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LIVING IN FRANCE

Daily dilemma: What do you order in France steak tartare or entrecôte?

It's fair to say that meat plays an important part in French cuisine, and vegetarians often find themselves something of an afterthought.

Published: 25 July 2019 16:02 CEST
Daily dilemma: What do you order in France steak tartare or entrecôte?

So we've raised the steaks (sorry) in today's daily dilemma – do our readers prefer a classic Entrecôte or steak tartare?

It turned out to be one of our highest voting polls, proving that readers of The Local appreciate a good butcher, but in the end there was a clear winner.

 

Despite the win, the steak tartare earned itself plenty of support in the comments.

Elisha Anderson said: “Cooked steak frites is my go-to, but I’m always up for a fabulous tartare!”

While Jules Morrison added: “Both are good but a slight lead for the werewolf chow.”

Despite its huge popularity in France, steak tartare is not actually French in origin.

It was introduced throughout Europe in the 17th century by Russian ships and is thought to come originally from the area covered by modern day Mongolia (hence the name tartare or Tartar).

In the early twentieth century it was more commonly known as steack a l'americaine before settling on its current title.

A classic steak tartare involves very fresh finely chopped beef served with onions, capers, pepper and other seasonings (often Worcestershire sauce) with a raw egg yolk on top.

Such is its popularity that the word tartare is often now used to simply mean anything raw, and tuna tartare or sea bass tartare and now frequently seen on menus.

READ ALSO From crêpes to cassoulet – the ultimate food map of France

Entrecote is hugely popular in France, so much so that there's a chain of restaurants called L'Entrecote which serve nothing but steak (with chips). Queues can frequently be found outside.

A traditional entrecote is the cut of meat from around the rib area of the cow, usually translated as rib or ribeye in English.

Entrecote frites is one of the most-ordered dishes in French restaurants and the French themselves tend to like it quite lightly cooked.

As one reader complained on our Facebook site “entrecote and tartare are basically the same thing in France”.

That's not quite true but French chefs do prefer to send out their steaks with a little blood still oozing from the middle and there are tales of chefs refusing to 'murder' their meat by preparing it bien cuit (well done).

They're probably increasingly in a minority though – really good quality meat does not need a lot of cooking and will have more flavour if it's bleu (very rare) saignant (rare) or à point (medium rare) but if you really can't stand the sight of blood then order it how you like it. 

READ ALSO The things you should never do when dining in France

 

 

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SCHOOLS

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

School children in France are entitled to a lunchtime meal of three, or even four courses – but what if you prefer to provide meals yourself? 

Published: 22 May 2024 12:24 CEST
Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

French school meals are, famously, pretty good – children get a three or even four-course meal of properly prepared dishes and the menu (including cheese course) is usually published in the local town newsletter so everyone can see the types of meals being served.

The concept of a proper meal at lunchtime is an important one. “The diet of a school-age child is essential for their growth, mental development and learning abilities,” the French Education Ministry says in a preamble about school meals on its website. “It must be balanced, varied and distributed throughout the day: for example 20 percent of total energy in the morning, 40 percent at midday, 10 percent at four o’clock and 30 percent in the evening.”

And it’s not all about nutrition, the social aspect of sitting together and eating a meal is also important – the ministry continues: “Mealtime is an opportunity for students to relax and communicate. It should also be a time for discovery and enjoyment.”

All schools provide meals in a canteen and most pupils take up the opportunity – however it’s also possible for pupils to go home at lunchtime so that they can eat lunch with their parents.

The idea of taking in a packed lunch (panier-repas) is much less common in France – but is it actually banned?

The rules on lunch

At écoles (up to age 11), the local authority or établissement public de coopération intercommunale (EPCI) is responsible for providing quality school meals. This generally involves meals being provided via a central kitchen, and then delivered to the school’s kitchen, where it can be kept warm, or reheated as necessary.

