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LIVING IN ITALY

‘The job can come as a shock’: What teaching English in Italy is really like

Teaching English as a foreign language can be a passport to a new life in Italy for native speakers. But how do you go about landing a job and what does it really entail? We spoke to people who've done it to find out the truth about TEFL.

'The job can come as a shock': What teaching English in Italy is really like
Photo: Francois Nascimbeni/AFP

Moving to Italy involves jumping through no small amount of hoops, and one of the biggest questions is how to find employment that will allow you to support yourself financially.

Contrary to popular belief, there are also plenty of ways to work in Italy without having yet mastered the language for those who haven’t had Italian lessons yet.

One popular choice is teaching English as a foreign language.

Speaking English at a native level is highly valued in Italy, which is often known for relatively poor English language skills – repeatedly ranking among the worst in the EU on this front.

But if you’re hoping to dive in without any experience or qualifications, be aware that there can be more to teaching English abroad than some people imagine.

READ ALSO: Job-hunting in Italy: The Italian words and phrases you need to know 

We spoke to several teachers of English as a foreign language in Italy to find out exactly what you should expect if you’re planning to teach in Italy.

‘The key’ to moving to Italy

Teaching English was just the ticket for Katrina Miller from Northern Ireland, who fell in love with Italy after a holiday to Puglia, the region known as the heel of the ‘boot’ in the south.

While on a solo holiday, she found herself wandering down charming streets when she had a life-changing realisation.

“It suddenly struck me, like a voice was saying, ‘this is where you’re meant to be’,” says Katrina.

“I immediately thought, how could I move to Italy? I don’t speak the language and what job would I do? Rationale kicked in for a moment before I told myself I’d deal with it,” she says. “I had no plan, no idea, but I just knew I had to move to Puglia.”

After returning from her holiday, she put her dreams into a practical plan.

She said she googled ‘how to live in Italy’ and joined Facebook groups for people who had moved to the area.

After some research and returning to Puglia “to check it wasn’t a holiday romance”, she discovered teaching English could be a good first step.

 The sunny southern Italian region of Puglia may be charming, but how easy is it to live in? Photo: Bogdan Dada/Unsplash

As she’d been a lecturer in beauty therapy in the UK, Katrina believed she could transfer her skills to teaching English relatively smoothly.

But as she quickly realised, even though this route was “the key” to moving to Italy, the job can come as “a shock”.

She found a job in a private language school after calling around in search of employment and doing some teacher training online.

“The job itself does challenge you, as teaching can be mentally stressful. I sometimes teach 3pm to 9pm back-to-back with a quick turnaround of students,” she says.

“Italians love to focus on learning English grammar, too, which you may take for granted as a native speaker, but you need to learn to teach it well to do the job effectively,” she added.

Although this is something that can be overcome in time, Katrina notes that what doesn’t ever seem to change is the Italian work culture.

READ ALSO: ‘You might not want to stay here, it’s crazy’: What to expect when you work for an Italian company

“It’s a different world. You don’t always get a contract, which isn’t very secure,” she says.

“We don’t get holiday pay or sick pay. If a student cancels the day before, you don’t get paid. So I don’t know what income I’ll get every month,” she adds.

Photo: Anna Monaco/AFP

A job with ‘shades of grey’

The insecurity is a point echoed by Sarah Taylor from York in England, who has taught TEFL in Italy at various times in different locations, from Conegliano near Venice, to Sicily.

She has worked under determinato contracts, which are fixed term and form part of an overall business culture that has “loads of shades of grey,” according to Sarah.

“Fairness is non-existent. Employers can lie a lot and you have to be direct and assertive,” she says.

It’s a reality check for a country Sarah describes as “a honey pot for dreamers” and a place where she loves to be.

“I felt like I was living again. I was staying in a fisherman’s cottage when I was in Sicily and I could hear the waves crashing and smell the sea while I used to write under the moonlight. It was a dream,” she says.

Although this sounds idyllic, Sarah warns against getting too romantic about the idea of teaching English in Italy.

“You have to be prepared for the reality or you’ll get really hurt,” she says.

READ ALSO: Where do all the native English-speaking residents live in Italy – and where do they avoid?

That goes beyond unstable working contracts. There’s also the matter of working hours, which may seem reasonable at first glance, as the teachers we spoke to had contracts of between 16-25 hours per week.

