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CHRISTMAS

Why Spain loves the Three Kings more than Santa

Christmas is not over in Spain yet. Even though Christmas Day is celebrated across the country, Spaniards still tend to go 'all in' on January 6th with the arrival of 'los Reyes' (the Three Wise Men). Sorry Santa!

Why Spain loves the Three Kings more than Santa
Spaniards associate 'Spanish Christmas' with The Three Kings. Photo: Cristina Quicler/AFP

The Feast of Epiphany on January 6th is traditionally Spain’s main festive holiday, when children receive their presents brought not by Santa Claus, but by the Three Kings.

On El Día de Reyes Spain and Latin American countries celebrate the biblical adoration of baby Jesus by the Three Kings, also known as the Three Wise Men or Magi. 

Kings are cooler than Santa 

In a 2015 survey, Spanish children overwhelmingly chose the Three Kings as their favourite gift giver (67 percent) over Santa Claus (27 percent). Perhaps the fact that Spanish kids tend to get the bulk of their Christmas presents for Reyes has something to do with it. 

In Spain Los Reyes Magos – Melchior, Caspar and Balthazar – play a similar role to Santa Claus in many other parts of the world.

Spanish children write letters to the Three Kings, or Three Wise Men, who then bring the children gifts the night before, or on the morning of the Epiphany, January 6th.

In some houses children leave their shoes outside the door so that the Three Kings will fill them with gifts, often leaving bigger presents alongside.

Just as children in many other places leave out some food and drink for Santa, and a carrot for Rudolph, Spanish children make sure to leave a drink for each of the Three Kings and some food and drink for their camels – as this is the only night of the year when the animals eat and drink. 

Spanish kids get the majority of their Christmas presents on ‘Reyes’.(Photo by CESAR MANSO / AFP)
 

Three Kings Parades 

Huge Three Kings parades or cabalgatas are held around Spain on January 5th.

They are usually enormous spectacles featuring hundreds of actors and are broadcast live on Spanish television. 

Every city and sizeable town usually stages a parade.

Depending on the location, the three kings may traditionally arrive by boat (Barcelona), hot air balloon (Seville), helicopter (Tenerife) or another means of transport, apart from their trusted camels. 

There’s a great family atmosphere at Three Wise Men’s parade across Spain. Photo: Gabriel Bouys/AFP

Umbrellas can come in handy

Even if the skies are clear and there is no forecast for rain, you will see children brandishing umbrellas as they line the parade route.

The reason becomes clear as the Kings approach and the umbrellas are opened and turned upside down becoming the ideal receptacle for catching the handful of candies thrown into the crowds.

Keep an eye out for all the flying sweets. (Photo by JOSE LUIS ROCA / AFP)
 

Controversy 

The roles of the Three Kings in the famous parades have traditionally been played by city councillors. Because most are white, Balthazar has usually been played by a “blacked-up” white man, which has often been branded as racist by critics. 

In 2016, for the first time ever, Madrid’s left-wing council called time on the controversial tradition, promising to employ a black actor for the part “to reflect the integration and diversity that increasingly characterizes Madrid’s community”.

Likewise in Barcelona, Balthazar is played by a black actor and is also accompanied by an entourage of black drummers and dancers. 

Some town councils have chosen to replace a King in the parade with a Queen all in the spirit of equality, however this has caused outrage amongst traditionalists.

As Spaniards continue to analyse their deep-seated traditions that seem out of touch with the modern world, the ‘blacking up’ during Reyes is increasingly considered offensive and that it perpetuates racist stereotypes.

The oldest Three Kings parade in Spain, which has taken place in Alcoy (Alicante) since 1885, also includes dozens of children who controversially ‘black up’ to represent pajes negros who deliver the presents on behalf of the Kings (see picture above). 

A ‘blacked up’ white man dressed as King Balthazar during a cabalgata. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP)
 

Roscón de Reyes 

On January 6th, Spaniards typically tuck into a Roscón de Reyes, a Three Kings cake baked in a ring and decorated with candied fruit and hiding a, sometimes lucrative, surprise.

A small figurine of the baby Jesus, or a little toy for children, is typically hidden inside the dough, as is a dry fava bean. Whoever finds the toy is crowned king or queen of the celebration, while the one who finds the bean has to buy the Roscón next year.

