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Life in Italy: ‘Local musicians are helping our Italian village look to the future’

The arts have long been part of everyday life in many Italian towns and villages, and this hasn't changed during the pandemic. American writer Mark Hinshaw tells us how musicians continue to inspire his local community, despite recent tragedy.

Life in Italy: 'Local musicians are helping our Italian village look to the future'
Musicians Diego Mercuri and Giulietta Natalucci from the Marche region of Italy. Photo courtesy of Mark Hinshaw

In the Marche region of Italy, many small towns specialize in particular crafts. These skills have been developed over generations, with families carrying on traditions and talents over time, refining them and adding new layers.

This is done not so much for the tourist trade as for other Italians who appreciate finely honed works of art. 

In the town of Montottone, clay-fired pottery is a big thing. We have met the Bozzi family that owns one of the artisanal workshops. Walking into their place is like turning the clock back two centuries. It is carved out of the thick, medieval-era city wall, with recesses and rooms connected by crooked staircases and narrow passageways. 

Life in Italy: 'How our village kept its sense of community throughout lockdown'

The wheels and worktables are surrounded by plates, cups, vases, pitchers, and other utilitarian objects lined up on shelves in various stages of being finished. Some are awaiting the kilns, others have been fired and glazed. While basic shapes of the pottery have stayed the same, the current generation has enlivened them with modern, colorful glazes. Ancient skill and modern methods are fused together.

Another town, Offida, specializes in a unique form of lace known as tombolo. Workshops flanking the main street are open to passersby. Women, and some men,  sit behind small rounded work benches, making tiny weaves with colored threads pulled from spools held between their fingers.

Sometimes the lacework is traditional cloth. Other times they weave fine metallic threads to create elegant and feather-light earrings, bracelets, and necklaces.  

Our own small village, Santa Vittoria in Matenano, specializes in music. 

There is an annual music camp for youth from all over the country. They come for classes and recitals in space provided by the city in a restored palazzo. Visiting musicians stay for days or weeks and perform in the small, classic opera house, with its plush seats and semicircular arrangement of tiers of private boxes – a diminutive version of the grand theatres in other big cities.

READ ALSO: The ups and downs of buying a property for retirement in an Italian hilltop town

The city has its own band, which is the size of a small orchestra but without the strings. They play both well-known Italian songs as well as popular American selections, past and current. Words to the latter are apparently well known by people who live here, as they will often sing along to the instrumental music in English. 

In 2019, before the pandemic closed these venues, the town was graced with the presence of a group of Japanese classic violinists who performed free in locations throughout the village.

So its not surprising for this town of only 1500 to have produced one very talented musical couple. Diego Mercuri and Giulietta Natalucci come from large families well-known in the area. We know other branches of the family; one provides us with garden supplies and plants each spring and delivers bags of pellets for the heating stove the rest of the year.

Both Diego and Giulietta take their music seriously. This is their calling, as it were. They play music on several instruments and sing. Giulietta’s mother, Tiziana, sometimes joins them on the pianoforte. 

Diego and Giulietta perform at an outdoor concert. Photo courtesy of Mark Hinshaw

The couple is also determined to make the best of the limitations imposed during the pandemic. With performance venues closed, they have turned to the medium of the internet. 

One free performance, held on a stage of a big theatre for visual effect, garnered 3500 online viewers – a far larger audience than any theatre space in this region. They made use of the talents of another creative group, Fucine Della Luce, also based in Marche, to create a video of the performance. 

As for me, I enjoy seeing them perform live in their own house where they seem so close that they appear to be in the room. Diego does lament the absence of interacting with a live audience as he draws energy from the crowd.

Like many Italians growing up, they learned to play music at an early age. Giulietta’s mother taught her piano when she was six. Diego discovered his passion as a teenager. His father took him all over the country, exposing him to different aspects of Italian culture. 

Now in their twenties, Diego and Giulietta draw inspiration for their compositions from nature, from their neighbors, and from their family. Their music has a soulful joy to it that expresses both sorrow and a clear lust for life. 