However, Sarah notes that you may have to be available from 8am-10pm on some days, meaning that you can spend a large portion of your day travelling between your accommodation and the school.

To that end, it’s also important to have a financial back-up, she advised.

Katrina agreed, saying she had to live off her savings when an initial offer of a summer camp job fell through at the last minute, soon after moving to Italy.

Can you find job security while teaching English?

But it’s not the same picture for all English teachers in Italy.

Scott Balaam lives near Florence and has had a vastly different experience.

He too found a position with a private language school and is so content with his role that he struggles to find many negatives – though he acknowledges that his situation is not the norm.

“I’m in a lucky position. I got what I wanted and my line managers explained everything really clearly. Touch wood, I’ve had no bad surprises so far,” he says.

After an initial period of being on a fixed-term contract, Scott received an indeterminato contract after one year with the company – a permanent position with benefits.

“This is very rare in the industry. It’s refreshing to be on a contract like this and have paid holiday and security,” he added.

READ ALSO: Freelance or employee: Which is the best way to work in Italy?

As for the wage, Scott admits it’s “not fantastic”, but “it’s a liveable wage locally”.

The salary varies from school to school and region to region, but on average, teachers can expect to earn around €1,000 – €1,500 per month.

However, what the job lacks in remuneration, the quality of life overall balances it out, according to Scott.

“What I have now is nothing compared to the life I had in the UK and Ireland. Yes, I earn far, far less and it’s true that you have to be able to pay your bills, but I still have a better work-life balance,” he says.

“Now I have time to go for a walk around Florence, take in the sights or go to the Uffizi art gallery. Even our dogs have a better quality of life now. We’re there to give them more attention and time,” he adds.

Despite the glowing review of his own working conditions, Scott urged others to keep their eyes open with regards to salary and working conditions.

All the teachers we spoke to advised to do research on schools and to be prepared to negotiate, especially if you’re experienced.

It’s also worth investigating the place you could move to and work out whether it’s right for you, recommends Katrina.

“Do a reconnaissance mission if possible to see where you’re coming to and see if you like it, or you could get a surprise,” she says.

READ ALSO: 16 of the most essential articles you’ll need when moving to Italy

Italy easily enchants holidaymakers, but you’ll need to be prepared for the reality of everyday life in the country. Photo: Brigitte HAGEMANN/AFP

The qualifications you need

Knowing which qualifications to get can be confusing, as there are many teacher training providers on the market.

It can affect the salary you can bargain for too, so choosing where to invest is a key consideration, according to Scott, who has worked in education management for around twenty years.

“It’s worth spending money and time on either the TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) or CELTA (Certificate in Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) qualification, as these are the two main ones most recognised throughout the world,” he says.

“Some online qualifications mean you don’t get any classroom experience, which wouldn’t be accepted by some schools.”

He also warns that some online training courses can be “clever”, in that they sell you a programme that won’t help you when trying to find an English teaching job.

“If in doubt, check that the course is recognised by the British Council,” he says.

In his experience, these well-known qualifications can cost around £1,500 to complete so “it might not be worth it if you just want to do it for a year.”

However, if this is potentially a longer-term career prospect, “it’s definitely worth investing in,” he adds.

Sarah also did a CELTA-accredited course and following completion, put her CV online. Shortly afterwards, she was called up and offered a job in Italy.

How important is it to be able to speak Italian?

So once you’ve got the certificate to prove you can teach English, do you need to speak Italian?

“The purpose of the job is that you don’t speak Italian and you immerse your students in English,” says Scott.

He admits his level of Italian is “very poor”, but on a day-to-day basis he only needs English for his job, so his Italian skills have taken a back seat.

He does regret not having prioritised learning Italian, though, especially as he’s been working in Italy on and off for years – but he’s now making an effort to learn the language more.

The teachers we spoke to all agreed on this.

“Try to learn the language before you come to integrate into the culture here. It’s also useful for everyday life, such as opening a bank account or going to the doctor,” says Katrina.

READ ALSO: Not just teaching: The jobs you can do in Italy without speaking Italian

For Sarah, an intermediate level is recommended for this purpose.

“It breaks down barriers and you’ll get treated like a foreigner if you don’t speak Italian,” she says. “I love the language and I think it’s rude not to learn it, but it depends on your personal attitude.”

