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MUNICH

Eat your way through Munich: The best stops to make on a foodie walking tour

Restaurants, cafes and beer gardens continue to be closed for sit-in dining in Munich. So why not get some exercise in the Bavarian capital while devouring its best gourmet goodies along the way?

Eat your way through Munich: The best stops to make on a foodie walking tour
Two people walk past a sign reading 'Treats only to-go' in Munich's Englischen Garten am Chinesischen Turm in late March. Photo: DPA

What’s a morning without some good coffee? That’s why we’ll begin our food-walk at caffe conté, the self proclaimed “place to be for breakfast, lunch and coffee”, that offers not only great morning brews, but also tea and fresh juices. With the caffeine (or vitamins) kicking in, it’s time to get going. 

We’ll head down Ainmillerstraße towards Englischer Garten, passing by Giselastraße, until we reach the Kristallbrunnen. Then, head right into Englischer Garten, and take a first little break at Werneckwiese, a big green, clean meadow. (Perhaps pack a snack from caffee conté to enjoy here).

Head south towards Chinesischer Turm and enjoy the spectacular view. Then, head on towards the Isar and take a short break to enjoy some art at the Skulpturengarten Tucherpark. Head back towards the Eisbach and cross the Tivolibrücke. Take a minute to check out the — slightly creepy — sculptures lining the bridge.

Then, cross the Max-Joseph-Brücke to the other side of the Isar.  You’re right at the famous Isar Beach now. Take a break, let your feet dangle in the water, enjoy the clear water. Now, we’ll do some walking: Head south along the Isar, until you reach the Friedensengel. Take some minutes to walk up to the top and enjoy a moment of quiet under the golden angel. 

Continue south until you reach the Maximilianeum. It has been housing the Bavarian State Parliament since 1949 and is known for its impressive classic architecture. 

From the Maximilianeum, return down to the Isar and take the Mauersteg down south. The Mauersteg is a path built on top of the Isar, like a bridge but instead of crossing, you can walk on the river for about 250 meters. Keep walking until you reach the Muffatwerk, then take a left and return to the main street (Am Gasteig). 

Time for a refreshment and a short break! Just across the Gasteig you will find True & 12 Handmade Ice Cream, one of Munich’s finest ice cream makers. All their products are fresh and made of fresh milk from grass fed cows. Grab yourself a cone and explore the Gasteig with it. Even though it’s closed at the moment, the impressive architecture is worth a look. 

A view looking out from Munich’s scenic Gasteig. Photo: DPA

Head back towards the Isar and cross the Ludwigsbrücke to the Museumsinsel. Take a short break at the Vater-Rhein-Brunnen, one of Munich’s many classical fountains. It is dedicated to Vater Rhein, the old mythological god of the river Rhine. 

Cross the rest of the bridge towards the inner city and take a short break at the Isartor. It was one of the four gates of the medieval city wall and was first constructed in 1337. 

From the Isartor follow the Isartorplatz and then turn onto Westenriederstraße. Keep going until you reach the famous Viktualienmarkt. It’s time for our next Schmankerl (treat). After all that walking — time for a rich Bavarian specialty — Schmalznudeln. Sugary yeast dough, deep fried and sprinkled with more sugar — perfect for a little snack. If you prefer something even heartier, the Schmalznudel — Café Frischhut also proposes Krapfen, a Bavarian speciality, similar to a donut with filling instead of a hole. 

A Bavarian ‘Krapfen’ and flavoured beer. Photo: DPA

To burn all that extra-energy, we’ll continue our walk for a little bit: Take the Blumenstraße and head south, pass by The Seven, now of Munich’s few skyscrapers, and head towards Sendlinger Tor. Head down Pettenkoferstraße towards Theresienwiese. Enjoy a stroll on the empty lot (really makes you realize how huge the Oktoberfest is!)

And head on towards the Bavaria Statue. Enjoy the view over Munich, then head north on Theresienhöhe and take a turn onto Gollierstraße. Keep walking until you reach Bodhi, a traditional Bavarian Wirtshaus (restaurant) with a twist. All dishes are a vegan interpretation of Bavarian classics, like Käsespätzle

The whole walk took almost 10 kilometers. A great way to enjoy Munich’s finest — both in look and taste. 

By Lisa Schneider

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FOOD & DRINK

Let them eat bread: the origins of the French baguette

More than six billion baguettes are baked each year in France and UNESCO has now inscribed the tradition in its “intangible cultural heritage” list.

Let them eat bread: the origins of the French baguette

The French baguette – one of the country’s most abiding images – was given world heritage status by UNESCO on Wednesday, the organisation announced.

READ ALSO French baguette gets UNESCO world heritage status

Here are some of the more popular theories:

Napoleon’s Bread of War
The oldest tale has the baguette being kneaded by bakers in Napoleon’s army. Less bulky than a traditional loaf, the long slim shape of the baguette made it faster to bake in brick ovens hastily erected on the battlefield.

France’s most famous man of war was preoccupied with getting his men their daily bread.

During his Russian campaign in 1812, he toured the ovens daily to sample the day’s offering and ensure the crusty batons were being distributed regularly, according to historian Philippe de Segur.

He also had portable bread mills sent to occupied Moscow, but the setbacks suffered by the Grande Armee in one of the deadliest military campaigns in history ended his bid to export the doughy staple.

Viennese connection
Another theory has the baguette starting out in a Viennese bakery in central Paris in the late 1830s.

Artillery officer and entrepreneur August Zang brought Austria’s culinary savoir-faire to Paris in the form of the oval-shaped bread that were standard in his country at the time.

According to the Compagnonnage des boulangers et des patissiers, the French bakers’ network, Zang decided to make the loaves longer to make them easier for the city’s breadwomen to pluck from the big carts they pushed through the city’s streets.

Breaking bread
Another theory has the baguette being born at the same time as the metro for the 1900 Paris Exposition.

People from across France came to work on the underground and fights would often break out on site between labourers armed with knives, which they used to slice big round loaves of bread for lunch.

According to the herodote.net history site, to avoid bloodshed, one engineer had the idea of ordering longer loaves that could be broken by hand.

Early rising
In 1919, a new law aimed to improve the lives of bakers by banning them from working from 10 pm to 4 am.

The reform gave them less time to prepare the traditional sourdough loaf for the morning, marked the widespread transition to what was called at the
time the yeast-based “flute”, which rose faster and was out of the oven in under half an hour.

Standardised at 80 centimeters (30 inches) and 250 grams (eight ounces) with a fixed price until 1986, the baguette was initially the mainstay of wealthy metropolitans, but after World War II became the emblem of all French people.

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