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How the small state of Saarland is giving a French twist to German cuisine

Here's what happens when the hearty German meal meets French delicacy in the border state of Saarland.

How the small state of Saarland is giving a French twist to German cuisine
Archive photo shows “Dibbelabbes”, a kind of German hash brown created from grated potato, dried meat, onions and parsley. Photo: picture alliance / dpa-tmn | Eike Dubois

Germany is not known for its culinary delicacy. Between the Berliner Currywurst and Bavarian Weißwurst, the culinary theme seems to be “quick, hearty and carnivorous”. 

France, on the other hand, is still seen as a leading innovator in the cooking world. How did two neighbouring countries develop such different attitudes to food? And what happens in border counties, where they meet? 

This is the case in the Saarland, a German state that shares its entire southern and western borders with France. 

READ ALSO: Five maps that explain Saarland, Germany’s 100-year-old state

Saarland used to be the home of iron and coal mining, and so much of its traditional cuisine developed out of the “Bergmannskost” (miner’s diet). This meant substantial, high-calorie and affordable meals, largely based around potatoes. 

But because of the historical tug-of-war between the French and German borders, Saarland has experienced waves of French influence. Over time, this has created a fusion-culture that can be seen to this day: most of the population of Saarland is bilingual. 

The cuisine of Saarland has not remained untouched either, and many French dishes have found their way on traditional menus: from Schneckenpfanne (a dish of snails) to Flammkuchen (Tarte Flambé, a flat tart with onions and bacon).

The French Influence

It is said that the proportion of Michelin chefs to inhabitants is larger in the Saarland than anywhere else in Germany. Restaurants like Landgenuss, owned by the hospitality family Hämmerle, offer a menu of traditional cuisine, and still boast the Michelin star. 

Many attribute this to the French influence. Even in traditional dishes, the Saarländers are not afraid to cook with wine or work with strong flavours and spices such as mustard. 

Lyoner, the strong-tasting French sausage, has developed into something of a speciality in Saarland. 

In fact, the favourite regional dish remains a Lyoner cooked on the Saarländer “Schwenkgrill” – a grill plate suspended over an open fire – with a side of potatoes and Sauerkraut.

Archive photo shows the ‘Men’s Cooking Club Beaumarais Picard’ preparing a Schwenkgrill in Überherrn-Berus, Saarland in 2019. Photo: DPA

One man’s weed, another’s Salad 

Along with strong flavours, the Saarland adopts France’s love of seasonality. Uniting this with the affordability of ‘Bergsmannskost’, one of the signature dishes of the Saarland is Löwenzahnsalat – Dandelion Salad. 

The art of this dish is finding particularly young and soft dandelion leaves, and combining them with a honey-vinegar dressing to balance out the bitter taste. 

A German hero: The humble potato

However, no matter how much French influence skips across the border, one element of the Saarland cuisine remains distinctly German: potatoes are at the centre of everything. 

READ ALSO: Big birthday in a small state: Saarland celebrates 100-year-old history

Most of the traditional dishes are variations on the humble root vegetable. For example, there’s “Dibbelabbes”, a kind of German hash brown created from grated potato, dried meat, onions and parsley. 

The funky name comes from the dialect word for iron pan “Dibbe” and cloth or rag “Labbes”. It’s a typical comfort food associated with grannies throwing the ingredients into a big iron pot until they stick together like a kind of frayed potato-cloth. 

Another classic is “Gefillde”. These are big, round potato dumplings filled with meat such as liver paté. They’re usually served with a thick cream and bacon sauce with a side of Sauerkraut. 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Spargelzeit: Warm weather marks the beginning of ‘asparagus season’ in Germany

Asparagus farmers in Germany are expecting a good growing season this year. Here's everything you need to know about 'Spargelzeit' this year, including a few recipe ideas if you'd like to participate.

Spargelzeit: Warm weather marks the beginning of 'asparagus season' in Germany

Brace yourself for asparagus over everything.

It’s almost Spargelzeit (asparagus time) — the beloved time of year when asparagus is harvested and is therefore featured on virtually every menu across the Bundesrepublik.

READ ALSO: Spargelzeit: Six things to know about the German love affair with asparagus

Due to warmer temperatures in Germany this year, Brandenburg’s asparagus farmers are expecting a good season with an early harvest this year.

“We have been harvesting asparagus in the region for a few days due to the mild temperatures,” chairman of the Beelitz Asparagus Association, Jürgen Jakobs, told DPA.

With temperatures expected to reach 18C to 20C over Easter weekend, he expects strong growth to come. Sunny spring weather is ideal for asparagus cultivation.

The spear shaped vegetables can be expected to hit supermarket shelves in the early days of April.

What can I cook with asparagus?

Classic German asparagus recipes are intentionally simple; such as asparagus served with melted butter and potatoes (Spargel mit Butter), or with ham (Spargel mit Schinken) or with hollandaise sauce (Spargel mit holländischer Sauce).

But during Spargelzeit  it can seem as if restaurants are trying to one-up the competition by finding increasingly surprising ways to feature asparagus in unexpected dishes.

A rather versatile vegetable, asparagus can be sautéed, baked or boiled and is often paired with savoury, like a bit of meat, cheese or creamy sauce. It is also commonly included in salads, soups or on top of baked goods — such as on a pizza or frittata.

If you’re feeling a bit more experimental, you could try an asparagus gin martini.

Or, perhaps you’d like some asparagus for dessert? Such as this asparagus bundt cake, or this asparagus panna cotta.

READ ALSO: Spargelzeit recipe: Easy white and green asparagus tart

spargel mit hollandaise

For some German foodies hollandaise sauce and asparagus are a match made in heaven. Photo: picture alliance/dpa/dpa-tmn | Christin Klose

The going rate for asparagus

Compared to the same month last year, the price of asparagus has fallen by 9.9 percent. But when the first asparagus harvest hits the table in the coming weeks, consumers should expect higher than average prices, at least initially.

According to Germany’s Statistical Office, the sought-after stalks are more expensive at the beginning of the harvest in March or April than towards the end of the season in June.

Last year, prices in April were around 34.6 percent higher than in the following month of May, the office reported on Tuesday. 

READ ALSO: Are Germans really falling out of love with white asparagus?

Where does Germany’s asparagus come from?

The majority of asparagus consumed in Germany is cultivated domestically, in rural areas throughout the country. In some regions is celebrated extensively.

For example, the city of Beelitz in Brandenburg hosts Spargel Fest each year in the beginning of June — an event that attracts more than 50,000 visitors. Also the town of Schwetzingen, in Baden-Württemberg regularly appoints an Asparagus Queen

In fact, people who are especially fanatical about the folate-packed vegetable can travel along the “Asparagus Road” which connects the two cities.

In 2023, the area used for asparagus farming in Germany was reduced by four percent to 20,400 hectares. However organic asparagus farming managed to expand by three percent to 1,700 hectares.

The domestic harvest volume rose by 1.4 percent to just under 112,000 tonnes. The largest quantities were grown in Lower Saxony, Brandenburg and North Rhine-Westphalia.

In addition, 19,300 tonnes of asparagus was imported. The most important countries of origin were Greece (28 percent) and Spain (27 percent).

With reporting by DPA.

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