Language misunderstandings can actually be a pro of the job, as Katrina said her students’ pronunciation mistakes – just like our gaffes when learning Italian – make them all laugh good-naturedly, making it a fun, interactive job.

The perks of being a TEFL teacher

Reality checks aside, teaching English in Italy comes with its advantages.

During the pandemic, these teachers were among the first to get vaccinated in Italy, as the government prioritised this group – something they felt was a privilege amid reports of many foreign residents unable to get their Covid shot.

There’s also a feeling of hope, as they believe there may be increasing demand for their services.

They reason Brexit could potentially make it more difficult for the same amount of English teachers to come to Italy as before, and they also pointed to Italy’s tourism sector as a source of work.

“People in Puglia will have to learn more English as it’s getting more and more touristy: real estate, cafés, bars and hotels all need to speak English. I have students who have a lot of English-speaking clients and they need to be able to speak to them,” says Katrina.

Teaching English in Italy can also be a springboard to other opportunities, as Scott notes many possible career paths come from it, such as working in schools and universities or creating educational content for publishers.

And it sometimes comes down to the bonus of simply being able to live in Italy.

“It’s not for everyone, but I love it here. I fell in love with the country and since coming on holiday, all I wanted to know was, ‘how can I make my dream come true’?” says Katrina.

“The honeymoon period is now over and I still want to stay,” she says, adding, “My heart would break and I would pine for Italy if I left. I followed my heart, it was love.”

Find out more about the residency and visa requirements you may face when moving to Italy for work here.

Read more about working in Italy here.

Member comments

  1. I work as an English language teacher in Puglia. It’s lovely to see that people are speaking about this line of work, it can be hard work but it is incredibly rewarding and like any job, if you enjoy it, then the benefits will outweigh the bad things you could encounter as well as there being potential problems with employers etc. From my experiences, it depends a lot on the school and the people you are working with and like with anything, can obviously have problems with contracts. CELTA (or other qualifications like TESOL) helps you to find good jobs and once you have the right school, it’s a great experience and gives you many skills you can take to lots of different potential jobs or great ways to progress in the field for those that want it. Absolutely great line of work and Italy is a beautiful place to go to.

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For members

MARRIAGE

Marriage vs de facto partnership – which is the better option in Italy?

High costs, unimplemented laws, and slow processing times are all barriers to having a de facto relationship recognised in Italy. Is it better to get married?

Marriage vs de facto partnership - which is the better option in Italy?

Back in 2016, the Italian government passed the Cirinnà Law, which granted more rights to unmarried couples in the country and cleared the way for the state to recognise them as de facto couples (coppia di fatto).

These rights include access to their partner’s medical records in the event of an illness, visitation rights if the partner is in prison, and eligibility to receive any damages if the partner died in a third-party accident. These were not rights unmarried couples had beforehand.

The law outlines that the couple can be heterosexual or same-sex, must be over the age of 18 and must not be related. Documents for an application include signing a Declaration of Constitution of De Facto Cohabitation (Dicharizione Di Costituzione Convivenza di Fatto) along with identity documents. The couple must be living together and registered at the same anagrafe.

It sounds easy enough to obtain, doesn’t it? But the theory turns out to be much more straightforward than the practical. 

Take Steven Leeming and his Italian partner Giulia. Steven partially relocated to Italy from the UK eight years ago. He had been living in the country on and off due to the duo working overseas. They sought a coppia di fatto after the Brexit transition period.

“No one really knew what to do because the transition period being over was so fresh, so people were a bit confused when we asked for our relationship to be recognised,” Steven says. 

When Steven applied for the coppia di fatto two years ago, he did not have Italian residency due to being out of the country for long periods of time. He was advised to enrol in an Italian language course so he could get a student visa and his permesso di soggiorno, which most non-EU citizens should have to be in the country if they want to spend more than 90 days in a 180-day period. The language course he was proposed cost around 5,000 euros.

READ MORE: What you need to know about divorce law in Italy

“It was too expensive for us,” his partner Giulia says. “So this was not a good option at all. We went to a lawyer instead and they said to us we should go to the anagrafe and ask for Steven to be put down in the same residency as me.”

This is where the couple faced a problem. The anagrafe could not put Steven down as living in the same address as they could not find Steven in the Italian system therefore they were told the couple could not register as a coppia di fatto.

“We were stuck in a never-ending loop,” adds Giulia.

