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LANGUAGE AND CULTURE

The A-Z of dining in France

Food etiquette breaches such as eating a croissant with cutlery or tackling the cheeseboard incorrectly can spark a strong reaction in France.

The A-Z of dining in France
Going out for a meal in France? Here is what you need to know. All photos: AFP

In one of the more light-hearted moments of recent years, one French woman said she was “close to fainting” when she saw pictures of what tourists had done to French cheese. So to avoid making Frenchwomen faint, here’s the A-Z of eating in France.

A is for andouillette – In a country famed (rightly) for its cuisine, the andouillette forms something of a low point. A type of sausage made from animal intestine. Some people love it though, and claim it doesn’t taste as bad as it smells (which is of animal bowels and urine).

Reader reveal: The worst food in France

B is for beer – although France is of course synonymous with wine, beer is rapidly becoming the drink of choice, especially among younger people. There is a booming craft beer scene in France and une pinte (a pint, rather than the traditional French serving of un demi – 250cl)) is becoming more common, especially in the cities. Beer is not traditionally drunk with food, although this is becoming less of a hard-and-fast rule.

C is for cheese – of course. Served before dessert in France, rather than after, there are plenty of strict rules around cheese, from the etiquette of the cheese course to what type of cheese is permitted in a fondue.

READ ALSO Best briehaviour: A guide to French cheese etiquette

D is for déjeuner – lunch time is rather more strictly observed in France, especially in smaller towns. Many places only serve lunch between 12 and 2, so if you’re looking for a late lunch you may be disappointed. Any café or bar that has a sign saying service non-stop, means it serves food throughout the day.

E is for elbows – keep them off the table. French children are raised to keep their hands on the table, and elbows on the table are considered impolite. If you are dining in a city café there is likely to be quite limited space, so once you’ve shimmied past the other diners to your table, make sure you keep your elbows in to avoid hitting your neighbour. 

READ ALSO Terraces to tipping: The etiquette for visiting a French café

F is for foie gras – considered a bit controversial by many Anglos because of the production method which involved force-feeding geese, it is nonetheless widely served in France, especially in the south west Périgord area when something is barely considered a meal unless there’s a slab of foie gras on it. The ethical considerations are of course a personal choice, but it is delicious. Just don’t try and spread it like paté, its supposed to be served as a slice on top of some toast.

G is for grenouilles – considered a mainstay of French culture by ‘les Anglos’ in fact frogs legs are not a common sight on French menus at all. They are a north eastern French thing, so you’ll virtually never see them in the south, but if you’re a fan the town of Vittel has a festival of frogs legs every year. Due to a hunting ban in France, the vast majority of frog served in the country is actually imported from Indonesia.

Reader question: Do the French really eat frogs, snails and horses?

H is for haché – if you see ‘steak haché’ on the menu, don’t expect a slab of meat. This is actually a burger and in restaurants other than McDonald’s you’ll generally be asked how you want it cooked. They’re much nicer when they’re still pink in the middle.

I is for ice – if you want ice in your drink your need to ask for it. Unlike in the USA, where it’s the norm for soft drinks to be served with ice, French waiters will not add ice to your Orangina unless you ask for it avec glaçons.

J is for les jeunes – Children are welcomed in pretty much all restaurants in France and French families consider it perfectly normal to take their children with them when they go out to dinner. They will be expected to sit up at the table though, French restaurants don’t go in for kids play areas or having children running around the restaurant.

K is for ketchup – it goes with frites and frites only in France. Ask for ketchup with your steak, omelette or salmon and expect appalled looks.

L is for lawyer – Hopefully you won’t need any of these to go out for dinner, but ‘salad of lawyer’ is a common mistranslation on English menus in France. This is because the French word for lawyer and avocado is the same – avocat.

READ ALSO ‘Scum of garlic’ When English translations of French menus go wrong

M is for meat – French cuisine has a reputation as being meat heavy and certainly a lot of the traditional dishes are centred around meat, but the offering for vegetarians and vegans is slowly improving, especially in the big cities. Just make it clear that you don’t eat meat at all, as some French people use ‘vegetarian’ to describe someone who doesn’t eat red meat but will have chicken or pork.

