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What’s it like travelling in Germany and crossing borders in Covid times?

From long journeys wearing face masks to little social distancing, here's what The Local's Rachel Loxton found during a recent trip through Germany and Austria after travel restrictions were lifted.

What's it like travelling in Germany and crossing borders in Covid times?
Summer in Bavaria - people gather in Landsberg am Lech on Friday. Photo: DPA

At the height of the coronavirus lockdown in Berlin, it was exciting to go to the bakery for a bread roll. Now we’re allowed to travel again for fun (at least in EU countries), there's a lot of new scenery to take in – but also new rules.

We are still adapting to life in the time of coronavirus and there are different restrictions wherever you go – when you cross borders or even in Germany’s 16 federal states.

Adding to that is the possibility of local lockdowns when cases rise. So the first thing to note when travelling is that you should do your research. The Foreign Office provides information on countries but it also advises you to look at the place you are going to so you can familiarise yourself with the rules.

You should also keep an eye on particular regions in case there are different local rules.

Travel restrictions eased

Germany issued a worldwide warning against tourist travel in March. But on June 15th the warning was lifted for EU countries and states (including the UK) and replaced with travel advice. 

Like lots of others, I was eager to leave my Berlin neighbourhood and booked a week in southern Germany and Austria after the travel warning was lifted.

READ ALSO: Which countries are Germany's imported coronavirus cases coming from?

I was heading to Bavaria – the strictest of Germany's states when it comes to coronavirus rules – as well as neighbouring Austria. Plus we were going to pass through the Czech Republic on the way back.

My friend and I checked the government websites for these places (and of course read The Local) before setting off to find out any rules we should be aware of.

So what is it actually like to travel by train in Germany and cross borders? And is it risky?

My trip began in the Hauptbahnhof, or main station, of Berlin where I was armed with my tartan face mask (a must for a Scot) and hand sanitiser for the train to Salzburg in Austria. 

On the high speed train, all adults were wearing face masks although they were being stuck to chins or under noses at times. And I have to admit that I did take my mask off to eat snacks. There were quite a lot of snacks…

But the carriages were not full so it allowed for distance with other people. We sat at a table for four and there was only a part of the journey where two others sat next to us (with masks).

I was quite surprised but Deutsche Bahn has said that it would try to avoid full trains during this time. And perhaps not as many people are travelling at the moment.

Rachel Loxton wearing a face mask on the Deutsche Bahn train. Photo: Rachel Loxton

When we crossed the border to Austria nothing changed: there were no border checks.

From July 27th, however, the Austrian government brought in some new entry regulations so anyone travelling should keep this in mind:

Travellers from the following countries do not need to show a negative Covid-19 test or quarantine: Andorra, Belgium, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Vatican City.

The regulation applies only to people who are residents in the listed countries or Austrian citizens. It is also a prerequisite that you have not been in any country other than Austria or those European countries in the past 10 days.

You do not need to show a test if you are only transiting through Austria without a stopover.

However, people arriving from a high-risk area have to produce a medical certificate proving a negative Covid-19 test, which can be no older than 72-hours.

Those unable to get tested before entering Austria, are required to get tested within 48 hours after arriving, and you have to self-quarantine until your test results arrive.

Meanwhile test stations are also being set up around the Germany-Austrian border at the crossings in Walserberg, Austria, as well as Pocking and Kiefersfelden in Bavaria.

I'd recommend taking proof that you're a resident in Germany when travelling. I took a photo of my Anmeldung (registration document) just in case because as a British person I don't have a residency permit.

Masks at tourist sites

In Salzburg, I noticed most people stuck to the rules of wearing masks on public transport and in shops. During tourist visits, such as to the Hohensalzburg Fortress, we were required to wear masks in indoor spaces like the museums or on the funicular.

Masks weren't worn all the time by restaurant workers, which has been the case from my experience in Germany.

It felt a bit different when we crossed the border into Bavaria. Here, the coronavirus restrictions are markedly tougher.

When we went to a beer garden at the beautiful Königssee near Berchtesgaden, the servers all wore face masks (and Lederhosen which we thought was a brilliant style) and we had to write down our contact details in case of an outbreak.

They also had to be worn on boat trips.

The Königssee in Bavaria. Photo: Rachel Loxton

There have been reports of Germans flooding resorts in the country as people turn to staycations while international travel is still limited.

