Getting here takes about an hour by train from Stockholm Central. Take the train to Läggesta Station, then change to a bus to Mariefred.

When: November 24th-December 24th

Price: Between 795 and 995 kronor, 1,395 kronor on Christmas Eve

Van der Nootska Palatset, Stockholm

The traditional Swedish julbord is a smörgåsbord-style buffet, but at Van der Nootska Palatset the food will be offered to you at the table in four servings. The palace was named after Dutchman Thomas van der Noot, who built it after arriving in Sweden in the 1650s, and it’s the perfect venue to get into the Christmas spirit. Through the years it has also been home to some of Stockholm’s wealthiest families, and then during the area’s decadence of the 19th century, it hosted various businesses including a tobacco factory, a beer house and a brothel.

And yes, there be ghosts.

When: From November 23rd-December 21st

Price: 875-1095 kronor, depending on time and day of the week

Långholmens Wärdshus, Stockholm

The julbord at Långholmens Wärdshus starts, as many julbord do, with a cup of glögg, before you are invited to sit down and enjoy a traditional meal including a pickled herring they call the “Sean Connery herring”. You may want to go on a guided tour of the former Långholmen Prison before your meal. Stockholm’s Långholmen island was home to a prison from the 18th century until 1975.

When: November 17th-December 22nd

Price: Between 595 and 1095 kronor depending on time and day of the week

Stallmästaregården, Solna

Stallmästaregården’s iconic julbord is served up at Haga Tingshus, a former courthouse in the Haga Park north of Stockholm. Crown Princess Victoria and her family live in the park, but we can’t promise you’ll meet them. But never mind the royals, what food is on offer? All the Swedish Christmas classics, including salmon from the restaurant’s own smokehouse and homemade meat terrines. There are also vegetarian options.

When: November 14th-December 24th 

Price: Between 895 and 1095 kronor, 1195 kronor on Christmas Eve

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MALMÖ

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Malmö in southern Sweden may be more well known for cheap falafel than upmarket wine bars, but that doesn't mean there's nowhere in the city for you to enjoy a glass (or two...).

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Julie

This wine bar in the Gamla Väster neighbourhood – Malmö’s old town – specialises in natural wines, always offering at least 16 still wines, alongside other specialty wines like pet nats, champagne and sherry.

They offer wines by the bottle, with a smaller number of wines available by the glass, with seasonal alcohol-free options available. Food-wise, they do cheese and charcuterie alongside small plates based on locally produced ingredients – look out for their supper clubs with local chefs.

They don’t take reservations with exceptions for special events, like supper clubs, wine tastings or similar.

Although it has the feel of a specialty wine shop, Swedish alcohol laws mean that Julie can’t sell bottles for you to take home, so you’ll have to enjoy their wines on-site. Luckily, you can take home their cheeses and charcuterie.

Prices vary widely depending on the wine. Glasses start at around 65 kronor with food costing around 150-450 kronor.

Address: Tegelgårdsgatan 9

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-10pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Freja

Freja is a cafe and wine bar in the upmarket Davidshall neighbourhood just off the main shopping street. It opens at 9am (alcohol served from 11am), making it a great place for coffee and breakfast, lunch, or dinner and wine in the evening.

During the warmer months, they have an outdoor serving area on the Davidshall square.

They offer a handful of wines by the glass – reds, whites, orange and rosé, many of which are natural wines – with more on offer by the bottle. 

In terms of food, they do simple small plates, such as focaccia with burrata, mortadella and pistachio pesto, filled almond croissants or avocado toast with Danish Vesterhav cheese. Owner Agnes Hansson’s family own a farm around 40 kilometres east of Malmö in Skåne, where much of the cafe’s produce comes from.

Expect to pay between 80 and 160 kronor for a small plate, slightly less for snacks or desserts.

Address: Davidshallstorg 9

Opening hours: Tues 9am-4pm, Weds-Thurs 9am-9pm, Friday 9am-11pm, Saturday 9am-9pm, Sunday 9am-4pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Aster

This hip wine bar in Varvsstaden in Västra Hamnen may be more well known for its seasonal cocktails and natural wines – many of which are European – but it’s worth a trip for the food, too.

Aster won three awards at the Malmö Gastronomy Awards when it opened in 2021, and it’s easy to see why. There’s a wood-fired oven and grill in the open kitchen, with ingredients often sourced from the restaurant’s own garden.

The menu changes seasonally, and at the time of writing it included dishes such as smoked lamb ribs with kimchi and homegrown veg, grilled halibut with greens served with a white wine and crayfish sauce, as well as veggie dishes with grilled pumpkin, cannellini beans and oyster mushroom.

Expect to pay around 50-100 kronor for nibbles, 150-195 kronor for small dishes, 275-300 kronor for large plates (or 995 kronor for an 800g dry aged sirloin steak). Desserts 75-115 kronor.

Address: Jagaregatan 6

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11:30pm, Friday noon-midnight, Saturday 4pm-midnight

 
 
 
 
 
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Far i Hatten

This charming little restaurant in the middle of Folkets Park started life as a park restaurant with an outdoor dance floor in the late 1800s. 

It’s a strange place in some ways – it’s the perfect place to go for pizza and ice cream with children during the day, situated right next to a huge playground, but at night it transforms into a bustling bar and nightclub with a surprisingly long wine list.

Again, they have a long list of natural wines on offer, but there’s so much to choose from that you’re sure to find something you like no matter your tastes.

The dance floor is still very much in use, too – Far i Hatten hosts regular events and concerts, both for children during the day and for adults later on towards the evening.

Address: Folkets Park 2, Amiralsgatan 35

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11pm, Fri 4pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-8am

 
 
 
 
 
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MJ’s

MJ’s is technically a hotel (it was even crowned Sweden’s Leading Boutique Hotel for 2024), but they have a gorgeous covered indoor courtyard where you can enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner along with a glass of wine from their 11-page wine menu. 

This is sorted not only by type of wine (red, white, rosé, champagne, rosé champagne, cremant and pet nats), but also by country, with organic wines, natural wines, and skin contact wines all marked on the menu.

You can enjoy their wines alongside simple snacks – olives and almonds or a small cheese or charcuterie board – or larger dishes like beef tartare, asparagus with lumpfish roe or haddock sashimi. They also have a number of vegetarian options.

They also have a bar area (The Lobby Bar) which do cocktails and DJ sets on the weekend, and a speakeasy bar (Lillies) open on Friday and Saturday nights. 

Address: Mäster Johansgatan 13 (entrance to Lillies on Isak Slaktaregatan 5)

Opening hours: Restaurant: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-1:30pm, Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. Saturdays 1pm-10pm, Sundays noon-3pm. Lillies: Fri-Sat 8pm-1am

 
 
 
 
 
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