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CULTURE

Marseille: Why Hollywood can’t get enough of France’s ‘gritty city’

Its grimy glamour and dazzling light have captivated directors from Alfred Hitchcock to Steven Spielberg, and now Marseille is the setting for no less than three films at the Cannes film festival, including Matt Damon's latest drama.

Marseille: Why Hollywood can't get enough of France's 'gritty city'
Marseille has proved popular with Hollywood directors over the years. . Photo: Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP.

France’s raffish Mediterranean second city has iconic status in Hollywood as the setting for The French Connection thrillers of the 1970s.

Lately, the narrow alleys leading down to its Old Port have been thick with film crews.

As well as the Netflix series Marseille, which played up the city’s reputation for corruption and criminality with Gérard Depardieu as its crooked but charismatic mayor, a crop of gritty films by young French directors have also thrown it back into the spotlight.

Stillwater, which premieres at Cannes on Thursday, has Damon as a fish-out-of-water American oil-rig worker trying to get his daughter out of jail for a murder she claims she did not commit.

New York on the Med

The film was made by Tom McCarthy, who made the Oscar-winning Spotlight and introduced Game of Thrones star Peter Dinklage to the world with Station Agent.

It is no surprise that he should light upon Marseille, said William Benedetto, who runs the city’s mythic Alhambra cinema. “Marseille is the most American city in Europe. Its port, like New York’s, has been the springboard for so many stories,” he told AFP.

Like the Big Apple, Marseille is also a multicultural Babel, a city of immigrants with a big personality whose heroes and villains walk the tightrope of legality.

READ ALSO Why did so many in Marseille rebelled against French government health measures?

Netflix snapped up another Marseille-set film, BAC Nord, before it even premiered at Cannes, precisely because it has the hard-boiled quality of an early Martin Scorsese film.

It draws on a real-life corruption scandal in the city’s tough northern suburbs where detectives were accused of stealing from the drug dealers they were supposed be locking up.

Also penetrating these tower blocks is A Good Mother by acclaimed French actor-director Hafsia Herzi, which is also opening at Cannes.

As a native of the city, Herzi had the credentials to film there, but still had to negotiate with the locals before shooting.

Resists and revolts

Many legendary directors have been drawn to Marseille, including Hitchcock (Rich and Strange), Spielberg (Catch Me If You Can), and Alexander Korda, who made a trilogy of films about the city. And the number of films and series shot there has tripled in the last decade, according to local officials.

That’s great for the economy but perhaps risky for its reputation, since many play on its stereotype as the violent and dangerous “Kalashnikov City”.

“Marseille is a city that resists, that fights, that revolts, that doesn’t take anything lying down, and that borderline side of it can sometimes end up as a caricature like in BAC Nord,” said writer Vincent Thabourey. But the clichés have also given France’s former colonial port a global profile, he added.

That will get another boost from the hotly tipped Stillwater. Damon said he drew on his own emotions as a father of girls to channel the anger and frustration of a lost Oklahoma redneck abroad.

The character “runs into all the issues you have when you have the language and cultural impediment that an Oklahoma roughneck would have abroad”, Damon said in a recent interview.

The actor, of course, has history in Marseille since it was a fisherman from the city that pulled an unconscious Jason Bourne from the Mediterranean at the start of the blockbuster franchise.

Trying to do justice to a “city as complex as Marseille is a real challenge for directors”, said Thabourey, which is “why they probably keep coming back”.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Three things to know about the new Paris cheese museum

The Musée Vivant du Fromage is due to open its doors in early June, promising a unique immersive and interactive journey into France’s ‘culinary and terroir heritage’.

Three things to know about the new Paris cheese museum

Paris will soon be home to a cheese museum.

The venue, on Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, in the fourth arrondissement, will open to visitors on June 3rd, sending – no doubt – clouds of cheesy odours wafting daily down the street.

It will be at the same location as the former restaurant ‘Nos Ancêtres Les Gaulois’ (Our ancestors the Gauls), with the objective of becoming “an essential meeting place” for cheese lovers, as well as both novices and professionals within the industry.

Here are a few things to know about the new cheese museum;

It will be interactive

Fans of camembert, chèvre, brie, morbier, Roquefort and brebis, assemble! The museum promises an educational and fully interactive tour of France’s historic cheese heritage, including the science and varied tradition of cheese-making.

The first portion will give an overview of the ‘culture’ of cheese. Then, you will learn about its history, as well as how it is made and finish off with a tasting (dégustation).

READ MORE: Best Briehaviour: Your guide to French cheese etiquette

There’s a dairy and creamery

Part of the tour features a fully functional dairy, where visitors can witness cheese being produced before their very eyes. 

There are two goals for this part of the museum – to help people discover the different regions of France and their iconic cheeses, as well as to encourage young people  to consider careers in the farming and dairy industry, which is enduring something of a recruitment crisis in France.

You will also be able to purchase cheese and souvenirs at the museum’s boutique.

It can host private events

The museum can be booked for private catered events for up to 150 people in the evenings, from 7pm, with or without the services of a cheese expert, who can guide guests through tastings and demonstrations. 

READ ALSO 7 tips for buying French cheese

Tickets are advertised at €20 for adults and €10 for children. For more information and to book a visit, log on to website of the Musée Vivant du fromage. Blessed are the cheese makers!

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