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FOOD AND DRINK

The six best French winter dishes made with cheese

As the temperatures drop we can start tucking into winter food - which in France often means very hearty dishes made with melted cheese.

A couple share a fondue in France
Beat the winter blues with a fondue. Photo: Stefan Wermuth/AFP

France has a whole host of winter classics of course, from southern speciality cassoulet to a warming boeuf bourguignon to the Alsace classic Backoeffe.

But the very best winter dishes in France involve the country’s second most famous product – cheese.  (Warning, you might need to do a day’s skiing or at least a session down the gym to justify these calorific delights.)

1. Fondue

Let’s start with the daddy of cheese dishes – fondue. An Alpine delicacy that is also very popular in Switzerland, it’s found particularly in eastern France in the Savoie region.

It’s easy to make, delicious and the best way to refuel after a long day on the slopes. Pick from a variety of cheeses including Comté, Beaufort, Emmental, Appenzell or Gruyere.  Beware though – some French people get quite prescriptive over the type of cheese you can use, as The Local’s Europe editor Ben McPartland discovered.

It is served with bread.

The recommended accompaniment is white wine or in some places a vin jaune – indeed the old wives’ tale goes that it is dangerous to drink water with fondue or racelette as it causes the cheese to solidify and stick in your stomach. We’re not too sure about the science of this, but a nice crisp white wine certainly goes well with melted cheese.

Once you’ve waded you way through the melted cheese you get to the best bit – the crispy scrapings on the bottom of the pot, which in France are known as la religeuse

2. Tartiflette

Another one from Savoie, where they have a real way with cheese (and some long hard winters that demand plenty of warming food).

Tartiflette is a baked gratin of potatoes, onions and bacon with Reblochon cheese. It’s extremely hearty so make sure you work up a good appetite before tackling this – it’s traditional as an après-ski dinner.

3. Aligot

Mashed potatoes are one of the human race’s better creations, but the French go one better and add melted cheese to theirs to create Aligot.

A speciality of the Aubrac region in the Massif Central, it’s made from mashed potatoes with cream, cheese, butter and garlic, all blended together until perfectly smooth. Cheese from the region is normally used, such as Tomme d’Auvergne or Tomme de Laguiole but other cheeses work as well. If possible get one that goes stringy when heated to get the delightful sensation of stringy mash.

Often served with sausages, this is a common sight at winter fairs and fêtes through central and southern France.

A proper aligot is stretchy, and in fact there are competitions for the stretchiest aligot – the current record is for a string 6.2 metres long, as the below video shows. 

4. Onion soup

If you feel like you’re about to have a heart attack at the sound of some of these dishes, a slightly lighter option is the classic French onion soup, which is topped with a slice of bread and plenty of grated cheese.

The soup is a delicious winter warmer and the cheese just makes it better. In some places they stir in the grated cheese, in others the cheese topped crouton is toasted to make a little gratin on top.

5. Gratin dauphinois

Speaking of gratin, this very hearty potato dish sometimes qualifies.

Traditionally made with potatoes, milk and cream, it’s possible to add cheese for a gratinated top. It’s usually served as a side dish, often accompanying lamb, but if you add the cheese it becomes a meal in its own right.

6. Raclette

Controversial addition this, as it’s originally Swiss, not French. But it’s very widely eaten in France, so you will certainly encounter it, particularly in the eastern part of country. Also it’s delicious, so why wouldn’t we include it?

The name refers to both the cheese and the dish, which varies from place to place but is generally cold meats, potatoes and pickles topped with the melted raclette. You can buy a special raclette pan for your home if you feel your arteries can take it, otherwise just melt it under the grill.

READ ALSO Rules of raclette: How to make one of France’s most popular cheese classics 

Member comments

  1. It’s Gratin Dauphinois (Masc) not Dauphinoise. Also for the purists, the Gratin Dauphinois does not have Cheese whereas the Gratin Savoyard does–although the French do tend to still call it Dauphinois, especially if they do not live in those areas. 55 years later and at the other end of the world and I still miss my Dad’s (Dauphinois) and my Mom’s (Savoyard). A very simple dish yet so good!

  2. Now wait just a minute here!! Fondu doesn’t just have cheese, it also has Kirch and white wine in it!! Without which it becomes abit indigestible

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FOOD AND DRINK

Did Austria really invent France’s iconic croissant?

It's often said that Austria in fact invented the croissant - and some even claim that Marie Antoinette brought it to France - but the real story is a little more complicated than that.

Did Austria really invent France's iconic croissant?

The croissant is probably the food product most closely associated with France (tied with the baguette) but is it even French? Well, it depends on how you look at it.

The French croissant is usually credited to a couple of Austrian migrants – August Zang and Ernest Schwartzer, who opened a bakery in Paris in the 1830s. They specialised in the pastries and cakes of their homeland and are generally agreed to have popularised the kipferl in France.

Listen to the team from The Local discussing croissants in the latest episode of the Talking France podcast. Listen here or on the link below

The kipferl shows up in records in Austria at least as early as the 13th century, so it definitely pre-dates the croissant.

In the 1800s the French went crazy for Austrian pastries, which is why we talk about viennoiseries (referencing Austrian capital Vienna) to refer to breakfast pastries such as croissants, pain au chocolat and pain au raisin.

But is a kipferl a croissant? The original recipe called for the roll to be made of bread, not pastry, and modern recipes call for a light yeast dough, often scented with vanilla.

Delicious, undoubtedly, but a croissaint . . .

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy created a recipe using puff pastry instead.

His instructions specified that the croissant be made of rolled puff pastry, laminated with butter to create layers – and this is how modern day croissants are made.

The pastry layers are what creates the distinctive crumb-scattering deliciousness that is a croissant.

So did the Austrians invent the croissant or did they just invent a curved bread roll? Or should France and Austria share the credit and chalk this one up to another great success from international cooperation?

One thing that is certainly French is the name – croissant in French simply means ‘crescent’ and refers to the shape of the breakfast pastry.

It’s used in other contexts too – for example Le Mouvement international de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge – is how the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is referred to in French.

And Marie Antoinette?

This historical rumour is almost certainly rubbish.

Although Marie Antoinette was indeed Austrian, the first record of the croissant does not appear in Paris until at least 40 years after her death and the two Austrian bakers credited with introducing the croissant weren’t even born when she met her end on the guillotine in 1793.

Also, she never said ‘let them eat cake’.

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