READ ALSO: Bavarian alps struggle under weight of coronavirus staycationers

However, we found places like the Königssee to not be overly busy, and there were always free seats in restaurants and cafes.

The only time I found it to be uncomfortably full was during the bus ride from Salzburg to Berchtesgaden. Social distancing flew out the window as people packed onto the bus. And as the bus was so hot with no ventilation, there were many noses poking out of face masks as people tried to breathe.

Oh, Vienna!

Next on our trip was the Austrian capital of Vienna. After a picturesque train ride through the mountains with fully masked-up people, we arrived in the main station.

Like in Salzburg, restaurant and bar workers did not always wear face masks but they were worn on public transport and shops as well as supermarkets.

At night lots of young people gathered in some parts of Vienna, for example along the banks of the river Danube and it appeared distancing was the last thing on their minds.

According to official rules masks have to be worn in Austria in these situations:

  • on public transport
  • on cable cars and in indoor areas of ships on lake and river cruises
  • in taxis
  • in health-related contexts (at the doctor's office, at the chemist's/pharmacy, in hospitals etc.)
  • in supermarkets and other food shops/grocery stores, bakeries, post offices, and banks
  • at indoor events (except while sitting in your seat)
  • wherever a minimum distance of on metre is not possible to maintain

Additional safety regulations are being introduced regionally as needed. Currently, stricter rules for wearing a mask are in effect in Upper Austria and parts of Carinthia.

What does the future hold for travel?

On the way back from Vienna while crossing the border into Germany from the Czech Republic, police conducted a passport check on all passengers on our bus.

We all had to leave the bus and hand passports and ID to the officer who took them for a check and they were then given back to us.

Lots of people did not wear a mask on the bus journey – perhaps because it's not monitored as much as trains?

With so many opportunities to be near strangers while travelling or moving around cities, it's easy to see why authorities are concerned about the virus spreading through the opening of travel.

In future, as worries grow over a new wave of Covid-19, I think there will be even more chances to get tested, not just at airports.

Of course there are always risks but all you can do is follow the rules and wash your hands as much as possible. I had my own santiser but I would have preferred if there were some more opportunities to disinfect hands in shops and public places.

Yet it was such a joy to be out of Berlin, and even in another country. Going on a short holiday would have been nothing spectacular last year but in corona times it felt momentous.

Have you travelled in Germany or outside Germany during the pandemic? Let us know what it was like and we may include it in a future article. Email [email protected]

 

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TRAVEL

Ten unforgettable places to stay in Austria

Talk about a land of contrasts: Between alpine chalets, imposing fortress and, well, sewage pipes, there’s no shortage of unusual and unforgettable plays to stay in Austria.

Ten unforgettable places to stay in Austria

Here are ten of the most spectacular, historic, unique or just plain weird places to stay on an Austrian getaway. 

Steirisch Ursprung Erlebnishotel – Relive the good old days

Eggersdorf by Graz, Styria

Let’s start our list by taking one giant step back… in time. The Erlebnishotel’ Steirisch Ursprung‘ (Styrian Origin Experience Hotel) has been designed to celebrate Styrian culture, folk art and cuisine of the 19th century, with rooms themed those of a typical farmer, as well as a wedding suite…

…and an ‘erotic room’ full of spicy paintings and carvings for those seeking a romantic getaway.

If you fancy a drop, you’re lucky – the hotel has its own brewery and pub, where you can sample the local beer in two-hundred-year-old surroundings. 

Hotel Schafbergspitze – Spectacular views from Austria’s first mountain hotel

St Wolfgang in Salzkammergut, Upper Austria

If you love a good view – and have no fear of heights – the Hotel Schafbergspitze is your destination. 

Austria’s first mountain hotel was opened in 1864, with guests travelling to the hotel by a cog railway that climbs around 1190 metres over almost six kilometres. 

The hotel features 17 rooms and a restaurant serving hearty local cuisine, which you can walk off exploring the Schafbergspitze’s summit, with stunning vistas in every direction. 

Dasparkhotel – Stay in a sewage pipe, anyone?

Ottensheim, Upper Austria

You may not want to gaze across the Alps from your double bed. You may want to stay in a sewer pipe instead. Fortunately, Austria’s dasparkhotel covers you, in the charming market town of Ottensheim, near Linz. 