This is a hurdle quite a few international couples looking to get coppia di fatto in Italy face if they do not have residency in the country. 

The Court of Bologna was one of the first to rule people without a permesso di soggiorno could get a coppia di fatto. Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP.

In 2020, the Court of Bologna and the Court of Modena ruled foreigners have the right to enter Italy to be reunited with an Italian partner even if they are not registered on the system. The Court of Milan, the province in which Steven and Giulia now reside, ruled the same a year later in 2021. 

“We were stuck,” Giulia continues. “We went in there with the laws printed out, and they still wouldn’t listen.”

Steven says he gave up on getting a coppia di fatto in Italy. It just so happens his granddad was Polish and he was able to get his Polish passport. As he is now a citizen of the European Union once more, it is easier for him to be in Italy.

“In total it took me seven months to get my passport and cost me 1,000 pounds, which is a hell of a lot quicker and cheaper than getting a coppia di fatto from here,” Steven adds.

The two were advised time and again to get married as it would make things easier.

“We didn’t want to do this, because it is within our legal rights to be recognised as a couple without being married,” Giulia says.

“I do understand the logic behind their advice though,” joins Steven. “It would have been quicker to be able to stay in the country and get your rights recognised.”

READ ALSO: Why you shouldn’t take your husband’s surname in Italy

Steven and Giulia aren’t the only couple who have been advised to get married.

UK citizen Robynne Eller, an E-learning consultant in Bari, says she’s been advised time and time again to do the same with her Italian partner. The two met in the UK and lived there together for two years before making the move to Italy in May 2021. 

Robynne enrolled onto a university course so she could get her permesso di soggiorno. When she finished, she and her partner applied for a coppia di fatto. That was last year, and there is still no word on the progress of her application.

“I feel like I’m stuck in limbo,” Robynne says. “With the permesso di soggiorno, I had my receipt in hand so I could leave and enter the country without being held up by border control. With the coppia di fatto application, I received nothing.”

Robynne is worried about leaving Italy for now, in case border control don’t let her back into Italy – but she says she’ll have to do it soon as her grandmother back in the UK is ill.

Her permesso expired in December last year. When she asked her immigration lawyer what to do, he responded that she was fine because her application for a coppia di fatto was in place.

“I have nothing to hand if they question me on my motive to be in the country,” Robynne says. “Without my documents, I can’t do much here. I can’t progress in my field of work because I need a contact and to have a contact you need to have a number. 

READ ALSO: The five most essential pieces of paperwork you’ll need when moving to Italy

“I can’t be put down on rental agreements. And I can’t fly out to see my family or go on holiday. I’m trying to construct a life here but I don’t know where I stand.”

Robynne and her partner have both paid sums of money to the immigration lawyer, who has not updated them frequently nor given them a timeline on when the coppia di fatto will be completed. She says it is infuriating because this is something you should be able to do alone without legal help.

Anything bureaucratic is really complicated and lengthy and I’ve learnt not to expect the same things as I would in the UK. But on top of that I want a future here and that isn’t secure yet.”

Robynne is also infuriated at the fact she has been advised to marry by local government workers. She sees the choice to marry as a highly personal one and discloses she would like to marry her partner one day, but she has recently got divorced and cannot contemplate marrying again so soon after. 

“If there is a law for a coppia di fatto, Italy should implement their law,” Robynne argues. “What they should not do is try and force marriage on people. That’s not right.”

The same advice was given to another British citizen, who has asked to remain anonymous for visa processing reasons. She moved to the Sorrento area just last month with her child and partner. 

They decided the coppia di fatto was not for them as it was too lengthy, and marriage is not on the cards just yet.

She was fortunate enough to be able to apply for a family reunification visa as her daughter is a dual citizen. She chose the visa as she supposed she would stand a greater chance of being permitted to stay here. 

“We’ve submitted the family reunification application and have a date to attend the appointment in November. I’ve been told I am fine to stay until then as it’s an ongoing thing, even though it will take me over my 90-day limit,” she says.

Unlike Robynne, she has been told she can fly to and from the UK with no restrictions. 

As seen with all three cases above, the coppia di fatto route in Italy, though legal, is by no means necessarily easy. There is still a lot of uncertainty around the process despite it being legal for eight years. 

Getting married for some may not necessarily be better, but as Steven pointed out, it would very likely be quicker.

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