Each year El Corte Inglés hides gold ingots inside some of its Roscón cakes sold from its stores across Spain – which would be a sweet surprise for someone to find in their slice on January 6th. 


Photo: El Coleccionista de Instantes Fotografía & Video/Flickr 

Spanish Kings?

Might the three Kings originally have come from Andalusia? The last Pope thought so.

In his 2012 book Jesus of Nazareth: The Infancy Narratives, Pope Benedict XVI claimed the gift-bearing trio came from Tarsis – or Tartessosa – a kingdom that historians place somewhere between the provinces of Huelva, Cadiz and Sevilla.

Melchior, Caspar and Balthazar depicted in a moasic in the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna, Italy: Photo: Nina-no/Wikimedia
 

Another lottery

For those who didn’t become rich with El Gordo – the Christmas lottery drawn in Spain  – there is a second chance with El Niño, the January 6th draw that offers an estimated prize pool that goes into the hundreds of millions.

Extended holidays

The very best thing about the Three Kings – apart from the presents, the parade and the cake – is that Spaniards are guaranteed another day off work and children don’t go back to school until after Epiphany. 

While in other countries, Christmas decorations may have been packed away and normal working life resumed, in Spain the holiday spirit continues until January 6th.

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DISCOVER SPAIN

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez’s Feria del Caballo

The swish of a flamenco skirt, the soft beat of hooves drumming on the roads and the smell of sweet sherry, these are the senses you'll experience at Jerez de la Frontera’s Feria del Caballo in May, a worthy alternative to Seville's busy April Fair.

Flamenco, horses and sherry: Jerez's Feria del Caballo

There’s nothing quite so Andalusian as attending a local feria or festival, comprising all the elements you’d expect from this quintessential area of Spain – flamenco, horses and lots of food and drink.

While the most famous feria is Seville’s Feria de Abril, it may not actually be the best place to experience your first one. This is primarily because in Seville, visitors are not allowed to enter many of the so-called casetas (tents or marquees) where the main events such as music and dancing take place.

These are reserved for private companies or are by invitation only. By visiting the Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera instead, you’ll be able to enter almost all the casetas for free and not have to worry about jostling for space with so many other tourists, as it’s mainly locals who attend.

Horses wait in the shade at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

Jerez lies approximately 90km south of Seville and is renowned throughout the country for three things – horses, flamenco and sherry. It forms one point of the famed Sherry Triangle, where the majority of Spain’s sherry or jerez is produced and is also home to the prestigious Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art). This is where some of Spain’s most talented horses perform and dance with their riders.

READ ALSO: The surprising connection between Spanish sherry and the British and Irish

While the town also holds a sherry festival and a flamenco festival, the Feria del Caballo is where all three elements are brought together.

This year the Feria del Caballo takes place from May 4th to the 11th, 2024. Like previous years the main fair will take place in the Parque González Hontoria, just north of the city centre.

Traditional trajes de flamenco in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox
 

During the day time, there are several dressage competitions taking place, then as late afternoon and evening draws near, the whole town heads to the fairground for an evening of partying and drinking.

Everyone dons their traditional trajes de flamenco or flamenco costumes, and horse-drawn carriages take revellers for rides along the dusty streets, lined with casetas, decorations and barrels of sherry.

By night the whole fairground is aglow with twinkly multicoloured lights. Flamenco music blares from each caseta and everyone shows off their Sevillanas moves. Sevillanas is a traditional folk dance from the region of Seville, which could be mistaken for flamenco to the untrained eye.

Jerez’s Feria del Caballo by night. Photo: Esme Fox

The order of the day is a rebujito, the feria’s classic tipple which is a mixture of sherry and lemonade. It might not sound great, but it can get quite addictive.

Next to the park, which has been turned into a mini festival city within itself is a traditional funfair complete with rides such as twirling tea cups and bumper cars, as well as games from coconut shys to fishing for plastic ducks and mock shooting ranges.

Dressage competition at the Feria del Caballo in Jerez. Photo: Esme Fox

The history of the Feria del Caballo goes back over 500 years. In 1264 Alfonso X granted the town two annual duty-free fairs, one in April and the other in September/October. By the Middle Ages, this turned into commercial livestock fairs that took place around the same months. 

However, it wasn’t until 1955 when the Domecq Sherry family came up with the idea of a festival focused on the city’s connections with horses.

Today, Jerez de la Frontera offers one of the best places to experience a typical Andalusian feria

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