For good reason. Last spring, Giuletta’s mother contracted Covid and was in the hospital for two months on a ventilator. She eventually recovered. Diego’s father was not so fortunate; he died from Covid. 

Likewise, Giulietta’s grandfather, the much revered village pharmacist, contracted Covid; ten days later he also was dead. The family has seen more than its share of tragedy in the past year. 

Life in Italy: 'Why I left Rome for a small lakeside village and never looked back'

Yet, neither Giulietta nor Diego are morose about the terrible events of the past year. They are gregarious, amusing, upbeat people, eager to refine their music, anxious to share it with others, and looking to the future. 

Over a delightful snack recently they shared with us a popular phrase in the local dialect. “È jitu.”  It is pronounced, roughly, like “Eh gleetoo,” and is accompanied with a wave of the hand backward, past the head. There is no simple translation into English. But it essentially means, “Do not be deterred by something that happened in the past.” 

Undeterred, Diego Mercuri and Giulietta Natalucci are moving into the future with their art and their lives intertwined.

Mark Hinshaw is a retired city planner who moved to Le Marche with his wife two years ago. A former columnist for The Seattle Times, he contributes to journals, books and other publications.

An earlier version of this article appeared on Seattle's Post Alley.

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CULTURE

Ice to AC: Nine of the most common American misconceptions about Italy

Have your friends in the US mentioned any of these common beliefs about Italy? Some come close to the truth, but others are totally misplaced.

Ice to AC: Nine of the most common American misconceptions about Italy

It’s no secret that Americans love to visit Italy; the Washington Post predicted in December that the country would be Americans’ top foreign tourist destination for 2023, and the volume of US visitors who’ve arrived in Italy since then appears to have borne this out.

But while many Americans have a deep knowledge of – and love for – Italian culture, there are some surprisingly enduring myths about Italy that can be found in the USA specifically.

Some come close to the truth, while others fall wide of the mark.

There is no ice in Europe/Italian restaurants charge for ice

Fiction – Americans love ice, beverages are routinely served with it and refrigerators in the US often have some type of ice dispenser attached to the door.

But in Italy, ice is simply less prioritised. While ice in your drink will usually not cost you extra, you might need to specifically request it. Soft drinks in Italy are usually served without ice, so if you want your beverage iced, you need to request the drink con ghiaccio – with ice.

READ ALSO: Aperol and aperitivo: A guide to visiting bars and cafes in Italy

A classic Italian spritz should always come with ice.
A classic Italian spritz should always come with ice. Photo by Tomasz Rynkiewicz on Unsplash

Italian homes don’t have dryers

Fact (mostly) – Tumble dryers do exist in Italy, but they’re rare. A survey published by Italy’s national statistics office (Istat) in 2014 found that just 3.3 percent of Italian households had one, whereas 96.2 percent had a washing machine and 39.3 percent a dishwasher.

Those washing lines strung with laundry hanging above the heads of passers by aren’t there just to create a quaint backdrop for photos – people make wide use of the abundant sun to air dry their clothes and sheets.

That does not mean that Italians in cities don’t occasionally use clothes dryers though if they’re in a rush; some might take items to a nearby laundromat.

McDonald’s is healthier in Italy

Fact (sort of) – McDonald’s uses different ingredients based on the country, and the Big Mac in Italy is (slightly) healthier than the one sold in the United States. It is slightly less calorific, with 509 kCal in contrast to the American Big Mac’s 540 kCal per 100g.

The Italian Big Mac also has less salt and fat, but it does not compare to the world’s healthiest Big Mac (found in Israel). 

READ ALSO: Which stores across Italy sell American foods and drinks?

McDonald’s in Italy also uses EU-sourced ingredients, and the EU restricts the usage of additives and growth hormones. For example Azodicarbonamide which is used to bleach flour, is banned in the EU, but not in the United States, where McDonald’s was still using it as of 2016.

It is true, however, that you can buy beer in McDonald’s in Italy. 