‘Call the restaurant’ – tips for vegetarians in France

N is for noisettes – the French for nuts – as in tarte aux noisettes – and also a type of coffee. If you like an espresso with a dash of hot milk, this is what to order.

O is for offal – Many classic French dishes revolve around offal and it can be surprisingly delicious. From salade de gésiers (a salad topped with slow-cooked duck and goose innards) to the various different types of tripes (cow’s stomach) on offer at French markets, they’re all nicer than they sound and we would recommend trying them.

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P is for pichet – If you just ask for d’eau in a French restaurant you will probably be brought mineral water, which can be pricier than wine. If you’re happy with a jug of tap water to go with your dinner, ask for un pichet d’eau or une carafe d’eau. Wine can also be bought by the pichet if you want more than a glass but less than a bottle.

Q is for queuing – some restaurants you have to queue for, and some are worth the wait. Several of Paris’ traditional bouillon restaurants do not take reservations, but in our opinion are worth the wait for very traditional French cuisine that’s also extremely reasonably priced.

READ ALSO The French dining trend that’s delicious, traditional and cheap

R is for raclette – Although the Swiss claim they invented this (and to be fair they almost certainly did) it’s very popular in France in the winter, especially in the mountainous areas in the east. Winter in France in generally brings forth several delicious ways to melt cheese for dinner from raclette to fondue to tartiflette.

S is for steak – it’s not quite true that French chefs refuse to cook steaks ‘well done’ but it won’t make you many friends. Meat in general is served pinker than many Anglos are used to, something to bear in mind when you are ordering.

How to order the perfect steak in France

T is for tea – one for the Brits, unless you specify carefully what you want when ordering tea you are unlikely to be brought a powerful builder’s brew with milk. Tea is often served with lemon in France, so you need to specify thé au lait if you want milk. More common in France is une tisane which is a herbal or fruit tea.

W is for wine – whole books have been written on this, but suffice to say it’s the traditional choice to go with food and also an apéro if you’re talking rosé or white. Don’t hurl it back, in France wine is something to be sipped, tasted and enjoyed.

Fact or fiction: 11 rules about French wine (and a couple of myths)

Z is for za’atar – spices generally, including the Middle-Eastern spice blend za’atar, are not a big part of French cooking. Even if you go to an Indian or Chinese restaurant you are likely to find the spice count has been dialled down to account for the rather delicate French palates. If you want a really hot curry you’d probably be better off making your own. (OK, we admit it, we were struggling to think of a French dish that begins with a Z).

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For members

SCHOOLS

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

School children in France are entitled to a lunchtime meal of three, or even four courses – but what if you prefer to provide meals yourself? 

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

French school meals are, famously, pretty good – children get a three or even four-course meal of properly prepared dishes and the menu (including cheese course) is usually published in the local town newsletter so everyone can see the types of meals being served.

The concept of a proper meal at lunchtime is an important one. “The diet of a school-age child is essential for their growth, mental development and learning abilities,” the French Education Ministry says in a preamble about school meals on its website. “It must be balanced, varied and distributed throughout the day: for example 20 percent of total energy in the morning, 40 percent at midday, 10 percent at four o’clock and 30 percent in the evening.”

And it’s not all about nutrition, the social aspect of sitting together and eating a meal is also important – the ministry continues: “Mealtime is an opportunity for students to relax and communicate. It should also be a time for discovery and enjoyment.”

All schools provide meals in a canteen and most pupils take up the opportunity – however it’s also possible for pupils to go home at lunchtime so that they can eat lunch with their parents.

The idea of taking in a packed lunch (panier-repas) is much less common in France – but is it actually banned?

The rules on lunch

At écoles (up to age 11), the local authority or établissement public de coopération intercommunale (EPCI) is responsible for providing quality school meals. This generally involves meals being provided via a central kitchen, and then delivered to the school’s kitchen, where it can be kept warm, or reheated as necessary.