The system is slightly different in collèges and lycées (attended by children aged 11 and up). In those establishments, catering falls into the purview of the wider département or region – and is routinely managed directly by individual establishments, which will have catering staff on site to prepare meals. Often, meal services are outsourced to private businesses, which operate the kitchens.

There are various rules and regulations in place regarding what food is offered, and how long a child has to eat – which is, in part, why the school lunch period is so long. Children must be allowed a 30-minute period to eat their meal, from the moment they sit down with it at the table. 

Then, they’re given time to play and relax before afternoon classes start.

READ ALSO What you need to know if your child is starting school in France

At a minimum lunch must include a main course with a side dish, a dairy-based product, as well as a starter and/or a dessert. Meals must also, the government says, be composed of 50 percent sustainable quality products (including 20 percent organic).

Some local authorities go further and serve only or mostly food that is organic, locally sourced or both.

Water and bread must be freely available, but salt and condiments can only be added in preparation – no sauce bottles or salt and pepper on the tables. 

Daily menus are generally available to view on school websites and many town newspapers or newsletters also publish them.

Parents pay a fee for the school lunch, which is calculated according to income and can be free in the case of low-income families.

Packed lunch

But what if your child doesn’t like the school lunches and you don’t have time to pick them up, cook a full lunch and take them back in the afternoon everyday? The obvious solution would seem to be to send them in with a packed lunch, as is common in the UK and USA.

In theory this is possible, but only in certain circumstances and with very strict rules and caveats. 

The Ministry, in a written response to a Senator’s question in 2019, said: “The use of packed lunches [home-supplied meals] by primary school students can provide an alternative to school meals. This method of catering is authorised in particular for children with a medically established food allergy or intolerance, requiring an adapted diet.”

READ ALSO How to enrol a non-French speaking child in school in France

It added: “the preparation and use of packed lunches in schools must follow certain rules. First of all, it is important to respect the cold chain”.

The cold chain is a term applied to food handling and distribution – it’s usually used by food-preparation businesses, but in the context of a packed lunch it means that food prepared at home must be kept in appropriately cool conditions until it is ready to eat. It would be the responsibility of parents to ensure that the food is delivered to school in containers appropriate for the job (ie an insulated cool bag).

Once at the school, it is up to whoever manages the kitchen to ensure that food is properly reheated. This becomes the sticking point at which many parents’ requests to send their children to school with a packed lunch, rather than go to the canteen, or eat back at home, are refused.

The reheating concern suggests that schools are also expecting parents to prepare a proper meal – rather than just throwing some sandwiches and a cereal bar into a bag.

Unless there’s a genuine and proven health reason for your child to eat a home-prepared meal, most parents will probably find the school won’t budge on this – even in cases of a strike by kitchen staff or lunch monitors.

READ ALSO Just how much do private schools in France cost?

The Ministry’s written response explains: “[A]s this is an optional public service, the municipality can justify its refusal to admit the children concerned by objective material and financial constraints, such as the need to equip itself with additional refrigerators, or for additional supervisory staff to supervise them during lunch.”

As well as the practicalities, for some schools this is an equality issue – because of the varied fee structure for school lunches what happens in effect is that richer parents are subsidising a good quality lunchtime meal for poorer students in the class; if everyone brought in a packed lunch and therefore stopped paying the fee, the lower-income kids would miss out. 

What about allergies or other health issues?

Children with allergies or other health issues that require a particular diet must be accommodated. An individual meal plan – known as a projet d’accueil individualisé (PAI) can be set up. More details (in French) are available here, on the government’s website.

It also becomes easier for parents to provide home-produced meals in such instances. As ever, it is up to the parents to ensure any meals are appropriately packaged and transported to school.

Not all schools

Some individual schools in France do permit pupils to bring in meals from home. They must be taken to school in an appropriate cold-storage container, and they will be stored in the kitchen area until they are needed, when meals will – if necessary – be reheated.

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