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FOOD AND DRINK

Why Sweden used to stockpile coffee in case of crisis

It's no secret that Swedes love their caffeine. They drink more coffee than almost any other nationality and have a booming cafe industry. But did you know there used to be secret stockpiles of the stuff?

Why Sweden used to stockpile coffee in case of crisis
How soon would Sweden stop functioning without a morning cup of coffee? Photo: Henrik Montgomery/Scanpix

Believe it or not, up until the 1990s, Swedes went as far as stockpiling coffee in huge warehouses, so that even in the event of an unforeseen crisis, no person in Sweden would need to forego fika

Even though the country hadn’t been at war for over 200 years, authorities did their best to ensure that processes are in place to help things run smoothly in the event of an emergency, whether war or a natural disaster. 

And experience from the Second World War, when rations were imposed on many foodstuffs including coffee, showed that keeping the population caffeinated would be a good starting point if the government wanted to keep morale high.

Coffee rationing began in 1940, the first to be introduced, and stayed in place longer than any other food ration in Sweden, until 1951. So up until the 1990s, around 200 food warehouses for times of crisis stored long-lasting foodstuffs such as beans, pulses, rice and sugar.

One warehouse in Lenhovda, Småland, housed 330 tonnes of coffee – enough to brew 100 million cups, should the need arise. It was shut down in 2001, along with most similar storage spots, after the Cold War ended.

These days, the food stored in supermarket warehouses should be sufficient to sustain the country for between one and two weeks. That’s quite a difference from neighbouring Finland, where enough food is stockpiled to keep people going for several months.

But after increasing concern about a future risk of war, this could be changing. An inquiry submitted to the government in February 2024 proposed rebuilding Sweden’s food stores so that essential foods like bread, pasta and oatmeal could be produced at short notice.

Historically, Sweden has had a troubled relationship with coffee, which at several points in history was banned due to fears of its impact on health.

In fact, in the 18th century some economists argued that the drink was even harmful to the economy, and indulging was “immorally wasteful”. Naturally, the population didn’t take this lying down, but continued to risk prison sentences by drinking the warming beverage. 

Coffee may be no longer officially stockpiled, but it is one of the items that the Swedish Civil Contingencies Agency (MSB) advises individuals to keep as part of their own emergency preparedness kits.

Sweden isn’t the only country that took such measures. Switzerland also stockpiled coffee for decades until the practice was abolished only in 2019, after the government decreed the beverage was “not essential for human life”.

We’ll agree to disagree on that point.

This article was originally published as part of The Local’s Advent Calendar series in 2019.

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MALMÖ

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Malmö in southern Sweden may be more well known for cheap falafel than upmarket wine bars, but that doesn't mean there's nowhere in the city for you to enjoy a glass (or two...).

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Julie

This wine bar in the Gamla Väster neighbourhood – Malmö’s old town – specialises in natural wines, always offering at least 16 still wines, alongside other specialty wines like pet nats, champagne and sherry.

They offer wines by the bottle, with a smaller number of wines available by the glass, with seasonal alcohol-free options available. Food-wise, they do cheese and charcuterie alongside small plates based on locally produced ingredients – look out for their supper clubs with local chefs.

They don’t take reservations with exceptions for special events, like supper clubs, wine tastings or similar.

Although it has the feel of a specialty wine shop, Swedish alcohol laws mean that Julie can’t sell bottles for you to take home, so you’ll have to enjoy their wines on-site. Luckily, you can take home their cheeses and charcuterie.

Prices vary widely depending on the wine. Glasses start at around 65 kronor with food costing around 150-450 kronor.

Address: Tegelgårdsgatan 9

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-10pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Freja

Freja is a cafe and wine bar in the upmarket Davidshall neighbourhood just off the main shopping street. It opens at 9am (alcohol served from 11am), making it a great place for coffee and breakfast, lunch, or dinner and wine in the evening.

During the warmer months, they have an outdoor serving area on the Davidshall square.

They offer a handful of wines by the glass – reds, whites, orange and rosé, many of which are natural wines – with more on offer by the bottle. 

In terms of food, they do simple small plates, such as focaccia with burrata, mortadella and pistachio pesto, filled almond croissants or avocado toast with Danish Vesterhav cheese. Owner Agnes Hansson’s family own a farm around 40 kilometres east of Malmö in Skåne, where much of the cafe’s produce comes from.

Expect to pay between 80 and 160 kronor for a small plate, slightly less for snacks or desserts.

Address: Davidshallstorg 9

Opening hours: Tues 9am-4pm, Weds-Thurs 9am-9pm, Friday 9am-11pm, Saturday 9am-9pm, Sunday 9am-4pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Aster

This hip wine bar in Varvsstaden in Västra Hamnen may be more well known for its seasonal cocktails and natural wines – many of which are European – but it’s worth a trip for the food, too.

Aster won three awards at the Malmö Gastronomy Awards when it opened in 2021, and it’s easy to see why. There’s a wood-fired oven and grill in the open kitchen, with ingredients often sourced from the restaurant’s own garden.

The menu changes seasonally, and at the time of writing it included dishes such as smoked lamb ribs with kimchi and homegrown veg, grilled halibut with greens served with a white wine and crayfish sauce, as well as veggie dishes with grilled pumpkin, cannellini beans and oyster mushroom.

Expect to pay around 50-100 kronor for nibbles, 150-195 kronor for small dishes, 275-300 kronor for large plates (or 995 kronor for an 800g dry aged sirloin steak). Desserts 75-115 kronor.

Address: Jagaregatan 6

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11:30pm, Friday noon-midnight, Saturday 4pm-midnight

 
 
 
 
 
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Far i Hatten

This charming little restaurant in the middle of Folkets Park started life as a park restaurant with an outdoor dance floor in the late 1800s. 

It’s a strange place in some ways – it’s the perfect place to go for pizza and ice cream with children during the day, situated right next to a huge playground, but at night it transforms into a bustling bar and nightclub with a surprisingly long wine list.

Again, they have a long list of natural wines on offer, but there’s so much to choose from that you’re sure to find something you like no matter your tastes.

The dance floor is still very much in use, too – Far i Hatten hosts regular events and concerts, both for children during the day and for adults later on towards the evening.

Address: Folkets Park 2, Amiralsgatan 35

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11pm, Fri 4pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-8am

 
 
 
 
 
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MJ’s

MJ’s is technically a hotel (it was even crowned Sweden’s Leading Boutique Hotel for 2024), but they have a gorgeous covered indoor courtyard where you can enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner along with a glass of wine from their 11-page wine menu. 

This is sorted not only by type of wine (red, white, rosé, champagne, rosé champagne, cremant and pet nats), but also by country, with organic wines, natural wines, and skin contact wines all marked on the menu.

You can enjoy their wines alongside simple snacks – olives and almonds or a small cheese or charcuterie board – or larger dishes like beef tartare, asparagus with lumpfish roe or haddock sashimi. They also have a number of vegetarian options.

They also have a bar area (The Lobby Bar) which do cocktails and DJ sets on the weekend, and a speakeasy bar (Lillies) open on Friday and Saturday nights. 

Address: Mäster Johansgatan 13 (entrance to Lillies on Isak Slaktaregatan 5)

Opening hours: Restaurant: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-1:30pm, Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. Saturdays 1pm-10pm, Sundays noon-3pm. Lillies: Fri-Sat 8pm-1am

 
 
 
 
 
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