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TOURISM

Milan reopens Last Supper and Duomo to visitors for first time in months

If you're in Milan this week, it could be your best chance to admire Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper or stroll the Duomo without the crowds.

Milan reopens Last Supper and Duomo to visitors for first time in months
Milan's Duomo was last open to tourists in November 2020. Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

Two of the city's most famous attractions reopen to visitors this week: the Last Supper on Tuesday, February 9th and the Duomo from Thursday, February 11th.

Both have been closed since November because of the coronavirus pandemic, though the cathedral remained open for religious services.

Now that the surrounding region of Lombardy is a 'yellow zone', like most of Italy, museums and galleries are allowed to reopen – though only from Monday to Friday, and with social distancing measures in place.

REMINDER: What are the rules in Italy's Covid-19 'yellow zones'?

Up to 12 people will be admitted to see the Last Supper every 15 minutes as it reopens this week, rising to 18 from next week.

But the biggest change is that you'll be able to buy a ticket on the spot for entry the same day, without reserving online in advance. Pre-pandemic, tickets were often booked out for weeks.

“I invite everyone in Milan and Lombardy to visit the Last Supper in these special conditions,” regional museum director Emanuela Daffra told the Corriere della Sera. “The Covid emergency has at least had the effect of reducing the legendary wait, and this is a real opportunity for the public.”


Admiring the Last Supper in pre-pandemic days. Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

While nearly 450,000 people visited Da Vinci's masterpiece in the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent in 2019, the site had just over 132,000 visitors in 2020. It was closed from February to June in the first wave of the pandemic, then reopened over the summer only to close again in early November. 

The Duomo was closed to tourists over the same period, though millions admired it over the internet when Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli gave an evocative solo concert in the empty cathedral while much of the world was in lockdown (even if the opera star later disgraced himself by urging people to disregard health restrictions). 

From Thursday, it will be open to visitors once more from 10am to 5pm, Monday to Friday, with people encouraged to book entry online.

READ ALSO: 

Non-essential travel between regions remains banned in Italy until at least February 15th, meaning that the only people who'll be able to visit either attraction are people based in the region of Lombardy.

The regional travel ban, along with restrictions on international travel, has resulted in unprecedented opportunities for residents to visit their biggest local attractions without the usual crowds, whether it's the Vatican Museums or Colosseum in Rome, or the carnival in Venice. 

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MILAN

Six downsides to expect from life in Milan

Milan is popular among international residents thanks to its job market, nightlife and public transport. But what are the downsides of life in the northern Italian city, and how bad are they really?

Six downsides to expect from life in Milan

Milan is one of the most popular Italian cities among foreigners, with over 475,000 international residents (around 14.7 percent of the city’s total population).

After Rome, Milan is also the second-most popular Italian destination among native English speakers, with UK and US nationals leading the pack with 2,380 and 1,500 residents respectively.

READ ALSO: Ten things you need to know before moving to Italy

But, while life under la Madonnina comes with a number of attractive upsides, residents also have their share of complaints: in fact, the city is regularly voted one of the “worst” in the world for foreigners to move to.

So what are the potential negatives to know about if you’re planning a move to Milan?

Expensive accommodation

Whether you’re renting or buying, finding accommodation in Milan will not come cheap. 

According to the latest data from property market portal Wikicasa, monthly rent comes at an average of around €22 per square metre – that’s €6 over the regional average, and almost €10 higher than national average. 

READ ALSO: ‘It takes time’: Foreign residents on what it’s really like to live in Milan

According to Numbeo estimates, renting a one-bedroom flat in the city centre will set you back over €1,400 a month on average, while renting the same type of flat in the outskirts will come at an average monthly price of around €950. 

If you’re looking to purchase a property in the city, the average asking price is €5,470 per square metre – that’s more than €3,000 over the regional average, and over €3,500 above the national average (€1,910 per square metre).

Milan, view

A general view of Milan in April 2023 from the Foundazione Prada building. Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP

High cost of living 

Over the past few years, Milan has consistently ranked amongst the Italian cities with the higher living costs (it took the title of most expensive Italian city to live in in 2022).

According to estimates from online investment advisor Moneyfarm, the average Milan family spends around €450 a month on groceries, €50 more than the average family in Rome.

READ ALSO: How much does it cost to live in Milan in 2024?

A restaurant meal in Milan will also generally cost you more than in most other Italian cities. For instance, a three-course meal for two in a mid-range city restaurant will set you back around €80 in Milan, while the national average stands at €50.

As for utility bills, monthly bollette for an 85-square-metre flat in Milan are estimated to add up to an average of €252.

Questionable driving 

If you have never driven in Milan before, it may take you some time to get accustomed to local driving habits. 

Milan is a bustling city where everyone seems to always be in a rush. This goes for motorists too, who tend to routinely neglect speed limits and traffic signs.

Overall, defensive driving is strongly advised for people that are new to the city.

Pollution

Though it slid down from second to tenth place in the latest ranking of the most polluted Italian cities by environmental watchdog Legambiente, Milan residents continue to breathe some of the most polluted air in the country.

The city’s population density, road traffic and heavily industrialised outskirts all contribute to poor air quality, with the situation generally being worse during the cold months due to dry spells.

READ ALSO: ‘I’ve lost hope’: What it’s like living in Italy’s most polluted cities

Anti-smog measures, including bans on high-emission vehicles, were introduced in late February in Milan after particulate matter (PM10) levels exceeded limits for a fourth day in a row. 

Smog, Milan

A blanket of smog covers Milan’s skyline on February 21st 2024. Photo by GABRIEL BOUYS / AFP

Not-so-Mediterranean climate

Italy is generally known for its sunny and pleasantly warm weather conditions for the most part of a year, but Milan has little in the way of that. 

Summers in the city are hot (between 25C and 30C on average during the day) and very, very humid, while winters are fairly cold (temperatures range from -2C to 8C on average) and gloomy. 

READ ALSO: Six essential apps that make life in Milan easier

Also, Milan has between 80 to 90 rainy days a year, with May generally being the rainiest time of the year.

Critical taxi shortage 

This is an issue that is by no means specific to Milan alone, as most major cities in Italy have long been dealing with cab shortages. 

But to give you an idea of the scale of the problem, a recent report from Italian newspaper Il Corriere della Sera found that the Milan metropolitan area has around 500,000 “unresolved calls” – that is, people who try and fail to book a taxi – every month. 

READ ALSO: Italy’s taxis are often a nightmare, but will things ever change?

Normal Uber services are not available in the city; Uber Black services are, but a ride won’t come cheap (a ride from central Milan to Malpensa airport can cost between €170 and €305).

If you live in Milan, do the positives outweigh the negatives? Let us know in the comments below.

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