Three stylishly appointed cabins have been constructed from repurposed sewer pipe, with comfy bedding, electrical outlets and storage space. 

Doesn’t sound very appealing? How about this – staying at dasparkhotel is free, although donations are welcome. 

Hotel Schloss Matzen – Live the high life

Reith im Alpbachtal, Tyrol

The hill on which Hotel Schloss Matzen sits has been desirable real estate since Roman times when it was a fort defending trade routes through the region. Since the castle was built in the 12th century, it’s passed through the hands of some of Austria’s oldest and most renowned families – each who left a mark as stewards of the region. 

Since 2007, it has been home to a gorgeous luxury hotel, where each room evokes past grandeur within the eight-hundred-year-old structure. 

It’s a common location for weddings, with the castle’s beautiful gardens and striking silhouette as a gorgeous backdrop for photos. 

Hotel Burg Bernstein – Red knights, white ladies and stunning vintages

Bernstein, Burgenland

We continue the castle theme with Hotel Burg Bernstein, once a fortress protecting Austria’s eastern borders. Consequently, it has a long and bloody history. 

Somewhat unsurprisingly, the castle has a reputation for being haunted by not one but two resident ghosts: ‘Red Ivan’, a furious 13th-century knight who has a habit of appearing to children, and the ‘White Lady of Bernstein’, a veiled figure who may be a 15th-century murder victim.

If that’s not your thing, be of good cheer: The castle also offers wine courses showcasing the region’s vintages. 

Historical tours are also available that explore the lives of previous tenants, including Lazlo Almasy – the explorer whose exploits helped inspire the novel and film, ‘The English Patient’.  

Hotel Rogner Bad Blumau – Soak in the surroundings

Bad Blumau, Styria

Looking like a technicolour Hobbiton, the Hotel Rogner Bad Blumau was designed by famed Austrian architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser in the nineties to take advantage of the thermal springs discovered on the site twenty years prior. 

When you’re done soaking and admiring the lively design of the place and eating extraordinarily well in the restaurant, there’s a ‘geomantic’ path designed by artist Marko Pogacnik to balance your energy levels. 

Gästehaus Benediktinerstift Göttweig – Simple pleasures in a House of God 

Furth bei Göttweig, Lower Austria

You may want to nourish your soul in more holy surroundings. 

Gottweig Abbey has been looking over the town of Furth bei Göttweig for over a thousand years. 

Reaching a golden age in the 18th century, the abbey is an artistic treasure house, with plenty to explore throughout its buildings and grounds. 

As is the trend with many monasteries, Benediktinerstift Gottweig has opened its doors to visitors seeking a little solace, with simple, but comfortable rooms and a restaurant with regional dishes based on local produce. 

Iglu-Dorf Innsbruck Kühtai

Kühtai, Tyrol

One of four ‘igloo village’ hotels across the DACH region, Iglu-Dorf Kühtai offers several lodgings for couples, families and groups. Cool temperatures and warm blankets make for a great night’s sleep; many of the igloos are far more spacious than you’d think.

Outside the igloos, there’s a bar, winter sports close by and frequent events to keep you entertained during your snowy excursion. 

Hotel Sacher – An Austrian Icon

Vienna

You knew we’d need to mention the Hotel Sacher to get through this list. 

The Vienna icon first opened its doors in 1876 by restauranteur Eduard Sacher. 

While he – and the hotel – are known for the world-famous Sachertorte he created, we can’t forget Anna Sacher, Eduard’s widow, who single-handedly transformed the hotel with her iron will and charisma into the Vienna stalwart it is today.

Today, run by the equally impressive Gürtler family, it’s Vienna’s only privately-owned luxury hotel. While the restaurant is a giant tourist magnet, the luxurious rooms with their belle epoque style are a more exclusive highlight. 

Honey Farm – Bzz Bzz

Himmelberg, Carinthia

We end with simple pleasures – and a little natural sweetness. 

For several years, Arno Kronhofer and his family have opened their farm at Himmelberg in the country’s south to visitors, where guests can watch and experience raising bees, harvesting honey, and enjoy a country vacation!

In tribute, many of the rooms in the renovated barn feature designs inspired by beehives, with wood, linen and honey-coloured accents filling rooms with golden light.

Have any recommendations for unusual or unforgettable hotel stays in Austria? Let us know in the comments! 

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