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‘Culinary terrorism’ – Why French TV viewers are furious about Salade Niçoise recipe

One of France's best-known TV chefs has been forced to backtrack after fury over his attempt to alter the recipe for French classic Salade Niçoise.

'Culinary terrorism' - Why French TV viewers are furious about Salade Niçoise recipe
TV chef Cyril Lignac's Salade Niçoise recipe sparked outrage. Photo: AFP

The TV channel M6 has been deluged with complaints over a recipe for the Mediterranean salad which included potatoes, beans and Parmesan, with some commentators labelling this 'culinary terrorism'.

The row broke out over the return of the TV show Tous en Cuisine  (everyone in the kitchen) presented by Cyril Lignac, a chef best known as a judge on France's version of Bake Off.

READ ALSO Five reasons the Bake Off is better in France than Britain

He began the Tous en Cuisine series during lockdown, where it proved very popular as people cooked along with the show, producing a classic recipe.

There's an episode on Monday and as usual M6 has published a list of ingredients in advance, so people can stock up and get ready to cook with Cyril.

But it was when the ingredients list for the Salade Niçoise was published that it all kicked off – as it included items that are not in the traditional recipe.

After a storm of criticism, with people accusing the chef of “defiling our culture” and “sacrilege” a revised recipe was published, more in line with the historical salad (although it should be pointed out that many people also defended the idea of changes to classic recipes).

 

READ ALSO 'An insult to my country' – horror in France at croissant and cheese faux pas

The subject of salade niçoise composition is an important one in Nice. Photo: AFP

So what is in a Salade Niçoise?

It's one of France's most famous dishes and versions are served around the world, but it's also one that is frequently altered into forms that would have purists foaming at the mouth.

Ingredients that are commonly served in the salad in the rest of the world – such as potatoes and green beans – are not part of the classic recipe and neither is lettuce. 

And even tuna, often thought of as an integral part of the salad, is actually not as common in Nice as anchovies.

It's a divisive subject among chefs and Nice locals – one former mayor of Nice even wrote a book about it – but most people seem to agree that tomatoes, cucumbers and spring onions are included, along with hard-boiled eggs and black olives and some form of fish – either anchovies or tuna.

If tuna is used, it is more usually tinned or in oil, rather than a fresh tuna steak.

That said, there will probably be at least one outraged person telling us we are completely wrong . . .

You can find the revised M6 recipe here.

READ ALSO Rules of raclette: How to make one of France's most popular cheese classics

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FOOD AND DRINK

Cheese in numbers: France’s obsession with fromage

From cheese types to the amount eaten per year, via cheese favourites - here's a look at how France really feels about fromage.

Cheese in numbers: France’s obsession with fromage

March 27th is the Journée nationale du fromage in France – so here are a few facts about the delicious dairy delicacy.

246

Charles de Gaulle famously once asked of governing France: “How can anyone govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?”.

His numbers were wrong. Producers in France make closer to 1,000 varieties of cheese – and some have estimated that figure could be pushed up as high as 1,600.

8

The number of cheese ‘families’ in France. A good cheeseboard in France is generally considered to consist of at least three ‘families’ – a soft cheese, a hard cheese and either a blue or a goat’s cheese. Remember, too, an odd number of fromages on a platter is better than an even number, according from cheese etiquettists

READ ALSO France Facts: There are eight cheese families in France

2.5

About how long – in years – it would take you to try every cheese made in France, if you tried a new variety every day. Life goals. 

95

The percentage of people in France who say they eat cheese at least once a week, spending seven percent of their weekly food bill on it.

READ ALSO Best Briehaviour: Your guide to French cheese etiquette

40

Two-fifths of French people say they eat cheese every day

57

The amount of cheese produced, in kilogrammes, in France every second, according to this website, which has a counter to show you how fast that really is. It’s estimated that 1.8 million tonnes of cheese are produced in France every year.

27

The French consume, on average, a whopping 27 kilogrammes of cheese per person per year.

READ ALSO Fonduegate: Why customer service is different in France

3

The three most popular cheeses in France, based on sales, are Emmental, Camembert, and Raclette – followed by mozzarella, goat’s cheese, Comté and Coulommiers.

63

Some 63 cheeses have been awarded the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée status, which means they can only be produced in a certain region.

1

France has – or at least soon will have – one dedicated cheese museum. 

READ ALSO Three things to know about the new Paris cheese museum

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