McDonald’s burgers are marginally healthy in Italy compared to the US. Photo by Brett Jordan on Unsplash

Italians drive small cars

Fiction (increasingly) – Think of Italian cars, and you might picture a classic Fiat 500 puttering around picturesque cobbled streets – but that’s all changing.

2021 was a historic year for the Italian automotive industry: the sale of SUVs surpassed those of medium-sized sedans for the first time, claiming 48 percent of the market share compared to the sedan’s 45 percent.

That may not match the US, where SUVs and pick-up trucks currently account for around 73 percent of vehicles sold, but it’s a huge increase from 2012, when SUVs made up just 17 percent of vehicle sales in Italy.

There are no free public toilets

Fact (mostly) – You will occasionally find an Italian town or city that offers some free public toilets. For the most part though, you’ll have to pay, including in train stations – and even paid public toilets are few and fair between.

Instead, you’re better off heading to one of the many caffe-bars found all over the country and paying for a euro for a bottle of water or a coffee so you can use their facilities – if you ask nicely, you might even be allowed to go for free.

Metro stations, supermarkets and grocery stores tend to not have any toilets at all, and neither will most clothing stores. One place you will find plenty of free public bathrooms, though, is a motorway service station.

Something that strikes many visitors to Italy as odd is the lack of seats on public toilets. Exactly why this is the case is debated, but there’s a general consensus that the phenomenon has rapidly accelerated in the past couple of decades.

A street sign at an antiques fair in Turin. Free toilets in Italy are few and far between. Photo by rashid khreiss on Unsplash

Italy doesn’t have air conditioning

Fact (sort of) – There’s not no air conditioning in Italy – in fact data from Italy’s national statistics office showed that one in two Italian households had AC in 2021.

It’s far less popular than in the US, though, where 90 percent of households have air conditioning. There’s still not much of a culture of AC in Italy, where many believe it will give you a colpo d’aria leading to at best a sore neck and at worst pneumonia – so even households that have a unit tend to use it sparingly.

READ ALSO: The illnesses that only seem to strike Italians

If your hotel or Airbnb doesn’t specifically mention AC, you can assume it doesn’t have it.

Coca-Cola tastes different in Italy

Fact – While Coke is available almost everywhere in the world, the actual ingredients in Coca-Cola are different in some countries, which could lead some Coke connoisseurs to notice a difference in taste between the products in the US and those in the EU. 

The biggest difference is the regular Coke – in the US this uses high fructose corn syrup while in Europe cane sugar is used to sweeten the product, resulting in a significant difference in taste. 

READ ALSO: Is Diet Coke really banned in Europe?

You’re much more likely in Italy to come across Coca Zero, the zero-sugar version of Coca-Cola, than Coca-Coca Light, the European version of Diet Coke, which has always been hard to find and which some online sources say Italy stopped distributing altogether in 2022.

Coke in the US: different to its European counterparts. Photo by Cody Engel on Unsplash

You don’t need to tip

Fact – It’s not necessary to tip after a restaurant meal in Italy. However, this is a matter of personal choice and you are free to do so (tipping certainly won’t cause upset).

Diners do often leave some change after a particularly enjoyable meal. In terms of how much to give, some people round up a bill to include a tip, while others give what spare change they have.

READ ALSO: What are the rules on tipping in Italy?

Some people may also opt to tip other professionals as well, such as taxi drivers and cleaners, but again – this is optional and typically not a large quantity. In some apartment buildings, residents may give a Christmas card with money inside to the portiere (doorman) as a kind of annual tip.

All cars are stick shift

Mostly fact – In the United States, stick shift vehicles are becoming a thing of the past, but in Italy they are still very much being bought and driven.

As of 2018, around 20 percent of new cars sold in Italy were automatic – which is much higher than the less-than-one percent sold in the 1980s, but still a lot less than the US’s figure of 96 percent.

That said, around 70 percent of SUVs sold in Italy use automatic transition, so with the popularity of these larger vehicles on the rise, you can expect to see more automatics on Italian roads in the future.

What do you think? Have you noticed any other common beliefs or misconceptions about Italy in the US, or elsewhere? We’d love to hear from you in the comments section below.

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