The system is slightly different in collèges and lycées (attended by children aged 11 and up). In those establishments, catering falls into the purview of the wider département or region – and is routinely managed directly by individual establishments, which will have catering staff on site to prepare meals. Often, meal services are outsourced to private businesses, which operate the kitchens.

There are various rules and regulations in place regarding what food is offered, and how long a child has to eat – which is, in part, why the school lunch period is so long. Children must be allowed a 30-minute period to eat their meal, from the moment they sit down with it at the table. 

Then, they’re given time to play and relax before afternoon classes start.

READ ALSO What you need to know if your child is starting school in France

At a minimum lunch must include a main course with a side dish, a dairy-based product, as well as a starter and/or a dessert. Meals must also, the government says, be composed of 50 percent sustainable quality products (including 20 percent organic).

Some local authorities go further and serve only or mostly food that is organic, locally sourced or both.

Water and bread must be freely available, but salt and condiments can only be added in preparation – no sauce bottles or salt and pepper on the tables. 

Daily menus are generally available to view on school websites and many town newspapers or newsletters also publish them.

Parents pay a fee for the school lunch, which is calculated according to income and can be free in the case of low-income families.

Packed lunch

But what if your child doesn’t like the school lunches and you don’t have time to pick them up, cook a full lunch and take them back in the afternoon everyday? The obvious solution would seem to be to send them in with a packed lunch, as is common in the UK and USA.

In theory this is possible, but only in certain circumstances and with very strict rules and caveats. 

The Ministry, in a written response to a Senator’s question in 2019, said: “The use of packed lunches [home-supplied meals] by primary school students can provide an alternative to school meals. This method of catering is authorised in particular for children with a medically established food allergy or intolerance, requiring an adapted diet.”

READ ALSO How to enrol a non-French speaking child in school in France

It added: “the preparation and use of packed lunches in schools must follow certain rules. First of all, it is important to respect the cold chain”.

The cold chain is a term applied to food handling and distribution – it’s usually used by food-preparation businesses, but in the context of a packed lunch it means that food prepared at home must be kept in appropriately cool conditions until it is ready to eat. It would be the responsibility of parents to ensure that the food is delivered to school in containers appropriate for the job (ie an insulated cool bag).

Once at the school, it is up to whoever manages the kitchen to ensure that food is properly reheated. This becomes the sticking point at which many parents’ requests to send their children to school with a packed lunch, rather than go to the canteen, or eat back at home, are refused.

The reheating concern suggests that schools are also expecting parents to prepare a proper meal – rather than just throwing some sandwiches and a cereal bar into a bag.

Unless there’s a genuine and proven health reason for your child to eat a home-prepared meal, most parents will probably find the school won’t budge on this – even in cases of a strike by kitchen staff or lunch monitors.

READ ALSO Just how much do private schools in France cost?

The Ministry’s written response explains: “[A]s this is an optional public service, the municipality can justify its refusal to admit the children concerned by objective material and financial constraints, such as the need to equip itself with additional refrigerators, or for additional supervisory staff to supervise them during lunch.”

As well as the practicalities, for some schools this is an equality issue – because of the varied fee structure for school lunches what happens in effect is that richer parents are subsidising a good quality lunchtime meal for poorer students in the class; if everyone brought in a packed lunch and therefore stopped paying the fee, the lower-income kids would miss out. 

What about allergies or other health issues?

Children with allergies or other health issues that require a particular diet must be accommodated. An individual meal plan – known as a projet d’accueil individualisé (PAI) can be set up. More details (in French) are available here, on the government’s website.

It also becomes easier for parents to provide home-produced meals in such instances. As ever, it is up to the parents to ensure any meals are appropriately packaged and transported to school.

Not all schools

Some individual schools in France do permit pupils to bring in meals from home. They must be taken to school in an appropriate cold-storage container, and they will be stored in the kitchen area until they are needed, when meals will – if necessary – be reheated.

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