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FOOD AND DRINK

Ask an Italian: What are the unbreakable rules for making real pasta carbonara?

In honour of world carbonara day on April 6th, one Italian food writer shares his advice on how to recreate the Roman classic without causing upset.

Ask an Italian: What are the unbreakable rules for making real pasta carbonara?
Fans of the traditional Italian carbonara recipe were outraged this week by a version including tomato sugo. (Photo by Andreas SOLARO / AFP)

There are countless variations on the classic pasta alla carbonara recipe out there – much to the chagrin of purists. But if you want to do as the Romans do, there are some rules to keep in mind.

The classic carbonara recipe, first published in 1960 and typical of Rome and its surrounding Lazio region, is made with eggs, pork cheek (guanciale), pecorino cheese and pepper – and, as any Italian will tell you, absolutely no cream.

READ ALSO: Why do Italians get so angry if you mess with classic recipes?

But unorthodox adaptations of Rome’s signature dish famously leave Italian gourmands feeling nauseated – and furious.

Italian chefs have angrily reminded foreigners attempting to adapt the recipe over the years to “keep things simple” in order to prevent their spin on the classic from becoming an “insult”.

The Local asked Italian food writer Roberto Serra, who blogs at Eatalian with Roberto, what exactly non-Italians need to know before they can call a dish a “real” Roman-style carbonara.

Roberto shared his translation of a widely-shared Italian social media post listing the ‘decalogue’, or the ten golden rules, for making carbonara – which he describes as an example of “typical Roman humour”.

The ten Roman carbonara commandments:

  • “Always use guanciale, not bacon – if we meant bacon, we would have gone to the USA (guanciale is the pork cheek, while bacon is part of the belly).
  • No parmigiano reggiano, just pecorino cheese. Anyone who says “half and half” has something to hide. (I love Parmigiano Reggiano, I even wrote a guide about it, but always remember that Italian food is regional: with carbonara you are in Lazio, so don’t use cheese from Emilia Romagna.)
  • Never cook the egg, it is not an omelette! (That’s why the final step is after you turn the heat off, it must be creamy…)
  • No garlic, no onion, it’s not a ragù!
  • No oil, no butter, no lard. Just the fat from guanciale. (Cook the guanciale at medium heat and it will release enough fat.)
  • No spicy pepper, it is not Calabrian (i.e. not from the southern region of Italy famous for spicy foods).
  • No spices other than black pepper are allowed.
  • Anyone who adds cream should go to jail (you know, we take food seriously, sometimes too much…).
  • Never, ever say ‘carbonara’ and ‘vegan’ in the same sentence.
  • Tonnarelli, spaghetti, bucatini, rigatoni (four different shapes of pasta) are all good, just don’t overcook it!”

For more tips on executing the perfect pasta alla carbonara yourself, see here for Roberto’s classic recipe.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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