Rows of stalls packed with seasonable vegetables, delicious meats, cheeses, pastries and wine – French markets are a great way to sample the French lifestyle at its best.

Here’s a list of things to know to help you navigate them like an expert. 

A hundred new markets are created in France every year

Approximately one hundred new markets are born every year in France with communities using them to revitalise city centres, according to a 2016 survey.

And while there was a period of time when consumers were being lured away by big supermarkets, the popularity of traditional markets is once again on the rise, especially for bio (organic) markets.

As of 2020, over half of French people (54 percent) reported that they remain loyal customers at their local markets.

There are lots (and lots) of them

As of 2021, there were over 10,700 food markets (both covered and uncovered) in France. So you are never really that far from one if you do your research.

One might assume that markets are more common in rural areas, but French cities tend to offer several markets across different districts and most neighbourhood will have at least one market day a week, often several.

You won’t get everything in one place 

Of course, French markets are wonderful but they aren’t convenience stores where you can get it all in one go. And that is one of the reasons they’re so attractive, after all. 

At most markets, especially the best ones, speciality food from the local area will be on sale so go with an open mind about what you’re having for dinner that night. 

They’re also very seasonal – during summer you’ll find multiple stalls selling soft fruit while in the autumn it will be mushrooms as far as the eye can see – use this as a guide for your menu planning.

When to arrive 

The stalls usually open from 8am-9am in the morning and if you’re driving, the earlier you arrive the more likely you are to get a good parking spot.

But as the morning wears on the market will get more lively so you might find you want to stick around for a few hours. You might notice that the market remains for many French people, especially those of an older generation, a time in the morning to socialise and catch up with their neighbours.

Most markets close from around lunchtime or the early afternoon, although opening times vary, but don’t rely on it being open in the afternoon.

Sunday is (sometimes) a day of rest…and Monday might be too

It’s not a hard and fast rule but food markets don’t always happen on a Sunday. 

This was originally down to religious reasons but even as people go to church less and less, it has remained a tradition.

For others, Monday might be the day off so if you’re relying on markets to eat, it may be wise to stock up on enough food to last you from Saturday until Tuesday.

Don’t haggle 

A French market isn’t really the setting for a good haggle, with prices already set. 

And it’s a good idea to bring as many small notes and change as you can — paying with the right money will be appreciated (although plenty of stallholders will also accept cards). 

Market halls vs. outdoor markets 

There is a distinction between the markets that take place in covered halls and those that happen outside. While indoor markets are often open every weekday, outdoor markets usually happen two or three times a week, depending on the size of the village, town or city. 

Follow the locals 

Don’t be put off by a big crowd around a stall, this probably means the quality of the produce is top notch. Especially if the crowd is mostly made up of locals. 

Seasonal timetables

One of the reasons it can be hard to keep track of when and where the markets are taking place is that some will only happen at certain times of the year…which brings us on to our next point…

Check online

The most reliable source to get practical information about markets is still the town hall itself (or the town’s website).

That’s because it’s the mayor and the City Council who have jurisdiction over the organisation of the markets.

But French markets have caught up with the times and you’ll also find an interactive map on several sites such as jours-de-marché.fr or marchédefrance.org.

There are of course one-off markets as well such as Christmas markets or Easter events, as well as semi-regular organic market or arts and crafts markets. Again, these will probably be listed on the mairie website.

There are also regular sales of non-food items such as brocantes (vintage sales usually of furniture and household items) and vide-greniers (car boot sales or yard sales or second-hand items).

Vide grenier and brocante – the written and unwritten rules of France’s second-hand markets

They can be difficult to navigate…even once you’ve arrived

French markets can be happen on a large scale so it’s usually a good idea to plan your route around them, if possible.

Look at how people are moving through them and see if it’s a case of navigating a series of small alleys or moving around public square. Either way, keep in mind the essentials you are looking to buy.

There are lots of good reasons to visit them

Choosing to shop at food markets in France rather than getting everything from a supermarket gives you the chance to eat fresh, seasonal produce, contribute to the local economy and learn a bit more about what you’re buying and where it comes from.

It’s also a way to take back control of what you eat because if you cook you’re own food from ingredients bought from a farmer down the road, you don’t have to worry about what else might have gone in there like you do with pre-prepared food.

And once you become a familiar face, it’s a chance to do your shopping with a bit of socialising thrown in.