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Escape into nature: a forager’s guide to discovering the forest

Escaping urban life is far easier in Sweden than many countries. The forests, meadows and lakes can seem neverending – plus the ancient rural code known as allemansrätten gives you the right to roam.

Escape into nature: a forager’s guide to discovering the forest
Photo: Elle Nikishkova/Elles Utemat

With the continuing restrictions on social contact, who hasn’t dreamed of getting away from it all and reconnecting with nature? Uppsala, one of Sweden’s most historic cities can be reached from Stockholm in just over 30 minutes, and offers so much more than just a city break.

We spoke to forager, outdoor chef, and food blogger Elle Nikishkova about some of the best places to explore around Uppsala. She shared tips on the joys of discovering the forest through everything from kayaking to mushroom-picking.

Freedom to explore

In Sweden, everyone is invited to explore the country’s natural beauty under the allemansrätten or public right of access. Your freedom to roam applies whether you want to take a hike, a long rural bike ride, a mountain trek – or even pitch a tent for a night under the stars.

Learn more about the sights and experiences on offer in and around Uppsala

You also have a broad right to pick and enjoy flowers, berries and mushrooms. But take note of some exceptions: nothing can be picked in national parks or nature reserves; and some protected species – including all orchids – should never be picked anywhere.

Elle runs courses teaching foraging and outdoor cooking over a fire through her small company Elles Utemat. Her recipes blend organic local ingredients with things picked in the woods.

“Depending on the season we pick different things,” she says. “Now is good for nettles, ground elder, edible flowers, and rowan leaves. 

“On courses, we take different things into our baskets and learn about what’s edible in the forest right now. We can make amazing flower teas or nettle soup with violets.

“In Uppsala and further south you can find more edible things than in the north. In the north, you have spruce, pine and birch trees but here you get all these amazing fruit trees and flowers on the tree that start blooming and you can try them as well.”

Nature awakens

Elle spent her early years in a city in Ukraine and says her passion for nature began after moving to Sweden aged 10. Living “in the middle of the woods” in Umeå, she would explore the forest with her mother and pick mushrooms.

Spring and the months ahead offer a fantastic opportunity to experience and learn about nature.

“Nature is waking up right now,” says Elle. “Beautiful flowers come out in huge numbers around Uppsala; white, blue and yellow flowers. The cherry trees are starting to bloom. In the north, only a few bloom but here you have many and the air fills with these amazing scents.”

Get your guide to nature and outdoor recreation in the Uppsala area

One of her favourite places is Norra Lunsen, a nature reserve south of Uppsala. The area offers many walking trails, which can also be used for mountain biking, and horse-riding trails. In winter, you can go cross-country skiing.

“There’s also a cabin where you can stay,” says Elle. “You can walk there from Uppsala, it’s about 5km to 10km, and there are six beds, a fireplace, fire wood and a water pump.”

She also recommends kayaking and canoeing trips from Uppsala along the Fyris river. Options include going south to Ekoln, the northernmost gulf of Lake Mälaren, or an upstream trip to nearby Ulva Kvarn.

Photo: Aktivt Uteliv.

“When the trees are getting greener, it feels almost exotic,” adds Elle. “It’s almost like when I went paddling in Guatemala. Things look so different from the kayak on the water than when you are walking alongside the river.”

Marvellous mushrooms 

The mushroom season has started – but the best of it lies ahead. Elle is on something of a mission to teach people in Sweden about the wide variety of edible fungi in the country. So great is her love of mushrooms that she is soon due to launch a book about 20 edible species, packed with recipes and interesting facts.

“My Mum is Russian and in Russia, mushrooms have been an important meat substitute during famine or war,” she says. “In Sweden, people generally know two types and walk straight past all these amazing varieties.”

A century ago, she says many Swedes thought mushrooms were “connected to the devil”. Interest is now growing, she adds. But given the dangers, inexperienced foragers should proceed with extreme caution and learn first from experts.

Photo: Elle Nikishkova/Elles Utemat

“The first edible mushroom I pick is usually late May or early June,” she says. “The earliest chanterelles come around midsummer and then boletes. Each month brings new things.

“But you need to know exactly what you’re picking. It’s best to go with someone you can ask questions. I learned from people who tell stories that help you remember different flowers or mushrooms and I always look to give people narratives too.”

Her mushroom-picking courses offer rich rewards. Two hours of foraging may yield 10 to 15 edible species. And you can spend the next two hours frying them and savouring their complexities.

“People get quite amazed by the differences in flavour and texture,” she says. “They’ll say one is like popcorn or remember one that tastes like seafood. If you’re vegetarian and want to spice up your diet, mushrooms are a great way to do that and reduce your intake of imported foods.”

Find out more about visiting Uppsala and the surrounding area when the time is right, including the latest information on events and attractions in the area. 

 
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MALMÖ

How Eurovision visitors can make the most of Malmö

Malmö is not a particularly touristy city and it's easy to miss out on the best things the city has to offer if you don't know where to look. Here's The Local's guide to Sweden’s third largest city.

How Eurovision visitors can make the most of Malmö

How do I get around?

Cycling is by far the easiest way to get around Malmö, and cycling around the city on a sunny day is a great way to get to know the city. Malmö is very flat and with over 500 kilometres of bike paths criss-crossing the city, you’re often able to get to your destination faster by bike than by car or public transport.

If you’ve booked a hotel, you might be able to borrow a bike from the lobby, otherwise you can rent one from the city’s Malmö by Bike service – it costs 80 kronor for 24 hours, 165 kronor for 72 hours or 250 kronor for a full year.

Coming over from Copenhagen? You can even buy a bike ticket and bring it over with you on the train.

Can’t cycle or just don’t fancy it? Local transport company Skånetrafiken is launching a special eight day ticket for May 5th-12th, costing 350 kronor for all of Skåne (the region Malmö is in) or 700 kronor for Skåne and Copenhagen, and that will cover buses and trains. That will be available on their Skånetrafiken app (Google Play or Apple) from April 15th to May 12th. 

You can also buy single bus or train tickets within Malmö for 31 kronor in the app, online or by tapping your payment card on the city’s buses. Two people travelling together get a 25 percent discount if you buy in the app, online or from a ticket machine.

What is there to see and do in Malmö? 

Coming to Malmö as a tourist, it’s easy to be underwhelmed, especially if you don’t stray from the main shopping street.

It’s a small city, relatively speaking, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. 

In terms of tourist sights, there are a few museums. Malmö Museum is southern Sweden’s largest museum, although it’s technically three museums in one: Malmöhus castle, which was built back when Skåne was part of Denmark, the Malmö Konstmuseum art museum, and the technology and maritime museum Teknikens- och sjöfartens hus.

Tickets are also relatively cheap: 100 kronor for adults if you want to visit all three museums, or 60 kronor if you only want to visit one (the castle and art museum are in the same building, so a single 60 kronor ticket grants you access to both). Under-19s go free.

Malmö is also home to art gallery Malmö Konsthall, which has free entry, as well as an interactive workshop with activities for kids. The gallery is also home to restaurant Smak, which offers modern New Nordic-style lunches for around 160 kronor. Don’t get this confused with Moderna Museet, the city’s modern art gallery. This is also worth a visit, but be aware that you’ll have to buy a ticket – although having said that they’re only 50 kronor for adults. They also have a café which serves Danish-style smørrebrød.

There will also be an Abba museum in the city from April 29th to May 13th in the run-up to Eurovision, where fans can celebrate the 50 year anniversary of the band winning the contest with Waterloo. 

What about food?

The best thing to do in Malmö, however, is to just eat your way around the city. There are people from over 177 different nationalities living in Malmö, which is reflected in the food scene. 

Fancy authentic Sichuan food? Try Kina Restaurang Sichuan on Amiralsgatan (order off the Sichuan section of their á la carte menu). Ethiopian or Eritrean food? Zula or Enjera on Ystadsgatan. British pies? Marvin near Davidshall. You get the picture – just go for a wander around the Möllevången neighbourhood (head east from Triangeln station) and you should find somewhere good and reasonably priced. 

There are also more upmarket restaurants in Malmö if that’s more what you fancy – there are some suggestions in this article.

Looking for somewhere to go for a drink? Here’s a list of some budget-friendly bars, and here are a few craft beer spots (which have pretty good food, too). The city’s also home to some great wine bars (Julie and Freja are two suggestions) and cocktail bars, like BISe and care/of, both close to the central station. We even have great coffee – Lilla Kafferosteriet and Solde both roast their own beans.

You don’t have to go far to find interesting neighbourhoods in Malmö, just venture slightly outside the centre, away from Lilla Torg and the main shopping streets, Södergatan and Södra Förstadsgatan. Try Davidshall for good food and interesting shops, Möllevången (also known as Möllan) for bars, restaurants and nightlife, or why not head down to the beach at Ribersborg?

If you’re coming to the city specifically for Eurovision, here’s a guide with everything you need to know about visiting Malmö for your trip.

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